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		<description><![CDATA[Tekstilec, Vol. 58, 2015(4)   CONTENTS &#160; SCIENTIFIC ARTICLES 262   Preliminary Study regarding the Effects of Different Soil Treatments on the Strength &#8230;&#8230;..of Canvas Material during the Soil Burial Test &#8230;&#8230;..Edison Omollo Oduor*, Josphat Igadwa Mwasiagi** and Fredrick Nzioka Mutua* 268   Characterization of Film for Medical Textiles Application &#8230;&#8230;..Himansu Shekhar Mohapatra*, Arobindo Chatterjee* and Pramod Kumar** 274   The Primary School Pupils’ Knowledge and Attitudes on Selected Textile Topics &#8230;&#8230;..Francka Lovšin Kozina 281   Information regarding Slovenian Textile, Clothing and Leather Production Companies &#8230;&#8230;..Urša Stankovič Elesini*, Špela Zakrajšek*, Estera Cerar**, Matija Marolt***, Primož Godec***, &#8230;&#8230;..Raša Urbas* 301   The Influence of a Surfactant’s Structure and the Mode of its Action during Reactive Wool Dyeing &#8230;&#8230;..Jelena Vasiljević, Barbara Simončič and Mateja Kert]]></description>
				<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Tekstilec, Vol. <strong>58</strong>, 2015(4)</p>
<p><strong> </strong></p>
<p><strong>CONTENTS</strong></p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p><strong>SCIENTIFIC ARTICLES</strong></p>
<p>262   <a href="http://www.tekstilec.si/wp-content/uploads/2015/12/262-267.pdf">Preliminary Study regarding the Effects of Different Soil Treatments on the Strength</a></p>
<p><span style="color: #ffffff;">&#8230;&#8230;..</span><a href="http://www.tekstilec.si/wp-content/uploads/2015/12/262-267.pdf">of Canvas Material during the Soil Burial Test</a></p>
<p><span style="color: #ffffff;">&#8230;&#8230;..</span>Edison Omollo Oduor*, Josphat Igadwa Mwasiagi** and Fredrick Nzioka Mutua* <span class="collapseomatic " id="id1952"  title="Abstract and References">Abstract and References</span><div id="target-id1952" class="collapseomatic_content ">
<p>*Technical University of Kenya, P. O. Box 52428 (00200), Nairobi, Kenya</p>
<p>**School of Engineering, Moi University, P. O. Box 3900 (30100), Eldoret, Kenya</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p>Original Scientific Article</p>
<p>Received 06-2015 • Accepted 10-2015</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p>Corresponding author:</p>
<p><strong>Edison Omollo Oduor</strong></p>
<p>Telephone: +254721857685</p>
<p>E-mail: <a href="mailto:edisonomollo@gmail.com">edisonomollo@gmail.com</a> ali <a href="mailto:igadwa@gmail.com">igadwa@gmail.com</a></p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p><strong>Abstract</strong></p>
<p>The durabilities of textile materials, which during their usages come into direct contact with soil, have traditionally been measured using the soil burial test (BS 6085: 1992). Using the aforementioned standard, coated textile materials are normally buried under standard soil conditions for 28 days, while non-coated textiles for 14 days and the deterioration assessed. The duration of this test is too long and it discourages many business people and manufacturers, to whom urgency is the key and therefore opt to skip this test. This study investigated the effects of different soil treatments on the strengths of canvas materials during the soil burial test. By adding cow manure, chicken manure and potato peelings with the controlled addition of water, the changes were investigated in the strengths of the canvas materials buried in the soils. The results obtained during this research work indicated that the addition of water (in a controlled manner) can lead to a change of 10% to 90% in the strengths of the buried canvas materials, according to the different types of manure. When considering the different types of manures (with water additions) there were strength losses of 70%, 80% and 90% for non-cultivated soil, soil with cow dung, and soil with chicken manure respectively. Similar trends were also recorded for strength losses in the weft direction. A strength reduction factor which considered the reductions in strengths of the canvas materials exposed the different treated soils compared to the non-treated soil (without water), indicating that chicken manure (with the addition of water) can produce a strength reduction factor of 8.32, whilst the non-cultivated soils (with the addition of water) gave a strength reduction factor of 6.</p>
<p><strong>Keywords: </strong>Soil burial test, canvas, microbial deterioration, soil cultivation</p>
<p><strong> </strong></p>
<p><strong>References</strong></p>
<ol>
<li>ELSHAFEI, Ali and EL-ZANFALY H. T. Application of antimicrobials in the development of textiles. <em>Asian Journal of Applied Science</em>, 2011, <strong>4</strong>, 585─595, doi: <a href="10.3923/ajaps.2011.585.595">10.3923/ajaps.2011.585.595</a>.</li>
<li>TOMŠIČ, Brigita, KLEMENČIČ, Danijela, SIMONČIČ, Barbara and OREL, Boris. Influence of antimicrobial finishes on the biodeterioration of cotton and cotton/polyester fabrics: leaching versus bio-barrier formation. <em>Polymer Degradation and Stability</em>, 2011, <strong>96</strong>(7), 1286─1296, doi:<a href="10.1016/j.polymdegradstab.2011.04.004">10.1016/j.polymdegradstab.2011.04.004</a>.</li>
<li><em>BS 6085 Methods for determination of the resistance of textiles to microbiological deterioration. British Standard Institute. London, 1992.</em></li>
<li>ISO 5081 Textiles – Woven fabrics &#8212; Determination of breaking strength and elongation (Strip method). <em>International Organisation for Standardization</em>, 1977.</li>
<li>Canvas [online], [accessed 11. 3. 2014]. Available on World Wide Web: &lt;<a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Canvas">http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Canvas</a>&gt;.</li>
<li>PELCZAR, Micheal Joseph, CHIN SUN CHAN, Eddie and KRIEG, Noel R. <em>Microbiology: Concepts and Applications</em>. 1st. ed. New York : McGraw-Hill, 1993.</li>
<li>Manure. [online], [accessed 11. 3. 2014]. Available on World Wide Web: &lt;<a href="http://www.wikipedia.com/manure">http://www.wikipedia.com/manure</a>&gt;.</li>
<li>CHANDRA, R. and RUSTGI, R. Biodegradable polymers. <em>Progress in Polymer Science</em>, 1998, <strong>23</strong>(7), 1273─1335, doi:<a href="10.1016/S0079-6700(97)00039-7">10.1016/S0079-6700(97)00039-7</a>.</li>
<li>COYNE, Mark S. Soil microbiology: An exploratory approach. Albany et al.: Delmar Publishers, 1999.</li>
<li>LATTER, P. M., BANCROFT, G and GILLESPIE, J. Technical aspects of the cotton strip assay in soils. <em>International Biodeterioration</em>, 1988,<strong> 24</strong>(1), 25─47, doi: <a href="10.1016/0265-3036(88)90073-5">10.1016/0265-3036(88)90073-5</a>.</li>
<li>Chicken manure. [online], [accessed 11. 3. 2014]. Available on World Wide Web: &lt;<a href="http://www.ctahr.hawaii.edu/oc/freepubs/pdf/GHGS-02.pdf">http://www.ctahr.hawaii.edu/oc/freepubs/pdf/GHGS-02.pdf</a>&gt;.</li>
<li>RUSCHMEYER, O. R. and SCHMIDT, E. L. Cellulose Decomposition in soil burial beds: II. Cellulolytic activity as influenced by alteration of soil properties. <em>Applied Microbiology</em>, 1958, <strong>6</strong>(2), 115.</li>
<li>CLARKE, Antony J. <em>Biodegradation of cellulose: enzymology and biotechnology</em>. Basel: Technomic Publishing, 1996.</li>
</ol>
<hr />
</div>
<p>268   <a href="http://www.tekstilec.si/wp-content/uploads/2015/12/268-273.pdf">Characterization of Film for Medical Textiles Application</a></p>
<p><span style="color: #ffffff;">&#8230;&#8230;..</span>Himansu Shekhar Mohapatra*, Arobindo Chatterjee* and Pramod Kumar** <span class="collapseomatic " id="id5130"  title="Abstract and References">Abstract and References</span><div id="target-id5130" class="collapseomatic_content ">
<p>*National Institute of Technology Jalandhar, Department of Textile Technology, Punjab 144011, India</p>
<p>**National Institute of Technology Jalandhar, Department of Mechanical Engineering, Punjab 144011, India</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p>Original Scientific Article</p>
<p>Received 05-2015 • Accepted 10-2015</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p>Corresponding author:</p>
<p><strong>Himansu Shekhar Mohapatra</strong></p>
<p>E-mail: <a href="mailto:himansu4@gmail.com">himansu4@gmail.com</a></p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p><strong>Abstract</strong></p>
<p>The presented research focuses on the development and characterization of film made from lime peel extracts; well-known for its anti-oxidant and antimicrobial properties. The study includes preparation of film using the solution casting technique and characterization tests including IR spectroscopy, X-ray diffraction, and thermal behaviour through differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) and through thermogravimetric analysis (TGA). The film is also analysed for its antibacterial properties. Several functional groups are identified for the different molecules such as cellulose, hemicellulose and lignin, and some polyphenolic compounds such as flavonoids. The film shows excellent antimicrobial properties against <em>E. Coli</em> and <em>S. Aureus</em> strains.</p>
<p><strong>Keywords:</strong> antibacterial, lime peel, film, FTIR, DSC, TGA, XRD</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p><strong>References</strong></p>
<ol>
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<li>HASEGAWA, S., BERHOW, Miyake, A., FONG, C. H. Analysis of bitter principles in <em>Modern methods of plant analysis.</em> <em>Fruit Analysis. </em>Berlin, Heidelberg: Springer-Verlag, 1996.</li>
<li>POULOSE Shibu M., HARRIS, E. D., PATIL, B. S. <a href="http://www.tandfonline.com/doi/abs/10.1207/s15327914nc5601_14">Antiproliferative effects of citrus limonoids against human neuroblastoma and colonic adenocarcinoma cells</a>.<em> Nutrition and Cancer</em>, 2006, <strong>56</strong>(1), 103‒112, doi: <a href="10.1207/s15327914nc5601_14">1207/s15327914nc5601_14</a>.</li>
<li>VANAMALA, Jairam, LEONARDI, Tety, PATIL, Bhimanagouda S., TADDEO, Stella S., MURPHY, Mary E., PIKE, Leonard M., CHAPKIN, Robert S., LUPTON, Joanne R., TURNER, Nancy D. Suppression of colon carcinogenesis by bioactive compounds in grapefruit. <em>Carcinogenesis</em>, 2006, <strong>27</strong>(6), 1257‒1265, doi: <a href="10.1093/carcin/bgi318">1093/carcin/bgi318</a>.</li>
<li>HAAZ, S., FONTAINE, K. R., CUTTER, G., LIMDI, N., PERUMEAN-CHANEY, S., ALLISON, D. B. Citrus aurantium and synephrine alkaloids in the treatment of overweight and obesity: an update. <em>Obesity Reviews</em>, 2006, <strong>7</strong>(1), 79‒88, doi: <a href="10.1111/j.1467-789X.2006.00195.x">1111/j.1467-789X.2006.00195.x</a>.</li>
<li>JAYAPRAKASHA, G. K., MANDADI, K. K., POULOSE, S. M., JADEGOUD, Y., NAGANA GOWDA, G. A., PATIL, B. S. Novel triterpenoid from <em>Citrus aurantium </em>possesses chemopreventive properties against human colon cancer cells. Bioorganic &amp; Medicinal Chemistry, 2008, <strong>16</strong>(11), 5939‒5951, doi: <a href="10.1016/j.bmc.2007.04.044">10.1016/j.bmc.2007.04.044</a>.</li>
<li>GIRENNAVAR, Basavaraj, JAYAPRAKASHA, G. K., JADEGOUD, Y., NAGANA GOWDA, G. A., PATIL, Bhimanagouda. S. Radical scavenging and cytochrome P450 3A4 inhibitory activity of bergaptol and geranylcoumarin from grapefruit. <em>Bioorganic and Medicinal Chemistry</em>, 2007, <strong>15</strong>(11), 3684‒3691, doi: <a href="10.1016/j.bmc.2007.03.047">1016/j.bmc.2007.03.047</a>.</li>
<li>JAYAPRAKASHA, G. K., MANDADI, K. K., POULOSE, Shibu M., JADEGOUD, Y., NAGANA GOWDA, G. A. and PATIL, Bhimanagouda S. Inhibition of colon cancer cell growth and antioxidant activity of bioactive compounds from <em>Poncirus trifoliate </em>(L.) Raf. <em>Bioorganic and Medicinal Chemistry</em>, 2007, <strong>15</strong>(14), 4923‒4932, doi:<a href="10.1016/j.bmc.2007.04.044">1016/j.bmc.2007.04.044</a>.</li>
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<li>HALLIWELL, Barry, GUTTERIDGE, John M. C. <em>Free radicals in biology and medicine</em>. 2<sup>nd</sup> Gloucestershire: Claredon Press. 1989.</li>
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<li>SEGAL, L., CREELY, J. J., MARTIN, A. E., CONRAD, C. M. An empirical method for estimating the degree of crystallinity of native cellulose using the X-ray diffractometer. <em>Textile Research Journal</em>, 1959, <strong>29</strong>(10), 786–794, doi: <a href="10.1177/004051755902901003">1177/004051755902901003</a>.</li>
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</ol>
<hr />
</div>
<p>274   <a href="http://www.tekstilec.si/wp-content/uploads/2015/12/274-280.pdf">The Primary School Pupils’ Knowledge and Attitudes on Selected Textile Topics</a></p>
<p><span style="color: #ffffff;">&#8230;&#8230;..</span>Francka Lovšin Kozina <span class="collapseomatic " id="id5748"  title="Abstract and References">Abstract and References</span><div id="target-id5748" class="collapseomatic_content ">
<p>University of Ljubljana, <a href="http://www.uni-lj.si/academies_and_faculties/faculties/2013071111514130/">Faculty of Education</a>, Kardeljeva pl. 16, SI-1000 Ljubljana</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p>Short Scientific Article</p>
<p>Received 04-2015 • Accepted 10-2015</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p>Corresponding author:</p>
<p><strong>D.Sc. Francka Lovšin Kozina</strong></p>
<p>Telephone: 00386 15892212</p>
<p>E-mail: <a href="mailto:francka.lovsin@pef.uni-lj.si">francka.lovsin@pef.uni-lj.si</a></p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p><strong>Abstract</strong></p>
<p>The purpose of this study was to examine how primary school children who had already finished learning about textile topics during Home economics instruction perceived the content of the textile module.Some topics which can be connected with development of sustainable thinking and prudent consumer behaviour were also researched. A total of 106 surveys were collected. The pupils were on average 10.5 years old. The results showed that the pupils were reasonably interested in handicrafts. Most respondents agreed that masteringskillssuch assewing orknitting isgood because these activities allow pupils tosavemoney and also to express their creativities. The results showed that the transfer of theoretical knowledge in practice is not optimal. Some improvements in the curriculum should be considered in terms of refreshing/updating the textile topicsand also the time duration of the textile module.</p>
<p><strong>Keywords</strong>: education, handicraft, textile, sustainability</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p><strong>References</strong></p>
<ol>
<li>HEIMDAL, Elisabeth Jacobsen. <em>Interactive inspirational tool for responsive textiles : </em><em>master&#8217;s thesis</em>. Lyngby: Technical University of Denmark, Department of Management Engineering, 2009.</li>
<li>TODOROVIĆ, Tijana, TOPORIŠIČ, Tomaž, PAVKO ČUDEN, Alenka. Clothes and costumes as form of nonverbal communication. <em>Tekstilec,</em> 2014,<strong> 57</strong>(4), 321−333, doi: <a href="10.14502/Tekstilec2014.57.321–333">14502/Tekstilec2014.57.321–333</a>.</li>
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<hr />
</div>
<p>281   <a href="http://www.tekstilec.si/wp-content/uploads/2015/12/281-300.pdf">Information regarding Slovenian Textile, Clothing and Leather Production Companies</a></p>
<p><span style="color: #ffffff;">&#8230;&#8230;..</span>Urša Stankovič Elesini*, Špela Zakrajšek*, Estera Cerar**, Matija Marolt***, Primož Godec***,</p>
<p><span style="color: #ffffff;">&#8230;&#8230;..</span>Raša Urbas* <span class="collapseomatic " id="id8546"  title="Abstract and References">Abstract and References</span><div id="target-id8546" class="collapseomatic_content ">
<p><sup>*</sup>University of Ljubljana, Faculty of Natural Sciences and Engineering, Department of Textiles, Graphic Arts and Design, Snežniška 05, SI-1000 Ljubljana</p>
<p><sup>**</sup>Technical Museum of Slovenia, Tržaška cesta 2, SI-1000 Ljubljana</p>
<p><sup>***</sup>University of Ljubljana, Faculty of Computer Science and Information Science, Laboratory for Computer Graphics and Multimedia, Večna pot 113, SI-1000 Ljubljana</p>
<p><strong> </strong></p>
<p>Original Scientific Article</p>
<p>Received 08-2015 • Accepted 10-2015</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p>Corresponding author:</p>
<p><strong>Assoc. Prof. D.Sc. Urška Stankovič Elesini</strong></p>
<p>Telephone: +386 1 200 32 29</p>
<p>E-mail: <a href="mailto:urska.stankovic@ntf.uni-lj.si">urska.stankovic@ntf.uni-lj.si</a></p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p><strong>Abstract</strong></p>
<p>Competing in the market means constant development throughout all areas, also in information about business processes, the development of which has significantly increased over last sixty years. Results of a research dealt with how the Slovenian textile, clothing and leather production (TOUP) industries have followed this development are presented in the article. The research was further directed towards a new age state. Based on the data collected from the literature, eight hypotheses were set up, which were examined through interviews and questionnaires. 111 (25.5 percent) companies responded to the study. The results were analysed separately for large, medium, small-sized and micro companies, as the preliminary research showed that their views (and actual states) regarding business information systems are quite different, so any generalisation of the results wouldn’t provide realistic treatment of the set hypotheses. Among the gathered data appropriate correlation was searched for using the Pearson χ2-test. All large and medium-sized TOUP companies are equipped with information systems and 80 percent of small-sized and 26.3 percent of micro companies. More than half of the companies (64.4 percent) prefer the information systems of domestic suppliers. Only 20 percent of large-sized companies and a smaller percentage of micro companies have developed their own business information systems. Medium-sized companies use purchased/licensed systems. Less than half of the large and medium-sized companies use two or more interconnected information systems at the same time. Business information systems support economic and commercial functions in 60.4 percent of companies, while in the other companies the production, controlling, CRM, investing etc. functions are also present. Business information systems in cloud are present in less than 15 percent of Slovenian TOUP companies. The business information systems in large and medium-sized companies are eight years old on average. During last year (2014), 40 percent of companies upgraded their business information systems. Investments into systems are small with the exceptions of some large-sized companies, where investments are reasonably bigger because of the systems’ complexities.</p>
<p><strong>Keywords:</strong> business information systems, history review, production of textiles, production of clothes, production of leather and related products, TOUP</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
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<hr />
</div>
<p>301   <a href="http://www.tekstilec.si/wp-content/uploads/2015/12/301-313.pdf">The Influence of a Surfactant’s Structure and the Mode of its Action during Reactive Wool Dyeing</a></p>
<p><span style="color: #ffffff;">&#8230;&#8230;..</span>Jelena Vasiljević, Barbara Simončič and Mateja Kert <span class="collapseomatic " id="id7543"  title="Abstract and References">Abstract and References</span><div id="target-id7543" class="collapseomatic_content ">
<p>University of Ljubljana, Faculty of Natural Sciences and Engineering, Department of Textiles, Graphic Arts and Design, Snežniška 05, SI-1000 Ljubljana</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p>Original Scientific Article</p>
<p>Received 09-2015 • Accepted 11-2015</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p>Corresponding author:</p>
<p><strong>Assist. Prof. D.Sc. Mateja Kert</strong></p>
<p>Telephone: +386 1 200 32 34</p>
<p>E-mail: <a href="mailto:mateja.kert@ntf.uni-lj.si">mateja.kert@ntf.uni-lj.si</a></p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p><strong>Abstract</strong></p>
<p>The modes of actions of different surfactants during reactive wool dyeing using C.I. Reactive Red 120 was investigated at pH 3 and temperatures between 50 and 90°C. The studied surfactants included the following: the anionic surfactant sodium dodecylsulphate (SDS); the cationic surfactant n-dodecyltrimethylammonium bromide (DTAB); the nonionic surfactants Brij C10, Brij S10, Brij L23, Brij 58, Brij S20 and Brij S100; and the commercially available amphoteric product Albegal B. Compared with surfactant-free dyeing, SDS and Brij S100 slightly decreased the dye exhaustion after 360 minutes of dyeing, whereas the other studied surfactants significantly increased the dye exhaustion. The enhanced dye uptake was attributed to the adsorptions of the surfactants to the wool fibres, which increased the cationic characteristics and the hydrophilicity of the fibre surface. The surfactants facilitate dye fixation up to a dyeing temperature of 80°C and decrease it at 90°C. The surfactants increased the <em>K/S</em> values and changed the CIELAB values of the dyeing. Albegal B exhibited the strongest effect.</p>
<p><strong>Keywords</strong>: wool, reactive dye, surfactant, dye exhaustion, dye fixation</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
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<li>HANNEMANN, Klaus. Mechanistic investigations on the action of levelling agents in reactive wool dyeing. <em>Journal of the Society of Dyers and Colourists,</em> 1992, <strong>108</strong>(4), 200–202, doi: <a href="10.1111/j.1478-4408.1992.tb01440.x">10.1111/j.1478-4408.1992.tb01440.x</a>.</li>
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<li>YEN, Ming-Shien. Application of chitosan/nonionic surfactant mixture in reactive dyes for dyeing wool fabrics. <em>Journal of Applied Polymer Science</em>, 2001, <strong>80</strong>(14), 2859–2864, doi: <a href="10.1002/app.1403">10.1002/app.1403</a>.</li>
<li>CHO, Ho Jung, LEWIS, David, M. Reactive dyeing systems for wool fibres based on hetero-bifunctional reactive dyes. Part 1: Application of commercial reactive dyes. <em>Coloration Technology</em>, 2002, <strong>118</strong>(4), 198–204, doi: <a href="10.1111/j.1478-4408.2002.tb00100.x">10.1111/j.1478-4408.2002.tb00100.x</a>.</li>
<li>CHO, Ho Jung, LEWIS, David, M. Reactive dyeing systems for wool fibres based on hetero-bifunctional reactive dyes. Part 2: Investigation of dyeing properties during the dyeing cycle. <em>Coloration Technology</em>, 2002, <strong>118</strong>(5), 220–225, doi: <a href="10.1111/j.1478-4408.2002.tb00103.x">10.1111/j.1478-4408.2002.tb00103.x</a>.</li>
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<li>BROOKS, John H. The mode of action of levelling agents in the dyeing of wool. <em>Journal of the Society of Dyers and Colourists</em>, 1974, <strong>90</strong>(5), 158–163, doi: <a href="10.1111/j.1478-4408.1974.tb03195.x">10.1111/j.1478-4408.1974.tb03195.x</a>.</li>
<li>NAEBE, Maryam, COOKSON, Peter G., RIPPON, John A., WANG, Xungai G. Effects of leveling agent on the uptake of reactive dyes by untreated and plasma-treated wool. <em>Textile Research Journal</em>, 2010, <strong>80</strong>(7), 612–622, doi: <a href="10.1177/0040517509340603">10.1177/0040517509340603</a>.</li>
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<li>ROSEN, Milton J. <em>Surfactants and interfacial phenomena</em>. 1. ed. New York : John Wiley &amp; Sons, 1989, 122–125.</li>
<li>HAIT, S. M., MOULIK, S. P. Determination of critical micelle concentration (CMC) of nonionic surfactants by donor-acceptor interaction with iodine and correlation of CMC with hydrophile-lipophile balance and other parameters of the surfactants. <em>Journal of Surfactants and Detergents</em>, 2001, <strong>4</strong>(3), 303–309, doi: <a href="10.1007/s11743-001-0184-2">10.1007/s11743-001-0184-2</a>.</li>
<li>SCOTT, Hans. Hydrophile-lipophile balance and cloud points of nonionic surfactants. <em>Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences</em>, 1969, <strong>58</strong>(12), 1443–1449, doi: <a href="10.1002/jps.2600581203">10.1002/jps.2600581203</a>.</li>
<li>Sigma Aldrich technical data [dostopno na daljavo]. Dostopno na svetovnem spletu: <a href="http://www.sigmaaldrich.com">http://www.sigmaaldrich.com</a>.</li>
<li>RUSZNÁK, I., FRANKL, J., GOMBKÖTŐ, J. Photoreactivity of wool dyed with reactive dyes. <em>Journal of the Society of Dyers and Colourists,</em> 1985, <strong>101</strong>(4), 130–136, doi: <a href="10.1111/j.1478-4408.1985.tb01015.x">10.1111/j.1478-4408.1985.tb01015.x</a>.</li>
<li>CHO, H. J., LEWIS, David M., JIA, B. H. Improved reactive dyeing of wool with novel trifunctional reactive dyes. <em>Coloration Technology,</em> 2007, <strong>123</strong>(2), 86–95, doi: 10.1111/j.1478-4408.2007.00067.x.</li>
<li>LEWIS, David M. Dyestuff-fibre interactions. <em>Review of Progress in Coloration and Related Topics</em>, 1998, <strong>28</strong>(1), 12–17, doi: <a href="10.1111/j.1478-4408.1998.tb00114.x">10.1111/j.1478-4408.1998.tb00114.x</a>.</li>
<li>CESTARI, Antonio R., VIEIRA, Eunice F. S., VIEIRA, Gláucia S., ALMEIDA, Luis E. The removal of anionic dyes from aqueous solutions in the presence of anionic surfactant using aminopropylsilica−A kinetic study. <em>Journal of Hazardous Materials</em>, 2006, <strong>138</strong>(1), 133–141, doi: <a href="10.1016/j.jhazmat.2006.05.046">10.1016/j.jhazmat.2006.05.046</a>.</li>
<li>DATYNER, Arved. <em>Surfactants in Textile processing</em>. New York : Marcel Dekker Inc., 1983, 85–105.</li>
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</ol>
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		<title>Tekstilec 3/2015</title>
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		<description><![CDATA[Tekstilec, Vol. 58, 2015(3)    CONTENTS   SCIENTIFIC ARTICLES   168      New Approach for Optimising the Impregnations of Individual Batches of Aramid Fabrics ………..Natalja Fjodorova*, Marjana Novič*, Tamara Diankova**, Olga Baskova** 177      Structures and Colours of Coptic Textiles from the National Museum of Slovenia ………..Gojka Pajagič Bregar*, Matejka Bizjak** 191      The Influence of Mordanting with Silver Nitrate on The Dyeability and UV Protection ………..of Cotton Dyed with Green Tea ………..Marija Gorjanc, Rosana Sluga Štih, Iris Vrhovski, Monika Curk 199      The Influence of Mordanting on the Dyeability of Cotton Dyed with Turmeric Extract ………..Irena Mulec, Marija Gorjanc 209      Treatment of Wastewater Contaminated with Screen Printing Ink ………..Maja Klančnik in Meta Batista]]></description>
				<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Tekstilec, Vol. <strong>58</strong>, 2015(3)</p>
<p><strong> </strong><strong> </strong></p>
<p><strong>CONTENTS</strong></p>
<p><strong> </strong></p>
<p><strong>SCIENTIFIC ARTICLES</strong></p>
<p><em> </em></p>
<p>168      <a href="http://www.tekstilec.si/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/168-176.pdf">New Approach for Optimising the Impregnations of Individual Batches of Aramid Fabrics</a></p>
<p><span style="color: #ffffff;">………..</span>Natalja Fjodorova*, Marjana Novič*, Tamara Diankova**, Olga Baskova** <span class="collapseomatic " id="id1222"  title="Abstract and References">Abstract and References</span><div id="target-id1222" class="collapseomatic_content ">
<p>*National Institute of Chemistry, Laboratory of Chemometrics, Hajdrihova 19, SI-1000 Ljubljana</p>
<p>**St. Petersburg State University of Technology and Design, Department of Chemical Engineering and Textile Design, Bolshaya Morskaya Str. 18, RU-191186, St. Petersburg, Russia</p>
<p>Original Scientific Article</p>
<p>Received 04-2015 • Accepted 07-2015</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p>Corresponding author:</p>
<p><strong>D.Sc. Natalja Fjodorova</strong></p>
<p>Phone: +386 1 4760441</p>
<p>E-mail: <a href="mailto:natalja.fjodorova@ki.si">natalja.fjodorova@ki.si</a></p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p><strong>Abstract</strong></p>
<p>Innovate textile materials for special clothing are intended for providing trauma protection for the wearer. Fabrics made from high performance aramid fibres are widely used nowadays for manufacturing athletic sportswear for extreme sports due to their high specific tensile modulus and strength. The aim of our study was to illustrate a new approach when searching for optimal settings for impregnating individual batches of textile materials on the basis of para aramid fibres. We demonstrate a feed-forward bottleneck (FFBN) neural network mapping technique that makes it possible to see all optima (optimal settings for best quality) in the studied process. The selections of optimal settings are based on making decisions allowing us to choose optimal settings for processes in relation to the best quality and smallest (minimal) expense. This new approach can be applied for searching optimal settings regarding different chemical treatments. If a standard statistical regression model (in the cases of non-linear relationships) experiences lack of fit, it can be successfully substituted with the FFBN neural network mapping technique. This method can also be recommended as a double check of a studied process when we use other approaches.</p>
<p><strong>Keywords</strong>: aramid fabrics, optimisation, impregnation, feed-forward bottleneck neural network, design of experiment</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p><strong>References</strong></p>
<ol>
<li>Alchemie Group home page [online], [accessed 22. 4. 2015]. Available on Word Wide Web: &lt;<a href="http://alchemie-group.com/core-materials-technology/autx-aramid-fibre/compliance/">http://alchemie-group.com/core-materials-technology/autx-aramid-fibre/compliance/</a>&gt;.</li>
<li>KIM, Hyun Ah and KIM, <a href="http://link.springer.com/search?facet-author=%22Seung+Jin+Kim%22">Seung Jin.</a> Physical properties of para-aramid/nylon hybrid air textured yarns for protective clothing. <a href="http://link.springer.com/journal/12221">Fibers and Polymers</a>, 2014, 15(11), 2428–2436, doi: 10.1007/s12221-014-2428-5.</li>
<li><a href="http://link.springer.com/search?facet-author=%22Huanda+Zheng%22">ZHENG</a>, Huanda and <a href="http://link.springer.com/search?facet-author=%22Laijiu+Zheng%22">ZHENG</a>, Laijiu. Dyeing of meta-aramid fibers with disperse dyes in supercritical carbon dioxide. <a href="http://link.springer.com/journal/12221">Fibers and Polymers</a>, 2014, 15(8), 1627–1634, doi: 10.1007/s12221-014-1627-4.</li>
<li>BILISIK, Kadir. Experimental determination of yarn pull-out properties of para-aramid (Kevlar®) woven fabric. Journal of Industrial Textiles January, 2012 41(3), 201–221, doi: 10.1177/1528083711413411.</li>
<li>UPPAL, Rohit, RAMASWAMY, Gita N. and LOUGHIN, Thomas. A novel method to assess degree of crystallinity of aramid filament yarns. Journal of Industrial Textiles, 2013, 43(1), 3–19, doi: 10.1177/1528083712444648.</li>
<li>LIN, Lantian, SHEN, Yiping and ZHANG, Qiuping. Analysis of environmental impact on mechanical properties of aramid filaments. Journal of Industrial Textiles, 2013, 42(4), 489–500, doi: 10.1177/1528083712446383.</li>
<li>PARK, Jong Lyoul, YOON, Byung Il, PAIK, Jong Gyu and KANG, Tae Jin. Ballistic performance of p-aramid fabrics impregnated with shear thickening fluid. Part I – Effect of laminating sequence. Textile Research Journal, 2011, 82(6), 527–541, doi: 10.1177/0040517511420753.</li>
<li>ZIELINSKA, Dorota, DELCZYK-OLEJNICZAK, Bogumila, WIERZBICKI, Lukasz, WILBIK-HAŁGAS, Bożena, STRUSZCZYK, Marcin Henryk and LEONOWICZ, Marcin. Investigation of the effect of para-aramid fabric impregnation with shear thickening fluid on quasi-static stab resistance. Textile Research Journal, 2014, 84 (15), 1569–1577, doi:10.1177/0040517514525881.</li>
<li>LI, Ting-Ting, WANG, Rui, LOU, Ching Wen and LIN, Jia-Horng. Evaluation of high-modulus, puncture-resistance composite nonwoven fabrics by response surface methodology. Journal of Industrial Textiles, 2013, 43(2), 247–263, doi: 10.1177/1528083712452900.</li>
<li>ZHIYING, Cui, YANMIN, Wan and WEIYUAN, Zhang. Thermal protective performance and moisture transmission of firefighter protective clothing based on orthogonal design. Journal of Industrial Textiles, 2010, 39(4), 347–356, doi: 10.1177/1528083709347126.</li>
<li>LEE, Kyulin and CHO, Gilsoo. The optimum coating condition by response surface methodology for maximizing vapor-permeable water resistance and minimizing frictional sound of combat uniform fabric. Textile Research Journal, 2014, 84(7), 684–693, doi: 10.1177/0040517513509870.</li>
<li>SARAVANA, kumar T. and SAMPATH, V. R. Prediction of dimensional properties of weft knitted cardigan fabric by artificial neural network system. Journal of Industrial Textiles, 2013, 42(4), 446–458, doi: 10.1177/1528083712444296.</li>
<li>BEHERA, B. K. and GOYAL, Y. Artificial neural network system for the design of airbag fabrics. Journal of Industrial Textiles, 2009, 39(1), 45–55, doi: 10.1177/1528083708093335.</li>
<li>KRAMER, Mark A. Nonlinear principal component analysis using autoassociative neural networks. AIChE Journal, 1991, 37(2), 233–243, doi: 10.1002/aic.690370209.</li>
<li>NOVIČ, Marjana and GROŠELJ, Neva. Bottle-neck type of neural network as a mapping device towards food specifications. Analytica Chimica Acta, 2009, 649(1), 68–74, doi: 10.1016/j.aca.2009.07.018.</li>
<li>DASZYKOWSKI, M., WALCZAK, B. and MASSART, D.L. A journey into low-dimensional spaces with autoassociative neural networks. Talanta, 2003, 59(6), 1095–1105, doi: <a href="http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/S0039-9140(03)00018-3">10.1016/S0039-9140(03)00018-3</a>.</li>
<li>DASZYKOWSKI, M., WALCZAK, B. and MASSART, D.L. Projection methods in chemistry. Chemometrics and Intelligent Laboratory Systems, 2003, 65(1), 97–112, doi: 10.1016/S0169-7439(02)00107-7.</li>
<li>LIVINGSTONE, D. J., HESKETH, G. and CLAYWORTH, D. Novel method for the display of multivariate data using neural networks. Journal of Molecular Graphics, 1991, 9(2), 115–118, doi: 10.1016/0263-7855(91)85008-M.</li>
<li>KOCJANČIČ, Robert and ZUPAN, Jure. Application of a feed-forward artificial neural network as a mapping device. Journal of Chemical Information and Modeling, 1997, 37 (6), 985–989, doi: 10.1021/ci970223h.</li>
<li>FJODOROVA, Natalja, NOVIČ, Marjana and DIANKOVA, Tamara. Optimization of pigment dyeing process of high performance fibers using feed-forward bottleneck neural networks mapping technique. Analytica Chimica Acta, 2011, 705(1–2), 148–154, doi: 10.1016/j.aca.2011.04.041.</li>
<li>High-performance fibres. Edited by J. W. S. Hearle. Cambridge: Woodhead Publishing, 2001, pp. 329, doi: 10.1533/9781855737549.</li>
</ol>
<hr />
</div>
<p>177      <a href="http://www.tekstilec.si/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/177-190.pdf">Structures and Colours of Coptic Textiles from the National Museum of Slovenia</a></p>
<p><span style="color: #ffffff;">………..</span>Gojka Pajagič Bregar*, Matejka Bizjak** <span class="collapseomatic " id="id8000"  title="Abstract and References">Abstract and References</span><div id="target-id8000" class="collapseomatic_content ">
<p>*National Museum of Slovenia, Prešernova 20, SI-100 Ljubljana</p>
<p>** University of Ljubljana, Faculty of Natural Sciences and Engineering, Department of Textiles, Graphic Arts and Design, Snežniška 5, SI-1000 Ljubljana</p>
<p>Original Scientific Article</p>
<p>Received 04-2015 • Accepted 08-2015</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p>Corresponding author:</p>
<p><strong>Assoc. Prof. D.Sc. Mateja Bizjak</strong></p>
<p>Phone: +386 1 200 32 19</p>
<p>E-mail: <a href="mailto:mateja.bizjak@ntf.uni-lj.si">mateja.bizjak@ntf.uni-lj.si</a></p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p><strong>Abstract</strong></p>
<p>The Coptic fabrics held by the National Museum of Slovenia in Ljubljana were made in Egypt between the 3rd and 10th centuries AD. These textiles are of historical and archaeological value as they were preserved in graves over the centuries. The analysed artefacts were once part of a range of textile uses such as tunics, covers, headgear, curtains, scarves, and cushions. The theoretical part of this paper describes their basic constructional features and presents an overview of the natural dyes used for the wool. Only non-destructive research methods have been used as the textiles were found to be so delicate and due to their historic significance. In the experimental part the NOVEX stereomicroscope with a digital camera CMEX-5000 was used for observing the colours and determining the woven structures, thread density and other constructional features connected with the weaving. Simulation and reconstruction of one design were carried out on the basis of constructional data.</p>
<p><strong>Keywords</strong>: Coptic fabrics, woven structure, thread density, natural dyes, and simulation</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p><strong>References</strong></p>
<ol>
<li>STOJANOVIĆ, Dobrila. Koptske tkanine. Beograd: Muzej primenjene umetnosti, 1980, 86 str.</li>
<li>ZELINKA, Darinka. Koptske tkanine v Narodnem muzeju v Ljubljani. Situla, 1963, zv. 6, 76.</li>
<li>NICHOLSON, Paul T., SHAW, Ian. Ancient Egyptian materials and technology. Cambridge: University Press, 2000, 268–279.</li>
<li>STAUFFER, Annemarie. Koptische Textilien. Bern: Bernisches Historisches Museum, 1996.</li>
<li>SCHWEPPE, Helmut. Handbuch der Naturfarbstoffe. Landberg/Lech: <em>Ecomed</em>, 1992, str. 5, 17–19, 32, 53, 54, 60–61, 172, 230, 315, 483, 490.</li>
<li>STAUFFER, Annemarie. Spätantike, frühchristliche und islamische Textilien aus Ägypten. Bern: Bernische Historisches Museum, 1996, str. 10.</li>
<li>RENNER, Dorothee. Spätantike figürliche Purpurwirkereien. Documenta Textilia. München: Deutscher Kunstverlag, 1981, str. 82–94.</li>
<li>PLINI, C<em>. Secundi Naturalis historiae libri XXXVII. (Plinij Starejši.</em> <em>Naravoslovje</em>, <em>Izbrana poglavja</em>). Ljubljana: Modrijan, 2009, str. 268–329.</li>
<li>PFISTER, R., BELLINGER, Louisa. The Excavation at Dura Europos. Final report IV. Part II. The Textiles. New Haven: Yale University Press, 1945.</li>
<li>HOFENK de GRAF, Judith. Zur Geschichte der Textilfärberei. V: Documenta textilia. München: Deutscher Kunstverlag, 1981, str. 23–33.</li>
<li>HOFMANN-DE KEISER, Regina. Farbstoffe in koptischen Textilien. V: Verletzliche Beute. Spätantike und frühislamische Textilien aus Ägypten. Wien: Hatje Cantz Verlag, 2006, str. 23–36.</li>
<li>RUTSCHOWSCAYA, Marie-Hélène. Coptic fabrics. Pariz: Adam Biro, 1990, 26–29.</li>
<li>DE MOOR, Antoine, VERHECKEN-LAMMENS, Chris, VERHECKEN, André, MAERTENS, Hugo. 3500 years of textile art: the collection in HeadquARTers. Tielt: Lannoo, 2008, str. 65–85, 86–95.</li>
<li>HOFENK de GRAFF, Judith H. The colourful past. Origins, chemistry and identification of natural dyestuffs. Riggisberg: Abegg-Stiftung, London: Archetype Publications, 2004, 396.</li>
<li>The Leyden and Stockholm Papyri. Greco-Egyptian chemical documents from the early 4th century AD: Oesper Collections in the History of Chemistry. Uredil William B. Jensen. Cincinnati: University of Cincinnati, 2008, str. 84.</li>
<li>KIRBY, Jo, SAUNDERS, D., SPRING, M., HIGGITT, C. Rdeča in modra: nedavne raziskave pigmentov, barvil in spremembe barvnih plasti v londonski Narodni Galeriji. <em>Znanost za umetnost: konservatorstvo in restavratorstvo danes: zbornik prispevkov mednarodnega simpozija</em>. El. knjiga. Ljubljana: Zavod za varstvo kulturne dediščine Slovenije, Restavratorski center, 2013, str. 73–97.</li>
<li>TORELLI, Niko. Barvilni lesovi. Les, 2001, 53(9), 295–301.</li>
<li>Sveto pismo stare in nove zaveze. Ljubljana: Britanska biblična družba, 1974.</li>
<li>BRUNS, Margarete. Von rotem Ocker. Kermesläsen und Purpurschnecken. V: <em>Ein Buch von alten Farben. </em>München: Moss &amp; Partner, 1989, str. 7–13.</li>
<li>NAUERTH, Claudia, AHRENS, Dieter, KIRCHER, Ursula, LEWIS, Suzanne. Koptische Textilkunst im spätantiken Ägypten. Die Sammlung Rautenstrauch im Städtischen Museum Simeonstift Trier. Trier: Spee-Verlag, 1978, str. 20.</li>
<li>BOŽIČ, Mojca, KOKOL, Vanja. Redukcijska barvila: konvencionalni postopek barvanja in ekološke alternative. Tekstilec, 2006, 49(1–3), 8–15.</li>
<li>STIJNMAN, A. Iron gall inks in history: ingredients and production. V: Iron gall inks on manufacture, characterisation, degradation and stabilisation. Edited by Jana Kolar in Matija Strlič. Ljubljana: Narodna univerzitetna knjižnica, 2006, str. 25–68.</li>
<li>SCHAEFER, Von G. Der Webstuhl. Ciba-Rundschau, Nr. 16., Basel, 1937, str. 554–567.</li>
<li>PAJAGIČ BREGAR, Gojka. Analiza koptskih tkanin iz Narodnega muzeja Slovenije : doktorska disertacija. Ljubljana: Univerza v Ljubljani, 2012.</li>
<li>DIMAND, M. Die Ornamentik der Ägyptischen Wollwirkwreien. Leipzig: Hinrichs&#8217;sche Buchhandlung, 1924, str. 24.</li>
<li>RENNER-VOLBACH, Dorothee. Koptische Textilien: Bestandskatalog der Archäologischen Staatssammlung München. Ausstellungskataloge der Archäologischen Staatssammlung; Bd. 38. München: Archäologischen Staatssammlung &#8211; Museum für Vor- und Frühgeschichte, Mainz in Ruhpolding: Franz Philipp Rutzen, 2010, str. 8.</li>
</ol>
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</div>
<p>191      <a href="http://www.tekstilec.si/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/191-198.pdf">The Influence of Mordanting with Silver Nitrate on The Dyeability and UV Protection</a></p>
<p><span style="color: #ffffff;">………..</span><a href="http://www.tekstilec.si/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/191-198.pdf">of Cotton Dyed with Green Tea</a></p>
<p><span style="color: #ffffff;">………..</span>Marija Gorjanc, Rosana Sluga Štih, Iris Vrhovski, Monika Curk <span class="collapseomatic " id="id6270"  title="Abstract and References">Abstract and References</span><div id="target-id6270" class="collapseomatic_content ">
<p>University of Ljubljana, Faculty of Natural Sciences and Engineering, Department of Textiles, Graphic Arts and Design, Snežniška 5, SI-1000 Ljubljana</p>
<p>Original Scientific Article</p>
<p>Received 06-2015 • Accepted 07-2015</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p>Corresponding author:</p>
<p><strong>Assist. Prof. D.Sc. Marija Gorjanc</strong></p>
<p>Phone: +386 1 2003256</p>
<p>E-mail: <a href="mailto:marija.gorjanc@ntf.uni-lj.si">marija.gorjanc@ntf.uni-lj.si</a></p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p><strong>Abstract</strong></p>
<p>Silver nitrate (AgNO<sub>3</sub>) was used as a mordant for dyeing cotton fabric with natural dyes. Due to the high concentrations of catechin and tannin, green tea was used as a natural dye. The green tea extraction was performed under neutral and alkaline conditions. Four molar concentrations of AgNO<sub>3</sub> were used, namely 1, 5, 10 and 50 mM. Mordanting was performed during dyeing with green tea extracts. The colour (CIE L*a*b* values) and UV protection factor (UPF) of the dyed cotton samples before and after ten repetitive washings were measured spectrophotometrically. The results revealed that with the increase of the molar concentration of AgNO<sub>3</sub>, the samples became darker, redder and bluer. Dyeing with alkaline green tea extract was not as successful as dyeing with neutral green tea extract. Different shades of cotton were achieved when dyeing with neutral green tea extract and mordanting with different molar concentrations of AgNO<sub>3</sub>. Using 50mM AgNO<sub>3</sub> achieved a very dark grey (almost black) colour. Cotton samples dyed with neutral green tea extract had excellent UV protective properties (50+), some even after washing.</p>
<p><strong>Keywords</strong>: dyeing, green tea, mordanting, silver nitrate, colours, UV protection.</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p><strong>References</strong></p>
<ol>
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<li>SETIAWAN, Veronica Wendy, ZHANG, Zuo-Feng, YU, Guo-Pei, LU, Qing-Yi, LI, Yong-Liang, LU, Ming-Lan, WANG, Ming-Rong, GUO, Chun Hua, YU, Shun-Zhang, KURTZ, Robert C. and HSIEH, Chung-Cheng. Protective effect of green tea on the risks of chronic gastritis and stomach cancer. International Journal of Cancer, 2001, 92(4), 600–604, doi: 10.1002/ijc.1231.</li>
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<li>SON, Son-Gi, JANG, Kyung-Jin, KIM, Tae-Kyeong, JUNG, Jong-Suc and CHOI, Young-Hee. Functional dyeing and finishing using catechins extracted from green tea (II) &#8211; Evaluation of anti-oxidant activity of the fabrics treated with green tea extracts. Journal of Korean Society of Dyers and Finishers, 2008, 20(5), 7–13, doi: 10.5764/TCF.2008.20.5.007.</li>
<li>HWANG, Eun-Kyung, LEE, Young-Hee and KIM, Han-Do. Dyeing and deodorizing properties of cotton, silk, and wool fabrics dyed with various natural colorants. Journal of the Korean Society of Dyers and Finishers, 2007, 19(6), 12–20.</li>
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<li>SHIN, Younsook and CHOI, Hee. Characteristics and dyeing properties of green tea colorants (Part III) – Dyeing properties cotton with green tea colorants. Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, 1999, 23(4), 510–516.</li>
<li>CHOI, Suk Chul, JUNG, Jin Soun, and CHUN, Tae Il. The effect of mordants on the silk fabrics dyed with green tea extracts (I) – Analysis of natural mordants and the effect on color changes. Journal of Korean Society of Dyers and Finishers, 1999, 11(3), 15–22.</li>
<li>SON, Ji-Hyon, LEE, Myung-Sun and CHUN, Tae-Il. Catechins content and color values of silk fabrics dyed with Korean green tea extracts. Journal of Korean Society of Dyers and Finishers, 2006, 18(1), 10–19.</li>
<li>DEO, H. T.; DESAI, B. K. Dyeing of the cotton and jute with tea as a natural dye. Coloration Technology, 1999, 115(7–8), 224–227, doi: 10.1111/j.1478-4408.1999.tb00360.x.</li>
<li>KIM, Sin-hee. Dyeing characteristics and UV protection property of green tea dyed cotton fabrics &#8211; Focusing on the effect of chitosan mordanting condition. Fibers and Polymers, 2006, 7(3), 255–261, doi: 10.1007/BF02875682.</li>
<li>KIM, Sin-Hee. Ultraviolet protection property of green tea extract dyed fabrics. Journal of Korean Society of Dyers and Finishers, 2006, 18(6), 80–87.</li>
<li>KIM, Tae-Kyeong, SON, Song-I, JUNG, Jong-Suc, JANG, Kyung-Jin, KWON, Oh-Kyung, CHOI, Young-Hee and JEONG, Young-Han. Functional dyeing and finishing using catechins extracted from green tea (I) – Extraction optimization, stability, and content analysis of catechins. Journal of Korean Society of Dyers and Finishers, 2008, 20(2), 75–82, doi: 10.5764/TCF.2008.20.2.075.</li>
<li>SON, Songi, JANG, Kyungjin, KIM, Taekyeong, JUNG, Jongsuc and CHOI, Younghee. Functional dyeing and finishing using catechins extracted from green tea – dyeing optimization and fastness. Journal of Korean Society of Clothing Industry, 2009, 11(2), 344–349.</li>
<li>SHIN, Nam-Hee, KIM, Sung-Yeon and CHO, Kuyung-Rae. A study on dyeing of gray tone utilizing green tea. Journal of the Korean Society for Clothing Industry, 2006, 8(3), 343–348.</li>
<li>JUNG, Hye-Kyung and KIM, Sin-Hee. Physical property evaluation of chitosan mordanted green tea dyed cellulose &#8211; focusing on the physical property changes upon the repetition of treatment. Journal of Fashion Business, 2008, 12(6), 61–72.</li>
<li>GHAHEH, Fatemah Shahmoradi, MORTAZAVI, Sayed Majid, ALIHOSSEINI, Farzaneh, FASSIHI, Afshin, NATERI Ali Shams and ABEDI, Daryoush. Assessment of antibacterial activity of wool fabrics dyed with natural dyes. Journal of Cleaner Production, 2014, 72, 139–145, doi: 10.1016/j.jclepro.2014.02.050.</li>
<li>STANA-KLEINSCHEK, Karin and RIBITSCH, Volker. Electrokinetic properties of processed cellulose fibers. Colloids and Surfaces A: Physicochemical and Engineering Aspects, 1998, 140(1–3), 127–138, doi: 10.1016/S0927-7757(97)00301-4.</li>
<li>Chemistry of the textiles industry. Edited by C. M. Carr. Cambridge: Blackie Academic&amp;Professional, 1995, doi: 10.1007/978-94-011-0595-8.</li>
</ol>
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</div>
<p>199      <a href="http://www.tekstilec.si/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/199-208.pdf">The Influence of Mordanting on the Dyeability of Cotton Dyed with Turmeric Extract</a></p>
<p><span style="color: #ffffff;">………..</span>Irena Mulec, Marija Gorjanc <span class="collapseomatic " id="id4084"  title="Abstract and References">Abstract and References</span><div id="target-id4084" class="collapseomatic_content ">
<p>University of Ljubljana, Faculty of Natural Sciences and Engineering, Department of Textiles, Graphic Arts and Design, Snežniška 5, SI-1000 Ljubljana</p>
<p>Original Scientific Article</p>
<p>Received 04-2015 • Accepted 07-2015</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p>Corresponding author:</p>
<p><strong>Assist. Prof. D.Sc. Marija Gorjanc</strong></p>
<p>Phone: +386 1 2003256</p>
<p>E-mail: <a href="mailto:marija.gorjanc@ntf.uni-lj.si">marija.gorjanc@ntf.uni-lj.si</a></p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p><strong>Abstract</strong></p>
<p>The dyeability of cotton fabric with turmeric extract in two concentrations (pale and dark dyeing) was studied using four different mordants in low concentration (0.2 g/l). As mordants three metal salts were used as mordants (ferrous sulphate, aluminium sulphate and zinc chloride), and organic mordant tannin. The mordanting of cotton was performed before, during and after dyeing, namely by pre-, meta-, and post-mordanting application methods. Colour fastness of dyed samples to repetitive washing and hot pressing was also performed. The colour values of the dyed samples were measured on a reflectance spectrophotometer. The results showed that the dyeability of the cotton with turmeric extract is greatly influenced by the used mordant and its application method. The highest dyeing uptake (dyeability) was achieved by pre-mordanting with aluminium sulphate. All the mordanted samples had improved colour fastness, especially those samples meta-mordanted with ferrous sulphate.</p>
<p><strong>Keywords</strong>: cotton, turmeric, curcuma, mordant, natural dyeing, dyeability</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p><strong>References</strong></p>
<ol>
<li>SAMANTA, Ashis Kumar and KONAR, Adwaita. Chapter 3. Dyeing of textiles with natural dyes. In: Natural Dyes. Edited by: Emriye Akçakoca Kumbasar. InTech, 2011, p. 29−56, doi: 10.5772/21341.</li>
<li>IBRAHIM, N. A., EL-GAMAL, A. R., GOUDA, M. and MAHROUS, F. A new approach for natural dyeing and functional finishing of cotton cellulose. Carbohydrate Polymers, 2010, 82(4), 1205–1211, doi: 10.1016/j.carbpol.2010.06.054.</li>
<li>LAMBERT, Eva and KENDALL, Tracy. The complete guide to natural dyeing : techniques and recipes for dyeing fabrics, yarns, and fibers at home. Loveland: Interweave Press, 2010, 143 p.</li>
<li>ADEEL, Shahid, BHATTI, Ijaz A., KAUSAR, Afifah and OSMAN, Eman. Influence of UV radiations on the extraction and dyeing of cotton fabric with Curcuma longa L. Indian Journal of Fibre &amp; Textile Research, 2012, 37(1), 87−90.</li>
<li>Turmeric: The genus Curcuma. Edited by P. N. Ravindran, K. Nirmal Babu, K. Sivaraman. Boca Raton : CRC Press, 2007.</li>
<li>EL-SHISHTAWY, Reda M., SHOKRY, G. M., AHMED, Nahed S. E.and KAMEL M. M. Dyeing of modified acrylic fibers with curcumin and madder natural dyes. Fibers and Polymers, 2009, 10(5), 617–624, doi: 0.1007/s12221-010-0617-4.</li>
<li>BHATTI, Ijaz, A., ADEEL, Shahid, JAMAL, M. Asghar, SAFDAR, Muhammad and ABBAS, Muhammad. Influence of gamma radiation on the colour strenght and fastness properties of fabric using turmeric (Curcuma longa L.) as natural dye. Radiation Physics and Chemistry, 2010, 79(5), 622–625, doi: 10.1016/j.radphyschem.2009.12.006.</li>
<li>JAYAPRAKASHA, Guddadarangavvanahally K., RAO, Lingamullu Jagan Mohan and SAKARIAH, Kunnumpurath K. Improved HPLC method for the determination of curcumin, demethoxycurcumin, and bisdemethoxycurcumin. Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry, 2002, 50(13), 3668–3672, doi: 10.1021/jf025506a.</li>
<li>MARGARETA, Sequin-Frey. The chemistry of plant and animal dyes. Journal of Chemical Education, 1981, 58(4), 301–305, doi: 10.1021/ed058p301.</li>
<li>MALEKINA, S. G., MIRZAPOUR, H., NOROUZI, M. Antibacterial properties and color fastness of silk fabric dyed with turmeric extract. Fibers and Polymers, 2013, 14(2), 201–207, doi: 10.1007/s12221-013-0201-9.</li>
<li>MIRJALILI, Mohammad and LOGHMAN, Karimi. Antibacterial dyeing of polyamide using turmeric as natural dye. Autex Research Journal, 2013, 13(2), 51–56, doi: 10.2478/v10304-012-0023-7.</li>
<li>UMBREEN, Saima, SHAUKAT, Ali, TANVEER, Hussain and NAWAZ, Rakhshanda. Dyeing properties of natural dyes extracted from turmeric and their comparison with reactive dyeing. Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, 2008, 12(4), 1–11.</li>
<li>BERGER-SCHUNN, Anni. Practical color measurement : a primer for the beginner : a reminder for the expert. Edited by J. W. Goodman. New York [etc.] : Wiley, 1994.</li>
<li>SIMONČIČ, Barbara. Teoretične osnove barvanja. Ljubljana: Naravoslovnotehniška fakulteta, Oddelek za tekstilstvo, 2009, 120 p.</li>
<li>GRIFONI, Daniele, BACCI, Laura, Di LONARDO, Sara, PINELLI, Patrizia, SCARDIGLI, Arianna, CAMILLI, Francesca, SABATINI, Francesco, ZIPOLI, Gaetano and ROMANI, Annalisa. UV protective properties of cotton and flax fabrics dyed with multifunctional plant extracts. Dyes and Pigments, 2014, 105, 89–96, doi: 10.1016/j.dyepig.2014.01.027.</li>
<li>KAVIRAYANI, Indira Priyadarsini. The chemistry of curcumin: From extraction to therapeutic agent. Molecules, 2014, 19(12), 20091–20112, doi: 10.3390/molecules191220091.</li>
</ol>
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<p>209      <a href="http://www.tekstilec.si/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/209-220.pdf">Treatment of Wastewater Contaminated with Screen Printing Ink</a></p>
<p><span style="color: #ffffff;">………..</span>Maja Klančnik in Meta Batista <span class="collapseomatic " id="id7995"  title="Abstract and References">Abstract and References</span><div id="target-id7995" class="collapseomatic_content ">
<p>University of Ljubljana, Faculty of Natural Sciences and Engineering, Department of Textiles, Graphic Arts and Design, Snežniška 5, SI-1000 Ljubljana</p>
<p>Original Scientific Article</p>
<p>Received 05-2015 • Accepted 08-2015</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p>Corresponding author:</p>
<p><strong>Assist. Prof. D.Sc. Maja Klančnik</strong></p>
<p>Phone: +386 1 200 32 64</p>
<p>E-mail: <a href="mailto:maja.klancnik@ntf.uni-lj.si">maja.klancnik@ntf.uni-lj.si</a></p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p><strong>Abstract</strong></p>
<p>Three different samples of wastewater contaminated with screen printing inks of cyan, magenta, and yellow colour were prepared in two concentrations. The wastewaters were treated with coagulation and flocculation, and comparatively with adsorption. Different concentrations of powdered activated carbon, granulated activated carbon and ground orange peel as an example of cheap and biodegradable adsorbent, were used for adsorption treatment. The efficiencies of the wastewater treatments with coagulation, with a combination of coagulation and flocculation, and with adsorption were evaluated with colour removal of the wastewater by the use of a transmission spectrophotometer and with the removal of organic matter expressed as the total organic carbon (TOC) on the TOC analyzer. The results showed that treatment of the wastewater using coagulation achieved adequate colour reduction (average SAC values at 438 nm 1.2 m<sup>-1</sup>, at 525 nm 0.7 m<sup>-1</sup> and at 620 nm 0.5 m<sup>-1</sup>), as well as adequate removal of organic matter (TOC values below 19 mg C/l) for discharging into the sewage system and surface waters. Further treatment with flocculation did not improve the efficiency of the wastewater treatment. The adsorption on the powdered activated carbon was a little more effective according to the removal of organic matter (TOC values below 3 mg C/l) than coagulation within the wastewaters contaminated with lower concentrations of printing ink, while coagulation was the more effective treatment method in those wastewaters contaminated with higher concentrations of printing ink. Activated granulated carbon proved to be a less efficient adsorbent than the powdered activated carbon. For example it was completely ineffective in the case of magenta printing ink. Ground orange peel was problematic for monitoring the effects of adsorption treatment due to its contribution to the colour and to its high value of total organic carbon (TOC). However, it was proven to be a more effective adsorbent than activated granulated carbon.</p>
<p><strong>Keywords</strong>: screen printing ink, wastewater, treatment, coagulation, adsorption</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p><strong>References</strong></p>
<ol>
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<li>METEŠ, Azra, KOPRIVANAC, Natalija in GLASNOVIC, Antun. Flocculation as a treatment method for printing ink wastewater. Water Enviroment Research, 2000, 72(6), 680–688, doi: 10.2175/106143000&#215;138292.</li>
<li>ROUSSY, J., CHASTELLAN, Philippe, van VOOREN, Maurice in GUIBAL, Eric. Treatment of ink-containing wastewater by coagulation/flocculation using biopolymers. Water SA, 2005, 31(3), 369–376,doi: 10.4314/wsa.v31i3.5208.</li>
<li>KLANČNIK, Maja in ŽIDANIK, Andreja. Coagulation and flocculation process as printing ink wastewater treatment. V 11th International Conference on Printing, Design and Graphic Communications Blaž Baromić, 26.−29 September 2007. Zadar, Croatia, 2007.</li>
<li>KLANČNIK, Maja in URBANC, Meta. Adsorption treatment of printing ink wastewater. V 13th International Conference on Printing, Design and Graphic Communications Blaž Baromić. Uredil Z. Bolanča. Zagreb : University of Zagreb, Faculty of Graphic Arts, 2009, 79–82.</li>
<li>KLANČNIK, Maja in ŽUVELA, Tanja. Treatment of wastewater containing flexographic printing ink by activated carbon and orange peel. V 5th International Symposium on Novelties and Graphics. Uredila Barbara Simončič. Ljubljana : Naravoslovnotehniška fakulteta, 2010, 846–850.</li>
<li>KLANČNIK, Maja. Coagulation and adsorption treatment of printing ink wastewater, Acta Graphica, 25(3–4), 2014, 73–82.</li>
<li>TREBIŽAN, Uroš. Čiščenje odpadne vode pri tiskanju s pigmentnimi barvili : diplomsko delo. Ljubljana. Univerza v Ljubljani, Naravoslovnotehniška fakulteta, Oddelek za tekstilstvo, 2002.</li>
<li>MCKAY, G.E.L., GEUNDI, M.S. in NASSAR, M.M. Equilibrium studies during the removal of dyestuff from aqueous solution using bagasse pith. Water Research, 1987, 21(12), 1513–1520, doi: 10.1016/0043-1354(87)90135-7.</li>
<li>AZHAR, Saiful S., LIEW, A. Ghaniey, SUHARDY, D., HAFIZ, K. Farizul in HATIM, M. D. Irfan. Dye removal from aqueous solution by using adsorption on treated sugarcane bagasse. American Journal of Applied Sciences, 2005, 2(11), 1499–1503, doi: 10.3844/ajassp.2005.1499.1503.</li>
<li>SIVARAJ, Rajeshwari, NAMASIVAYAM, C. in KADIRVELU, K. Orange peel as an adsorbent in the removal of Acid violet 17 (acid dye) from aqueous solutions. Waste Management, 2001, 21(1), 105–110, doi: <a href="http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/s0956-053x(00)00076-3">10.1016/s0956-053x(00)00076-3</a>.</li>
<li>ARAMI, Mokhtar, LIMAEE, Narggess Yousefi, MAHMOODI, Niyaz Mohammad in TABRIZI, Nooshin Salman. Removal of dyes from colored textile wastewater by orange peel adsorbent: Equilibrium and kinetics studies. Journal of Colloid and Interface Science, 2005, 288(2), 371–376, doi: 10.1016/j.jcis.2005.03.020.</li>
<li>BENAÏSSA. H. Removal of acid dyes from aqueous solutions using orange peel as a sorbent material. Ninth International Water Technology Conference, IWTC9, 2005, Sharm El-Sheikh, Egypt, p. 1175–1187. Dostopno na svetovnem spletu: &lt;<a href="http://iwtc.info/2005_pdf/17-3.pdf">http://iwtc.info/2005_pdf/17-3.pdf</a>&gt;.</li>
<li>ARDEJANI, Doulati F., BADII, Kh., LIMAEE, N. Yousefi, MAHMOODI, N. M., ARAMI, M., SHAFAEI, S. Z. in MIRHABIBI, A. R. Numerical modelling and laboratory studies on the removal of Direct Red 23 and Direct Red 80 dyes from textile effluents using orange peel, a low-cost adsorbent. Dyes and Pigments, 2007, 73(2), 178–185, doi: :10.1016/j.dyepig.2005.11.011.</li>
<li>VASANTH KUMAR, K. in PORKODI, K. Batch adsorber design for different solution volume/adsorbent mass ratios using the experimental equilibrium data with fixed solution volume/adsorbent mass ratio of malachite green onto orange peel. Dyes and Pigments, 2007, 74(3), 590–594, doi: 10.1016/j.dyepig.2006.03.024.</li>
<li>OLAJIRE, A. A., GIWA A. A. in BELLO, L. A. Competitive adsorption of dye species from aqueos solution onto melon husk in single and ternary dye system. International Journal of Environmental Science and Technology, 2015, 12(3), 939–950, doi: 10.1007/s13762-013-0469-8.</li>
<li>TABOR, Tanja in KLANČNIK, Maja. Adsorption of printing ink from wastewater. V: Proceedings. 7th Symposium of Information and Graphic Arts Technology, Ljubljana, 5–6 June 2014. Uredila Raša URBAS. Ljubljana: Naravoslovnotehniška fakulteta, Oddelek za tekstilstvo, 2014, 235–240.</li>
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		<description><![CDATA[Tekstilec, Vol. 58, 2015(2)    CONTENTS &#160; SCIENTIFIC ARTICLES 100      Analyses of Colour Appearances on Different Display Devices &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..Dejana Javoršek, Janja Močnik, Marica Starešinič 108      Skewnes and Spirality of Knitted Structures &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..Alenka Pavko-Čuden 121      The Influence of External Factors on Contact Colour Measurement of the Human Skin &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..Elizabeta Jevnikar, Dejana Javoršek, Sabina Bračko &#160; PROFESSIONAL ARTICLE 135      Influence of the Washing Process and the Perspiration Effects on the Qualities of Printed Textile Substrates &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..Mladen Stančić1, Dragana Grujić2, Nemanja Kašiković3, Dragoljub Novaković3, Branka Ružičić1, &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..Rastko Milošević3]]></description>
				<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Tekstilec, Vol. <strong>58</strong>, 2015(2)</p>
<p><strong> </strong></p>
<p><strong> CONTENTS</strong></p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p><strong>SCIENTIFIC ARTICLES</strong></p>
<p>100      <a href="http://www.tekstilec.si/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/100-107.pdf">Analyses of Colour Appearances on Different Display Devices</a></p>
<p><span style="color: #ffffff;">&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..</span>Dejana Javoršek, Janja Močnik, Marica Starešinič <span class="collapseomatic " id="id1041"  title="Abstract and References">Abstract and References</span><div id="target-id1041" class="collapseomatic_content ">
<p>University of Ljubljana, Faculty of Natural Sciences and Engineering, Department of Textiles, Snežniška ulica 5, SI-1000 Ljubljana</p>
<p>Original Scientific Article</p>
<p>Received 03-2015 • Accepted 04-2015</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p>Corresponding author:</p>
<p><strong>Assis. Prof. D.Sc. Dejana Javoršek</strong></p>
<p>E-mail: <a href="mailto:dejana.javorsek@ntf.uni-lj.si">dejana.javorsek@ntf.uni-lj.si</a></p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p><strong>Abstract</strong></p>
<p>Displaying desired colours on the screen via the web is still a crucial part of being successful for artists and photographers. The aim of our research was to compare accuracies and varieties of displayed colours on different devices and variations on the same device. Seven Apple display screens of various devices were analysed (iPad 2, iPad 3, iPad Mini, iPhone 4, iPhone 5, iMac and MacBook Pro) using two different browsers Safari and Chrome. For iMac display proﬁle iMac, and for MacBook Pro display proﬁle Colour LCD were used. The colour gamuts shown in CIE 1931 x, y and the CIELAB colour diagram were compared with the standard colour space sRGB. The results show that the appearances of colours on different devices are mostly dependent on screen quality. The appearances of colours are largely inﬂuenced by the choices of browsers for devices that support colour proﬁles. In regard to devices with included colour proﬁles within their displays, it is important to choose a browser that enables colour management to take into account the display colour proﬁle. In our case, the Safari browser takes into account the speciﬁc display proﬁle whilst Chrome does not consider those proﬁle. However the results also depend on other factors. These results are important for graphics and fashion designers as well as textile technologists, who present their work and products to their potential clients on different devices.</p>
<p><strong>Keywords</strong>: colour management, browser, display devices, colour spaces</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p><strong>References</strong></p>
<ol>
<li>WONG, Alice. Colour Management for Web Browsers [online], <em>Graphic Comunication</em>, Senior project 2010, College of Liberal Arts, California Polytechnic State University, 2010, [accessed 28.5.2014]. Available on World Wide Web: &lt;<a href="http://digitalcommons.calpoly.edu/grcsp/29/">http://digitalcommons.calpoly.edu/grcsp/29/</a>&gt;.</li>
<li>JAVORŠEK, Dejana, MUCK, Tadeja in KARLOVIĆ, Igor. Reproduciranje barv in barvno upravljanje<em>. </em>Ljubljana: Univerza v Ljubljani, Naravoslovnotehniška fakulteta, Oddelek za tekstilstvo, 2013, pp. 275.</li>
<li>Smartphone Users Worldwide Will Total 1.75 Billion in 2014 [online], <em>emarketer.com/Article/Smartphone-Users-Worldwide-Will-Total-175-Billion-2014</em> [accessed 16.2.2014]. Available on World Wide Web: &lt;<a href="http://www.emarketer.com/Article/Smartphone-Users-Worldwide-Will-Total-175-Billion-2014/1010536">http://www.emarketer.com/Article/Smartphone-Users-Worldwide-Will-Total-175-Billion-2014/1010536</a>&gt;.</li>
<li>SHANKAR, Venkatesh, VENKATESH, Alladi, HOFACKER, Charles and NAIK, Prasad. Mobile marketing in the retailing environment: current insights and future research avenues. <em>Journal of interactive marketing</em>, 2010, <strong>24</strong>(2), 111–120, <a href="http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.intmar.2010.02.006">http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.intmar.2010.02.006</a>.</li>
<li>KERBS, W. Robert. An Empirical Comparison of User Color Preferences in Electronic Interface Design [online], California State Polytechnic University, 2003 [accessed 16.2.2014]. Available on World Wide Web: &lt;<a href="http://www.hft.org/HFT03/paper03/05_Ker.pdf">http://www.hft.org/HFT03/paper03/05_Ker.pdf</a>&gt;.</li>
<li>PRASAD, Shitala; KUMAR, Piyush; SINHA, Kumari Priyanka. Grayscale to Color Map Transformation for Efficient Image Analysis on Low Processing Devices. In: <em>Advances in Intelligent Informatics</em>. Editor: El-Sayed M. El-Alfy et al., Springer International Publishing Switzerland, 2015, 9–18, <a href="http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-11218-3_2">http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-11218-3_2</a>.</li>
<li>ICC Colour Management [online], <em>International Colour Consortium</em> [accessed 16.2.2014]. Available on World Wide Web: &lt;<a href="http://www.colour.org/slidepres2003.pdf">http://www.colour.org/slidepres2003.pdf</a>&gt;.</li>
<li>ZORIĆ, Vladimir and KARLOVIĆ, Igor. Color Reproduction on Tablet Devices, <em>Acta Graphica</em>, 2014, <strong>25</strong>(1–2), 31-36.</li>
<li>DUGGAN, Seán. Colour management: Use the correct ICC profile for web images [online]. [accessed 12.4.2014]. Available on World Wide Web: &lt;<a href="http://www.seanduggan.com/technique/downloads/ICCprofiles_web_images.pdf">http://www.seanduggan.com/technique/downloads/ICCprofiles_web_images.pdf</a>&gt;.</li>
<li>LIPERA, Roger. Introduction to Colour &amp; the Web [online]. <em>Interactive Media Center</em>, University at Albany [accessed 1.3.2015]. Available on World Wide Web: &lt;<a href="http://library.albany.edu/imc/webcolor/color3_3.html">http://library.albany.edu/imc/webcolor/color3_3.html</a>&gt;.</li>
<li>PREISTER, Gary W. Htmlgoodies. Consistent Colors For Your Site &#8211; All You Need To Know About Web Safe Colors [online]. <em>HTMLGoodies Staff</em> [accessed 12.3.2014]. Available on World Wide Web: &lt;<a href="http://www.htmlgoodies.com/tutorials/web_graphics/consistent-colors-for-your-site-all-you-need-to-know-about-web-safe-colors.html">http://www.htmlgoodies.com/tutorials/web_graphics/consistent-colors-for-your-site-all-you-need-to-know-about-web-safe-colors.html</a>&gt;.</li>
<li>TINDEMANS, Simon. Web browser colour management [online]. <em>Initial publication, </em>2012 [accessed 15.2.2013]. Available on World Wide Web: &lt;<a href="http://simon.tindemans.eu/cm/webcm">http://simon.tindemans.eu/cm/webcm</a>&gt;.</li>
<li>PILI, Fábio. Web browser colour management guide [online]. <em>Published by Fábio Pili, </em>2010 [accessed 1.3.2015]. Available on World Wide Web: &lt;<a href="http://cameratico.com/guides/web-browser-color-management-guide">http://cameratico.com/guides/web-browser-color-management-guide</a>&gt;.</li>
<li>Colour Management in Safari [online]. <em>Technical Note TN2220, Safari Developer Library</em> [accessed 1.3.2015]. Available on World Wide Web: &lt;<a href="https://developer.apple.com/library/safari/technotes/tn2220/_index.html">https://developer.apple.com/library/safari/technotes/tn2220/_index.html</a>&gt;.</li>
</ol>
<hr />
</div>
<p>108      <a href="http://www.tekstilec.si/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/108-120.pdf">Skewnes and Spirality of Knitted Structures</a></p>
<p><span style="color: #ffffff;">&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..</span>Alenka Pavko-Čuden <span class="collapseomatic " id="id9677"  title="Abstract and References">Abstract and References</span><div id="target-id9677" class="collapseomatic_content ">
<p>University of Ljubljana, Faculty of Natural Sciences and Engineering, Department of Textiles, Snežniška ulica 5, SI-1000 Ljubljana</p>
<p>Scientific Review</p>
<p>Received 04-2014 • Accepted 05-2015</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p>Corresponding author:</p>
<p><strong>Assoc. Prof. D.Sc. Alenka Pavko Čuden</strong></p>
<p>Tel.: +386 1 200 32 16</p>
<p>E-mail: <a href="mailto:alenka.cuden@ntf.uni-lj.si">alenka.cuden@ntf.uni-lj.si</a></p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p><strong>Abstract</strong></p>
<p>Weft knitted structures are affected by various forms of dimensional distortion. Inclination and distortion of loops within knitted structures are commonly known as skewness and spirality, respectfuly. Causes of skewness and spirality have been thoroughly investigated, analyzed and classiﬁed. They can basically be divided into two groups: material causes and process causes. One of the material causes is yarn related and is caused by residual torque in the yarn shown by its twist-liveliness. One of the more important process causes is machine related and is connected to knitting with multiple feeders on the circular knitting machine. Skewness and spirality have been subjects of research for almost a century. Models have been developed for understanding and predicting the loop distortion phenomena. Procedures for reduction or even elimination of the skewness/spirality have continuously been developed and improved. Some of them include changes in raw material, the others in mechanical processes and/or equipment while the other again concentrate on after-treatments. Many standards and other testing methods for measuring the skewness and spirality have been used in research and industrial practice. The uses of many terms describing this phenomenon have shown the continuous importance of the skewness/spirality problem on the one hand and the inconsistency of the terminology on the other.</p>
<p><strong>Keywords</strong>: knitting, knitted fabric, skewness, spirality, loop inclination, yarn liveliness, residual torque</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p><strong>References</strong></p>
<ol>
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<li><em>Textiles – determination of spirality after laundering. Percentage of wale spirality change in knitted garments</em>. Part 1. ISO 1332:2005. 4p.</li>
<li><em>Textiles – determination of spirality after laundering. Woven and knitted fabrics</em>. Part 2. ISO 1332:2005. 21 p.</li>
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<li>ASIF, A., RAHMAN, M., FARHA, F.I. Effect of knitted structure on the properties of knitted fabric. <em>International Journal of Science and Research</em>, 2015, <strong>4</strong>(1), 1231–1235.</li>
<li>MAVRUZ MEZARCIÖZ, Serin, OĞULATA, R. Tuğrul. The use of the Taguchi design of experiment method in optimizing spirality angle of single jersey fabrics. <em>Tekstil ve Konfeksiyon</em>, 2011, <strong>21</strong>(4), 374–380.</li>
</ol>
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</div>
<p>121      <a href="http://www.tekstilec.si/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/121-134.pdf">The Influence of External Factors on Contact Colour Measurement of the Human Skin</a></p>
<p><span style="color: #ffffff;">&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..</span>Elizabeta Jevnikar, Dejana Javoršek, Sabina Bračko <span class="collapseomatic " id="id7104"  title="Abstract and References">Abstract and References</span><div id="target-id7104" class="collapseomatic_content ">
<p>University of Ljubljana, Faculty of Natural Sciences and Engineering, Department of Textiles, Snežniška ulica 5, SI-1000 Ljubljana</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p>Original Scientific Article</p>
<p>Received 03-2014 • Accepted 05-2015</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p>Corresponding author:</p>
<p><strong>Assoc. Prof. D.Sc. Sabina Bračko</strong></p>
<p>Tel.: +386 1 200 32 38</p>
<p>E-mail: <a href="mailto:sabina.bracko@ntf.uni-lj.si">sabina.bracko@ntf.uni-lj.si</a></p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p><strong>Abstract</strong></p>
<p>Human skin is a complex and unpredictable organ. Its colour can be objectively evaluated by using the colour measurement methods. The results of the measurements are affected by many factors, the impacts of which are not fully deﬁned as yet. Certain factors directly determining the colour of the skin are dependent upon the individual and cannot be controlled. The emphasis of the research was on the second group of factors that refer to the measurement conditions and are variable and adaptable. The aim of the research was to examine the impact of the number of consecutive measurements, the selection of a body part, location of the selected area within a speciﬁc part of the body, the size of the measuring aperture, and the temperature on skin colour. The appropriateness of the instruments and repeatability of the results were also assessed, depending on the number of consecutive measurements and the selected size of the measuring aperture. The measurements were performed using two different reﬂectance spectrophotometers with the participation of a total of 6 volunteers. Within the measurements, the above-mentioned conditions were gradually changed and the results were given in the form of reﬂection values, CIEL*a*b* coordinates, colour difference ∆E*<sub>ab</sub>, lightness difference ∆L*, chroma difference ∆C*<sub>ab</sub> and hue difference ∆H*<sub>ab</sub> within the CIELAB colour space. All of the examined factors were proved to have major impacts on the results of the measurements of skin colour. The results showed that performing 10 successive measurements at one point is suffcient for good repeatability. In order to achieve high repeatability be advised against selecting a small measuring aperture. Speciﬁcally deﬁning the part of the body and the individual points of measurement is recommended depending on the purpose of the measurement and maintaining such an ambient temperature so as to avoid hampering the normal temperature of the skin’s surface.</p>
<p><strong>Keywords</strong>: human skin, skin colour, colorimetry, spectrophotometry, CIELAB colour space</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p><strong>References</strong></p>
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</ol>
<hr />
</div>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p><strong>PROFESSIONAL ARTICLE</strong></p>
<p>135      <a href="http://www.tekstilec.si/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/135-1421.pdf">Influence of the Washing Process and the Perspiration Effects on the Qualities of Printed Textile Substrates</a></p>
<p><span style="color: #ffffff;">&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..</span>Mladen Stančić1, Dragana Grujić2, Nemanja Kašiković3, Dragoljub Novaković3, Branka Ružičić1,</p>
<p><span style="color: #ffffff;">&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..</span>Rastko Milošević3 <span class="collapseomatic " id="id5145"  title="Abstract and References">Abstract and References</span><div id="target-id5145" class="collapseomatic_content ">
<p><sup>1</sup>University of Banja Luka, Faculty of Technology, Department of Graphic Engineering</p>
<p><sup>2</sup>University of Banja Luka, Faculty of Technology, Department of Textile Engineering</p>
<p><sup>3</sup>University Of Novi Sad, Faculty Of Technical Science, Department Of Graphic Engineering And Design</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p>Professional article</p>
<p>Received 07-2014 • /Accepted 12-2014</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p>Corresponding author:</p>
<p><strong>MSc Mladen Stančić</strong></p>
<p>E-mail: <a href="mailto:mladen.stancic@unibl.rs">mladen.stancic@unibl.rs</a></p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p><strong>Abstract</strong></p>
<p>Clothes are exposed to different impacts during usages and maintenance. The more frequent impacts on textile materials are the washing processes and the perspiration effects. These mentioned effects are the causes of speciﬁc changes of the textile ﬁbres and on colour reproduction on printed materials. This paper presents research into the impacts of a series of washing and perspiration effects on the colour reproduction studied with a spectrophotometric analysis and the water retention capacities of the prints using the screen-printing technique. The research results indicate that with the increase in the number of washes, major changes occurred in the reproduced colours compared to the colours of the samples that did not undergo the process of washing. It was determined that, besides the series of washings, the perspiration effects also had an impact on the reproduced colour changes. The impacts were also affrmed of printing and a series of washings on water retention on textile materials.</p>
<p><strong>Keywords</strong>: screen-printing, washing process, perspiration effects, print quality, colour reproduction, water retention capacity</p>
<p><strong>References</strong></p>
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</ol>
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		<description><![CDATA[CONTENTS &#160; SCIENTIFIC ARTICLES 4     Effects and Risks of Nanotechnologies and Nanomaterials on Environment and Human Health &#8230;&#8230;Aljoša Košak1,2, Marijana Lakić1 in Aleksandra Lobnik1,2   23   The Influence of Modacrylic and Metal Protective Fibres in the Mixture on the Mechanical Properties &#8230;&#8230;of Ring-Spun Yarns for Protective Textiles &#8230;&#8230;Dunja Šajn Gorjanc1, Neža Sukič1 and Veronika Vrhunc2   33   The Effects of Lipase and Cutinase Enzyme Surface Treatments on Light Reflectance and Colour Changes &#8230;&#8230;in Non-Circular Cross-Sectional Polyester &#8230;&#8230;Xiaosong Liu1,2, Ian R. Hardin1 and Fumei Wang2,3  47   Application of Cellulases in the Process of Finishing &#8230;&#8230;Kristina Šimić, Ivo Soljačić and Tanja Pušić  ]]></description>
				<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><b>CONTENTS</b></p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p><b>SCIENTIFIC ARTICLES</b></p>
<p>4     <a href="http://www.tekstilec.si/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/4-22.pdf">Effects and Risks of Nanotechnologies and Nanomaterials on Environment and Human Health</a></p>
<p><span style="color: #ffffff;">&#8230;&#8230;</span>Aljoša Košak<sup>1,2</sup>, Marijana Lakić<sup>1</sup> in Aleksandra Lobnik<sup>1,2</sup>  <span class="collapseomatic " id="id8382"  title="Abstract and References">Abstract and References</span><div id="target-id8382" class="collapseomatic_content ">
<p><sup>1</sup>Univerza v Mariboru, Fakulteta za strojništvo, Smetanova 17, 2000 Maribor</p>
<p><sup>2</sup>IOS, d. o. o., Inšitut za okoljevarstvo in senzorje, Beloruska 7, 2000 Maribor</p>
<p>Scientific Review</p>
<p>Received 10-2014 • Accepted 02-2015</p>
<p>Corresponding author:</p>
<p><b>Prof. D.Sc. Aleksandra Lobnik</b></p>
<p>Tel.: +386 2 220 79 12</p>
<p>E-mail: <a href="mailto:lobnikaleksandra@gmail.com">lobnikaleksandra@gmail.com</a></p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p><b>Abstract</b></p>
<p>Development of nanomaterials and their use in the textile field is opening new opportunities for products with special functional and technological features; however, there is also expressed concern over the environmental and human health aspects of nanomaterials. This paper discusses the environmental impacts and health risks of nanomaterials commonly used in textiles, e.g. silver nanoparticles (Ag), silica nanoparticles (SiO<sub>2</sub>), titanium dioxide nanoparticles (TiO<sub>2</sub>), zinc oxide nanoparticles (ZnO), nanoparticles of aluminum oxide (Al<sub>2</sub>O<sub>3</sub>), carbon-black nanoparticles, montmorillonite and carbon nanotubes (CNT).</p>
<p><b>Keywords</b>: nanotechnology, nanomaterials, product life cycle, silver nanoparticles, silica nanoparticles, titanium dioxide nanoparticles, zinc oxide nanoparticles, aluminum oxide nanoparticles, montmorillonite, carbon nanotubes, toxicity</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p><b>References</b></p>
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</ol>
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</div>
<p>23   <a href="http://www.tekstilec.si/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/23-32.pdf">The Influence of Modacrylic and Metal Protective Fibres in the Mixture on the Mechanical Properties</a></p>
<p><span style="color: #ffffff;">&#8230;&#8230;</span><a href="http://www.tekstilec.si/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/23-32.pdf">of Ring-Spun Yarns for Protective Textiles</a></p>
<p><span style="color: #ffffff;">&#8230;&#8230;</span>Dunja Šajn Gorjanc<sup>1</sup>, Neža Sukič<sup>1</sup> and Veronika Vrhunc<sup>2</sup>  <span class="collapseomatic " id="id5408"  title="Abstract and References">Abstract and References</span><div id="target-id5408" class="collapseomatic_content ">
<p><sup>1</sup>University of Ljubljana, Faculty of Natural Sciences and Engineering, Department of Textiles, Snežniška ulica 5, SI-1000 Ljubljana</p>
<p><sup>2</sup>Predilnica Litija, Kidričeva 1, SI-1270 Litija</p>
<p>Original Scientific Article</p>
<p>Received 01-2015 • Accepted 02-2015</p>
<p>Corresponding author:</p>
<p><b>Assis. Prof. D.Sc. Dunja Šajn Gorjanc</b></p>
<p>E-mail: <a href="mailto:dunja.sajn@ntf.uni-lj.si">dunja.sajn@ntf.uni-lj.si</a></p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p><b>Abstract</b></p>
<p>The research is focused on the inﬂuence of the ﬁre resistant modacrylic (MAC) ﬁbres in the ring-spun yarn mixture with cotton (CO) ﬁbres and of the conductive metal ﬁbres (MTF) in the ring-spun yarn mixture with polyester (PES) ﬁbres on the mechanical properties in the region of lower loads. Analysed yarns are intended for the protective clothing production (ﬁre resistant and electrically conductive clothing). The viscoelastic behavior of yarns in the ﬁeld of lower loads under the speciﬁc stress/extension curve which amounts to 5 cN/tex, reaching the weight of 85 g. The results of the research show that the incorporation of MAC ﬁbres in the yarn from the mixture of 55% MAC/45% CO ﬁbres increases the region of elastic deformations (the stress and extension in the yield point), on the other side the MAC ﬁbres in the yarn mixture decrease the elasticity modulus level. The incorporation of MTF (stainless stell) ﬁbres in the yarn mixture consisting of 75% PES/25% MTF decreases the region of elastic deformations (about 10%), however the region of elastic deformations lies very close to the chosen stress value under the speciﬁc stress/extension curve – 5 cN/tex or 85 g.</p>
<p><b>Keywords:</b> modacrylic ﬁbres, metal ﬁbres, ring-spun yarn, mechanical properties, viscoelastic properties</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p><b>References</b></p>
<ol>
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</ol>
<hr />
</div>
<p>33   <a href="http://www.tekstilec.si/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/33-46.pdf">The Effects of Lipase and Cutinase Enzyme Surface Treatments on Light Reflectance and Colour Changes</a></p>
<p><span style="color: #ffffff;">&#8230;&#8230;</span><a href="http://www.tekstilec.si/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/33-46.pdf">in Non-Circular Cross-Sectional Polyester</a></p>
<p><span style="color: #ffffff;">&#8230;&#8230;</span>Xiaosong Liu<sup>1,2</sup>, Ian R. Hardin<sup>1</sup> and Fumei Wang<sup>2,3</sup> <span class="collapseomatic " id="id8486"  title="Abstract and References">Abstract and References</span><div id="target-id8486" class="collapseomatic_content ">
<p><sup>1</sup>The University of Georgia, College of Family and Consumer Science, Department of Textiles, Merchandising and Interiors, Athens, GA 30602, USA</p>
<p><sup>2</sup>Donghua University, College of Textiles, Shanghai 201620, People’s Republic of China</p>
<p><sup>3</sup>Key Lab of Textile Science and Technology, Ministry of Education, Shanghai 201620, People’s Republic of China</p>
<p>Original Scientific Article</p>
<p>Received 09-2014 • Accepted 01-2015</p>
<p>Corresponding author:</p>
<p><b>Xiaosong Liu</b></p>
<p>Tel.: 00 1 404 86 13681956267</p>
<p>E-mail: <a href="mailto:xiaosongliu7405@aiyun.com">xiaosongliu7405@aiyun.com</a></p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p><b>Abstract</b></p>
<p>Lipase and cutinase enzymes were applied to non-circular cross-sectional polyester fibres. Reflectance and colour changes of the fibres were investigated under specific treatment conditions. The results indicated that lipase L0777 did not affect these fibres, regardless of time of treatment or changes in pH. With cutinase, pits on the surfaces of the fibres occurred when cutinase was applied at 55<sup>o</sup>C and pH of 7.00 and 8.50, respectively, for 24 hours. This was demonstrated by reflectance and colour changes, as well as by SEM images. The wide-angled x-ray diffraction (WAXD) curves of the cutinase-treated fabrics were ambiguous in that the small changes may have been the result of heat rather than enzyme treatment. Differential scanning calorimetry (DCS) results for both untreated and cutinase-treated polyester fibres showed obvious changes. The peak at 250<sup>o</sup>C did not change but that at 265<sup>o</sup>C increased in area, indicating re-crystallisation.</p>
<p><b>Keywords: </b>reflectance, colour, lipase, cutinase, polyester fabric</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
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<p>47   <a href="http://www.tekstilec.si/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/47-56.pdf">Application of Cellulases in the Process of Finishing </a></p>
<p><span style="color: #ffffff;">&#8230;&#8230;</span>Kristina Šimić, Ivo Soljačić and Tanja Pušić  <span class="collapseomatic " id="id5385"  title="Abstract and References">Abstract and References</span><div id="target-id5385" class="collapseomatic_content ">
<p>University of Zagreb, Faculty of Textile Technology, Department of Textile Chemistry and Ecology, Prilaz baruna Filipovića 28a, HR-10 000 Zagreb, Croatia</p>
<p>Scientific Review</p>
<p>Received 06-2014 • Accepted 01-2015</p>
<p>Corresponding author<i>:</i></p>
<p><b>Kristina Šimić, B.Sc.</b></p>
<p>Tel.: 00 385 148 77 353</p>
<p>E-mail: <a href="mailto:kristina.simic@ttf.hr">kristina.simic@ttf.hr</a></p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p><b>Abstract</b></p>
<p>Cellulases are enzymes that are used for surface modification of cellulosic materials primarily in finishing. It is multi-component enzymatic system which hydrolyzes cellulose chains, on the surface of the fibers, to glucose. With their application in finishing of textiles, surface fibres are removed and surface of treated textiles becomes smooth. The most important application is in the processing of denim providing special effects, without significant fabric loss of strength. As enzymes are effective over mild conditions of pH and temperatures and they are easy biodegradable.</p>
<p><b>Keywords:</b> enzymes, cellulases, textile fibres, finishing</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p><b>References</b></p>
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