Tekstilec, letn. 57, 2014, št. 4

 

VSEBINA

 

ZNANSTVENI ČLANKI

264      Koeficient elastične učinkovitosti in elastični povratek modificirane poliester/polivinil alkoholne
………..prstanske preje • Pawan Kumar, Sujit Kumar Sinha and Subrata Ghosh Izvleček in reference

Department of Textile Technology, National Institute of Technology, Jalandhar-144011, Punjab, India

Izvirni znanstveni članek

Prispelo 10-2014 • Sprejeto 11-2014

Korespondenčni avtor:

Dr. Sujit Kumar Sinha

E-pošta: sinhask@nitj.ac.in

 

Izvleček

Spremembe v strukturi preje odpirajo nove možnosti uporabe. V raziskavi smo strukturo prstanske preje iz mešanice vlaken poliester/polivinil alkohol (PVAL) modificirali z odtopitvijo PVAL-a, pri čemer so preje vsebovale različen odstotek PVAL vlaken. Elastični povratek in koeficient elastične učinkovitosti sta bila za primerjavo izmerjena pred in po odtapljanju PVAL-a. Da bi preučili učinek, smo spremenili tudi finočo vlaken in koeficient vitja. Za preučitev elastičnega povratka so bili poizkusi izvedeni pri 2- in 4-odstotnem raztezku, medtem ko je bil koeficient elastične učinkovitosti izračunan pri uporabi 30 % in 50 % pretržne obremenitve prej. Rezultati t-testa so potrdili znatne razlike v koeficientu elastične učinkovitosti in elastičnem povratku prej, ki so bile modificirane z odstranitvijo PVAL-a. Ugotovljeno je bilo tudi, da finoča vlaken ter koeficient vitja vplivata na elastično obnašanje prej. Modificirane preje so imele izboljšane vrednosti elastičnega povratka.

Ključne besede: elastični povratek, koeficient elastične učinkovitosti, poliesterna in PVAL vlakna, prstanska preja

 

Viri

  1. Structural mechanics of fibres, yarns and fabrics. Edited by J. W. S. Hearle, Grosberg, P., Backer, Stanley. New York : John Wiley and Sons Inc., 1969, 175−207.
  2. PLATT, M. Milton. Mechanics of elastic performance of textile materials. Textile Research Journal, 1950, 20(1), 1‒15.
  3. The structure of yarn. Edited by Witold Žurek. Warsaw : Foreign scientific publications department of the national centre for scientific, technical and economic information, 1975, 175‒178.
  4. SUSICH, George, BACKER, Stanley. Tensile recovery behaviour of textile fibers. Textile Research Journal, 1951, 21(7), 482‒509, doi: 10.1177/004051755102100704.
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  6. HAMBURGER, J. Walter. Mechanics of elastic performance of textile materials: Part I. Development of an elastic performance coefficient in tension. Textile Research Journal, 1948, 18(2), 102‒113, doi: 10.1177/004051754801800204.
  7. HAMBURGER, J. Walter. Mechanics of elastic performance of textile materials: Part II The application of sonic techniques to the investigation of the effect of viscoelastic behaviour upon stress-strain relationship in certain high polymers. Textile research Journal, 1948, 18(12), 705‒743, doi: 10.1177/004051754801801201.
  8. SETT, S. K., MUKHERJEE, A., SUR, D. Tensile characteristics of rotor and friction spun jute blended yarn. Textile Research Journal, 2000, 70(8), 723‒728, doi: 10.1177/004051750007000810.
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  11. TYAGI, G. K., SHARMA, Dhirendra. Performance and low-stress characteristics of polyester-cotton MVS yarns. Indian Journal of Fibre and Textile Research, 29, 2004, 301‒307.
  12. TYAGI, G. K., GOYAL, A., SINGH, A. Effect of add-on finish and process variables on recovery properties of jet-spun polyester yarns. Indian Journal of Fibre and Textile Research, 2004, 29, 44‒48.
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  14. TYAGI, G. K., GOYAL, A., Chattopadhyay, R. Low stress and recovery characteristics of tencel blended ring, rotor and MJS yarns. Indian Journal of Fibre and Textile Research, 2013, 38, 331‒339.
  15. MANICH, M. Albert, DE CASTELLER, M. D. Elastic recovery and inverse relaxation of polyester staple fibre rotor spun yarns. Textile Research Journal, 1992, 62(4), 196‒200, doi: 10.1177/004051759206200403.
  16. Standard test method for elastic properties of textile fibres. ASTM, 1774‒94, 455‒459.
  17. HAMBURGER, J. Walter, PLATT, M. Milton, MORGAN, M. Henry. Mechanics of elastic performance of textile materials: Part X Some aspects of elastic behaviour at low strains. Textile Research Journal, 1952, 22(11), 695‒725, doi: 10.1177/004051755202201101.
  18. PLATT, M. Milton. Mechanics of elastic performance of textile materials: Part IV Some aspects of stress analysis of textile structures-staple fibre yarns. Textile Research Journal, 1950, 20(8), 518‒538, doi: 10.1177/004051755002000801.
  19. PLATT, M. Milton. Mechanics of elastic performance of textile materials: Part VI Influence of twist on modulus of elasticity. Textile Research Journal, 1950, 20(10), 665‒667, doi: 10.1177/004051755002001001.
  20. HAMBURGER, J. Walter, PLATT, M. Milton. An engineering approach to the analysis and design of textile structures. Journal of the Textile Institute, 1953, 44(8), 475‒512, doi: 10.1080/19447015308687858.

 


 

273      Oblikovanje superhidrofobne in oleofobne bombažne tkanine, pobarvane z reaktivnimi barvili
………..• Marija Gorjanc, Brigita Tomšič, Tina Mandelj, Rahela Kurent, Kristina Zdovc, Katarina Drevenšek,
………..Nina Pajsar, Mateja Kert in Barbara Simončič  Izvleček in reference

Univerza v Ljubljani, Naravoslovnotehniška fakulteta, Oddelek za tekstilstvo, Snežniška 5, 1000 Ljubljana

Izvirni znanstveni članek

Prispelo 9-2014 • Sprejeto 10-2014

Korespondenčna avtorica:

Prof. dr. Barbara Simončič

E-pošta: barbara.simoncic@ntf.uni-lj.si

 

 

Izvleček

V raziskavi je bil proučevan vpliv barvanja s tremi reaktivnimi barvili Avitera SE (rumeno, rdeče in modro) na funkcionalne lastnosti bombažnih tkanin, apretiranih z nanodelci SiO2, vodo- in oljeodbojno apreturo (FAS) ter kombinacijo obeh (SiO2 + FAS). Hkrati je bil proučevan tudi vpliv nanesenih apretur na spremembo barve barvanih vzorcev. Prisotnost različnih apretur smo proučevali z vrstično elektronsko mikroskopijo (SEM) in infrardečo spektroskopijo s Fourierjevo transformacijo (FTIR). Vodo- in oljeodbojnost nebarvanih in barvanih apretiranih vzorcev pred pranjem in po njem smo določili z meritvami statičnih stičnih kotov vode in n-heksadekana, kotov zdrsa vode in z ocenami oljeodbojnosti (AATCC 118-1966 T). Barvne lastnosti vzorcev so bile proučevane pred nanosom apretur in po njem, po pranju in dvainsedemdeseturnem osvetljevanju. Prisotnost apreture je bila potrjena tako z rezultati FTIR kot SEM-analize. Superhidrofobne lastnosti so bile dosežene na vseh apretiranih vzorcih in se zaradi predhodnega barvanja niso poslabšale. Kljub nanosu nanodelcev SiO2 vzorci niso izkazali samočistilnih lastnosti. Nanos vseh apretur je zagotovil oljeodbojnost vzorcev, ki se je na predhodno barvanih vzorcih celo rahlo povečala. Apreture so bile dobro pralno obstojne. Prisotnost apretur je močno vplivala na barvo vzorcev, ne glede na to, ali so bili barvani ali ne. Apretura FAS je povzročila potemnitev in porumenitev vzorcev, medtem ko je apretura SiO2 vplivala na spremembo barve na modro, rumeno oziroma rdečo. Iz rezultatov barvnih sprememb smo opazili, da so imeli apretirani barvani vzorci zelo slabo barvno obstojnost na osvetljevanje.

Ključne besede: reaktivna barvila, nanodelci SiO2, FAS, sol-gel, lotusov efekt, oljeodbojnost

 

Viri 

  1. SONG, Junlong, ROJAS, Orlando Jose. Approaching super-hydrophobicity from cellulosic materials: A Review. Nordic pulp & paper research journal, 2013, 28(2), 216-238, doi: 10.3183/NPPRJ-2013-28-02-p216-238.
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  10. VASILJEVIĆ, Jelena, GORJANC, Marija, TOMŠIČ, Brigita, OREL, Boris, JERMAN, Ivan, MOZETIČ, Miran, VESEL, Alenka, SIMONČIČ, Barbara. The surface modification of cellulose fibres to create super-hydrophobic, oleophobic and self-cleaning properties. Cellulose, 2013, 20(1), 277-289, doi: 10.1007/s10570-012-9812-3.
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  12. OREL, Boris, JERMAN, Ivan, VILČNIK, Andrej, TOMŠIČ, Brigita, SIMONČIČ, Barbara. Sol-gel postopki kot izziv pri proizvodnji tekstilij = Sol-gel processes as a challenge in textile production. V Zbornik prispevkov : 38. simpozij o novostih v tekstilstvu in 3. simpozij o novostih v grafiki, Ljubljana, 21. junij 2007. SIMONČIČ, Barbara (ur.), HLADNIK, Aleš (ur.), JAVORŠEK, Dejana (ur.). Ljubljana : Naravoslovnotehniška fakulteta, Oddelek za tekstilstvo, 2007, str. 3–15.
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283      Vpliv protimikrobne apreture na barvo in barvno obstojnost tekstilij iz naravnih vlaken
………..• Eva Ilec1, Aleš Hladnik2 in Barbara SimončičIzvleček in reference

1Pokrajinski muzej Ptuj-Ormož, Muzejski trg 1, 2250 Ptuj

2Univerza v Ljubljani, Naravoslovnotehniška fakulteta, Oddelek za tekstilstvo, Snežniška 5, 1000 Ljubljana

Izvirni znanstveni članek

Prispelo 9-2014 • Sprejeto 10-2014

Korespondenčna avtorica:

Prof. dr. Barbara Simončič

E-pošta: barbara.simoncic@ntf.uni-lj.si

 

Izvleček

Namen raziskave je bil proučiti vpliv prisotnosti protimikrobne apreture sol-gel na podlagi dimetil-tetradecil-[3-(trimetoksisilil)-propil] amonijevega klorida (Si-QAC ) na barvo in barvne obstojnosti bombažne (CO), svilene (SE) in volnene (WO) tkanine, ki se največkrat uporabljajo pri konserviranju-restavriranju zgodovinskih tekstilij. Tkanina CO je bila pobarvana z direktnimi in reaktivnimi barvili ter indigom, tkanina SE s kovinsko kompleksnimi barvili in tkanina WO s kislimi barvili. Uporabljeni so bili rumeni, rdeči in modri barvni toni. Sredstvo Si-QAC je bilo naneseno v dveh naraščajočih koncentracijah. Pobarvani neapretirani in apretirani vzorci tkanin CO, SE in WO so bili umetno osvetljevani v aparatu Xenotest in večkrat zaporedno oprani v Launder-Ometru. Med osvetljevanimi in neosvetljevanimi ter pranimi in nepranimi vzorci so bile določene barvne razlike, ki so bile pozneje statistično obdelane z multifaktorsko analizo variance ANOVA. Iz rezultatov meritev je razvidno, da je prisotnost apreture vplivala na spremembo barve vseh pobarvanih vzorcev. Prisotnost apreture je statistično značilno poslabšala svetlobne obstojnosti obarvanj, ni pa statistično značilno vplivala na pralne obstojnosti obarvanj. Barvne obstojnosti so bile v veliki meri odvisne od strukture barvila.

Ključne besede: naravna vlakna, protimikrobna apretura, vpliv apreture na barvo, pralna obstojnost obarvanj, svetlobna obstojnost obarvanj

 

Viri

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300      Pregled računalniških modelov za simulacijo tekstilij • Simona Jevšnik1, Fatma Kalaoğlu1,
………..Sena Terliksiz1 and Jure Purgaj2 Izvleček in reference

1Istanbul Technical University, Textile Technologies and Design Faculty, Istanbul, Inon. Cad. No. 65, 34437, Turkey
2Pädagogische Hochschule Wien, Institut für Berufsbildung, Mode- und Designpädagogik, Grenzakcerstraße 18, A-1100 Wien, Austria

Pregledni znanstveni članek

Prispelo 10-2014 • Sprejeto 11-2014

Korespondenčna autorica:

Izr. prof. dr. Simona Jevšnik

E-pošta: simonajevsnik@gmail.com

 

Izvleček

Računalniške 3D tehnologije so čedalje bolj prisotne na različnih tekstilnih področjih, od konstruiranja in izdelave tkanin in oblačil, virtualne predstavitve človeškega telesa, interaktivnega virtualnega prototipiranja, do virtualnih modnih revij in e-trgovanja. Prispevek podaja pregled pogosteje uporabljenih računalniških metod za simulacijo tekstilij. Razdeljen je na dva dela: v prvem je opisano trenutno stanje uporabe računalniških modelov za simulacijo tekstilij, temu sledi razlaga osnovnih pojmov in potrebnih parametrov za njihovo simulacijo. V drugem delu so predstavljeni pristopi in metode za njihovo izgradnjo. V zaključkih je podan pregled najznačilnejših uporabljenih tehnik in parametrov, potrebnih za definiranje računalniških modelov tekstilij ter smernice nadaljnjega razvoja.

Ključne besede: CAD/CAM v tekstilstvu, simulacije tekstilij, modeli tekstilij

 

Viri

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315      Primerjalna ocena dinamičnih mehanskih lastnosti epoksi kompozitov, ojačenih s tkaninami iz vlaken
………..sansevierije (Sansevieria trifasciata) in bananovca (Musa sapientum) • Samson Rwawiire1,2,
………..Joe Okello1 and Godfrey Habbi1 Izvleček in reference

1Busitema University, Uganda, Faculty of Engineering, Department of Textile and Ginning Engineering, P. O. Box 236, Tororo, Busitema, Uganda
2Technical University of Liberec, Faculty of Textile Engineering, Department of Material Engineering, Studentská 2, 461 17 Liberec 1, Czech Republic

Izvirni znanstveni članek

Prispelo 10-2014 • Sprejeto 11-2014

Korespondenčni avtor:

Samson Rwawiire

E-pošta: rbsjunior@gmail.com

 

Izvleček

Trajnostni materiali, ki so okolju prijazni, in pot do trajnostnega razvoja sta potrebna v svetovnem merilu. Uporaba naravnih rastlinskih vlaken je doživela vzpon v različnih industrijah, še posebno v avtomobilski industriji. Naravna vlakna, kot so vlakna sansevierije in iz navideznega stebla bananovcev, so nam na voljo in imajo dobre mehanske lastnosti, ki jih uvrščajo med kandidate za ojačitev epoksi smol. Predstavljene so dinamične mehanske lastnosti epoksi kompozitov, ojačenih z vlakni sansevierije (Sansevierija trifasciata) in bananovca (Musa sapientum). Na podlagi rezultatov je bilo ugotovljeno, da je optimalna temperatura uporabe epoksi kompozitov, ojačenih s tkaninami iz vlaken sansivierije oziroma vlaken bananovca, do 50 °C. Temperatura steklastega prehoda, Tg, odčitana iz krivulje faktorja mehanskega dušenja (tan δ), je bila 100 °C za epoksi kompozit ojačen s tkanino iz vlaken sansevierije oziroma 120 °C za epoksi kompozit ojačen s tkanino iz vlaken bananovca.

Ključne besede: DMA, Sansevierija trifasciata, vlakna bananovca, Musa sapientum, epoksi kompozit

 

Viri

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321      Oblačila in kostumi kot oblika neverbalne komunikacije Todorović Tijana1, Toporišič Tomaž2 and
………..Alenka Pavko Čuden1 Izvleček in reference

1University of Ljubljana, Faculty of Natural Sciences and Engineering, Department of Textiles, Snežniška ulica 5, 1000 Ljubljana
2University of Primorska, Faculty of Humanities, Titov trg 5, 6000 Koper

Pregledni znanstveni članek

Prispelo 08-2014 • Sprejeto 11-2014

Korespondenčna avtorica:

Tijana Todorović

Tel. 00 386 41 530 780

E-pošta: tijanaart@gmail.com

 

Izvleček

Oblačila so neločljiv del človeškega telesa. Povezovanje med umetnostjo in oblačili združuje duhovno in socialno naravo človekovega vedenja, kakor tudi ustvarja metafore in simbolna razmerja v človekovem okolju. Namen takšnega sintetičnega pogleda je pomoč pri razumevanju posameznikovih notranjih svetov. Telo je naša edina podpora in zavetje, na katero se lahko posameznik (ali človeštvo) zanese. Prek oblačil naredi človek prvi korak k neverbalni komunikaciji s svetom, saj oblačila ne kažejo le naše podobe, ampak tudi naš notranji svet. Oblačilo nam pomaga biti opažen. Skozi oblačila vzpostavimo komunikacijo z drugimi osebami, izražamo sprejetje, zavrnitev ali naše družbeno stališče v odnosu do nečesa ljubeznivega, družabnega, moralnega itn. Oblačenje si lahko razlagamo kot prenos informacij med pošiljateljem in prejemnikom prek simbolnih sporočil tako na splošno kot na specifičnem področju kulture oblačenja. Prek takšne oblike odprte komunikacije si skozi način oblačenja ustvarimo individualnost. Sporočila in informacije o nas so vizualno poslani in sprejeti.

Ključne besede: oblačilo in njegov pomen, kultura, subkultura, modno oblačenje, komunikacija, znaki pripadnosti, oblika, funkcija, oblačenje in semiotika

 

Viri

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PRILOGA

334     Praktično usposabljanje študentov Proizvodnje tekstilij in oblačil v Ljubljani
………..v študijskem letu 2013/2014 • Mirjam Leskovšek

335     Praktično usposabljanje študentov na Oddelku za tekstilne materiale in oblikovanje v Mariboru
………..v študijskem letu 2013/2014 • Igor Nahtigal

336     Diplomska, magistrska in doktorska dela s področja tekstilstva in oblikovanja tekstilij in oblačil
………..v študijskem letu 2013/2014

340     Izvlečki iz magistrskih del v študijskem letu 2013/2014

347     Masters Theses Abstracts in the Study Year 2013/2014

354     Izvlečki iz doktorskih del v letu 2014

358     Disertations Abstracts in the Year 2014

 

STROKOVNI DEL

363     Novo na knjižnih policah

364     Recenzija znanstvene monografije »Design of clothing manufacturing processes: a systematic
………..approach to planning, scheduling and control«  • Andrej Polajnar in Simona Jevšnik

365     Recenzija znanstvene monografije Tekstilne poti po ljubljanskih ulicah • Mojca Šorn

367     Recenzija univerzitetnega učbenika Reproduciranje barv in barvno upravljanje • Gorazd Golob

368     Konferenca

369     Koledar prireditev za leto 2015