*Technical University of Kenya, P. O. Box 52428 (00200), Nairobi, Kenya

**School of Engineering, Moi University, P. O. Box 3900 (30100), Eldoret, Kenya

 

Izvirni znanstveni članek

Prispelo 06-2015 • Sprejeto 10-2015

 

Korespondenčni avtor:

Edison Omollo Oduor

Telefon: +254721857685

E-pošta: edisonomollo@gmail.com ali igadwa@gmail.com

 

Izvleček

Trajnost tekstilnih materialov, ki med svojo uporabo pridejo v direktni stik z zemljo, se tradicionalno meri s pomočjo preskusa z zakopavanjem v zemljo (BS 6085: 1992). Skladno s standardom BS 6085 so premazane tekstilije navadno zakopane v standardnih pogojih v zemljo 28 dni, medtem ko so nepremazane zakopane 14 dni, predno se ocenjuje poslabšanje. Poskus traja predolgo, kar posledično odvrača mnoge poslovneže in proizvajalce, za katere je hitrost ključnega pomena. Slednji zato pogosto preskočijo sam poskus. Raziskava preiskuje učinke različnih obdelav z zemljo na trdnost platna med preskusom z zakopavanjem v zemljo. Spremembe v trdnosti platna, ki je bilo zakopano v zemlji, so bile raziskovane z dodajanjem kravjega gnoja, kokošjega gnoja ter krompirjevih olupkov z nadzorovanim dodajanjem vode. Izsledki raziskave nakazujejo, da lahko nadzorovano dodajanje vode vodi v 10–90 % spremembo v trdnosti zakopanega platna, odvisno od vrste gnojila. Pri obravnavi različnih vrst gnojil (z vodnimi primesmi) je trdnost padla za 70 %, 80 % in 90 % pri nekultivirani zemlji, zemlji s kravjim oziroma kokošjim gnojem. Podobni trendi so bili zabeleženi tudi za izgubo trdnosti v smeri votka. Faktor znižanja trdnosti, ki upošteva izgubo trdnosti platna, ki je bilo izpostavljeno različno obdelani zemlji v primerjavi z neobdelano zemljo (brez vode), nakazuje, da je faktor znižanja trdnosti pri kokošjem gnoju (z dodatkom vode) 8,32, medtem ko je pri nekultivirani zemlji (z dodatkom vode) 6.

Ključne besede: preskus z zakopavanjem v zemljo, platno, mikrobno poslabšanje, obdelovanje zemlje

 

Viri

1. ELSHAFEI, Ali and EL-ZANFALY H. T. Application of antimicrobials in the development of textiles. Asian Journal of Applied Science, 2011, 4, 585─595, doi: 10.3923/ajaps.2011.585.595.
2. TOMŠIČ, Brigita, KLEMENČIČ, Danijela, SIMONČIČ, Barbara and OREL, Boris. Influence of antimicrobial finishes on the biodeterioration of cotton and cotton/polyester fabrics: leaching versus bio-barrier formation. Polymer Degradation and Stability, 2011, 96(7), 1286─1296, doi:10.1016/j.polymdegradstab.2011.04.004.
3. BS 6085 Methods for determination of the resistance of textiles to microbiological deterioration. British Standard Institute. London, 1992.
4. ISO 5081 Textiles – Woven fabrics — Determination of breaking strength and elongation (Strip method). International Organisation for Standardization, 1977.
5. Canvas [online], [accessed 11. 3. 2014]. Available on World Wide Web: <http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Canvas>.
6. PELCZAR, Micheal Joseph, CHIN SUN CHAN, Eddie and KRIEG, Noel R. Microbiology: Concepts and Applications. 1st. ed. New York : McGraw-Hill, 1993.
7. Manure. [online], [accessed 11. 3. 2014]. Available on World Wide Web: <http://www.wikipedia.com/manure>.
8. CHANDRA, R. and RUSTGI, R. Biodegradable polymers. Progress in Polymer Science, 1998, 23(7), 1273─1335, doi:10.1016/S0079-6700(97)00039-7.
9. COYNE, Mark S. Soil microbiology: An exploratory approach. Albany et al.: Delmar Publishers, 1999.
10. LATTER, P. M., BANCROFT, G and GILLESPIE, J. Technical aspects of the cotton strip assay in soils. International Biodeterioration, 1988, 24(1), 25─47, doi: 10.1016/0265-3036(88)90073-5.
11. Chicken manure. [online], [accessed 11. 3. 2014]. Available on World Wide Web: <http://www.ctahr.hawaii.edu/oc/freepubs/pdf/GHGS-02.pdf>.
12. RUSCHMEYER, O. R. and SCHMIDT, E. L. Cellulose Decomposition in soil burial beds: II. Cellulolytic activity as influenced by alteration of soil properties. Applied Microbiology, 1958, 6(2), 115.
13. CLARKE, Antony J. Biodegradation of cellulose: enzymology and biotechnology. Basel: Technomic Publishing, 1996.

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*National Institute of Technology Jalandhar, Department of Textile Technology, Punjab 144011, India

**National Institute of Technology Jalandhar, Department of Mechanical Engineering, Punjab 144011, India

Izvirni znanstveni članek

Prispelo 05-2015 • Sprejeto 10-2015

 

Korespondenčni avtor:

Himansu Shekhar Mohapatra

E-pošta: himansu4@gmail.com

 

Izvleček

Raziskava se osredotoča na razvoj in karakterizacijo filma, izdelanega iz ekstrakta lupine limete, ki je dobro poznana po svojih antioksidativnih ter protimikrobnih lastnostih. Vključuje pripravo filma s pomočjo tehnike vlivanja raztopine in karakterizacijske teste IR spektroskopijo, rentgensko difrakcijo in toplotno obnašanje z dinamično kalorimetrijo (DSC) in termogravimetrično analizo (TGA). Analizirane so bile tudi antibakterijske lastnosti filma. Opredeljene so bile funkcionalne skupine celuloze, hemiceluloze in lignina ter polifenolnih spojin – flavonoidov. Film se ponaša z odlično protimikrobno lastnostjo za E. Coli in S. Aureus seve.

Ključne besede: antibakterijski, lupina limete, film, FTIR, DSC, TGA, XRD

 

Viri

1. The wealth of India: A dictionary of Indian raw materials and industrial products. Revised series. Vol. III (Ca-Ci). New Delhi: Information and Publications Directorate, CSIR, 1992, 3, p. 623.
2. TIAN, Q., MILLER, E. G., AHMAD, H., TANG, L, PATIL, B. S. Differential inhibition of human cancer cell proliferation by citrus limonoids. Nutrition and Cancer, 2001, 40(2), 180‒184, doi: 1207/S15327914NC402_15.
3. HASEGAWA, S., BERHOW, Miyake, A., FONG, C. H. Analysis of bitter principles in Modern methods of plant analysis. Fruit Analysis. Berlin, Heidelberg: Springer-Verlag, 1996.
4. POULOSE Shibu M., HARRIS, E. D., PATIL, B. S. Antiproliferative effects of citrus limonoids against human neuroblastoma and colonic adenocarcinoma cells. Nutrition and Cancer, 2006, 56(1), 103‒112, doi: 1207/s15327914nc5601_14.
5. VANAMALA, Jairam, LEONARDI, Tety, PATIL, Bhimanagouda S., TADDEO, Stella S., MURPHY, Mary E., PIKE, Leonard M., CHAPKIN, Robert S., LUPTON, Joanne R., TURNER, Nancy D. Suppression of colon carcinogenesis by bioactive compounds in grapefruit. Carcinogenesis, 2006, 27(6), 1257‒1265, doi: 1093/carcin/bgi318.
6. HAAZ, S., FONTAINE, K. R., CUTTER, G., LIMDI, N., PERUMEAN-CHANEY, S., ALLISON, D. B. Citrus aurantium and synephrine alkaloids in the treatment of overweight and obesity: an update. Obesity Reviews, 2006, 7(1), 79‒88, doi: 1111/j.1467-789X.2006.00195.x.
7. JAYAPRAKASHA, G. K., MANDADI, K. K., POULOSE, S. M., JADEGOUD, Y., NAGANA GOWDA, G. A., PATIL, B. S. Novel triterpenoid from Citrus aurantium possesses chemopreventive properties against human colon cancer cells. Bioorganic & Medicinal Chemistry, 2008, 16(11), 5939‒5951, doi: 10.1016/j.bmc.2007.04.044.
8. GIRENNAVAR, Basavaraj, JAYAPRAKASHA, G. K., JADEGOUD, Y., NAGANA GOWDA, G. A., PATIL, Bhimanagouda. S. Radical scavenging and cytochrome P450 3A4 inhibitory activity of bergaptol and geranylcoumarin from grapefruit. Bioorganic and Medicinal Chemistry, 2007, 15(11), 3684‒3691, doi: 1016/j.bmc.2007.03.047.
9. JAYAPRAKASHA, G. K., MANDADI, K. K., POULOSE, Shibu M., JADEGOUD, Y., NAGANA GOWDA, G. A. and PATIL, Bhimanagouda S. Inhibition of colon cancer cell growth and antioxidant activity of bioactive compounds from Poncirus trifoliate (L.) Raf. Bioorganic and Medicinal Chemistry, 2007, 15(14), 4923‒4932, doi:1016/j.bmc.2007.04.044.
10. HALLIWELL, Barry. Role of free radicals in the neurodegenerative diseases. Drugs & Aging, 2001, 18(9), 685‒716, doi: 2165/00002512-200118090-00004.
11. HALLIWELL, Barry, GUTTERIDGE, John M. C. Free radicals in biology and medicine. 2^nd Gloucestershire: Claredon Press. 1989.
12. HANASAKI, Yukiko, OGAWA, Shunjiro, FUKUI, Shozo. The correlation between active oxygens scavenging and antioxidative effects of flavonoids. Free Radical Biology and Medicine, 1994, 16(6), 845‒850, doi: 1016/0891-5849(94)90202-x.
13. GARCIA-CASTELLO, E., CHORQUES, S., MAYOR, L., ARGÜELLES, A., GRAS, M. L. D. Food innova, 25‒29 October, 2010, Research Institute of Food Engineering and Development, Polytechnic University of Valencia.
14. BICU, Ioan, MUSTATA, Fanica. Cellulose extraction from orange peel using sulfite digestion reagents. Bioresource Technology, 2011, 102(21), 10013–10019, doi: 1016/j.biortech.2011.08.041.
15. ACKER, Saskia A. B. E. van, BALEN, Georgette Plemper von, BERG, Dirk-Jan van den, BAST, Aalt, VIJGH, Wim J. F. van der, F., W. J. Influence of iron chelation on the antioxidant activity of flavonoids. Biochemical Pharmacology, 1998, 56(8), 935‒943, doi: 1016/s0006-2952(98)00102-6.
16. GB15979- Hygienic standard for disposable sanitary products. Chinese Standrards (GB), 2002.
17. ZAPATA, B., BALMASEDA, J., FREGOSO-ISRAEL, E., TORRES-GARCÍA, E. Thermo-kinetics study of orange peel in air. Journal of Thermal Analysis and Calorimetry, 2009, 98(1), 309–315, doi: 1007/s10973-009-0146-9.
18. BRIGGS, L. H., COLEBROOK, L. D. Infra-red spectra of flavanones and flavones. Carbonyl and hydroxyl stretching and CH out-of-plane bending absorption. Spectrochimica Acta, 1962, 18, 939, doi: 1016/0371-1951(62)80101-5.
19. SHAW, B. L., SIMPSON, T. H. Chelate systems. Part III. Infrared spectra of flavanones and flavones. Journal of American Chemical Society, 1955, resumed on page 655, doi: 1039/JR9550000655.
20. BICU, Ioan, MUSTATA, Fanica. Cellulose extraction from orange peel using sulfite digestion reagents. Bioresourse Technology, 2011, 102, 10013‒10019, doi: 1016/j.biortech.2011.08.041.
21. MAFRA, M. R, IGARASHI-MAFRA, L, ZUIM, D. R, VASQUES, É. C., FERREIRA, M. A. Adsorption of remazol brilliant blue on an orange peel adsorbent. Brazilian Journal of Chemical Engineering, 2013, 30(3), 657–665, doi: 1590/s0104-66322013000300022.
22. HE, Jianxin, TANG, Yuyuan, WANG, Shan-Yuan. differences in morphological characteristics of bamboo fibres and other natural cellulose fibres: Studies on X-ray diffraction, solid state 13C-CP/MAS NMR, and second derivative FTIR spectroscopy data. Iranian Polymer Journal, 2007, 12(12), 807‒818.
23. SEGAL, L., CREELY, J. J., MARTIN, A. E., CONRAD, C. M. An empirical method for estimating the degree of crystallinity of native cellulose using the X-ray diffractometer. Textile Research Journal, 1959, 29(10), 786–794, doi: 1177/004051755902901003.
24. REDDY, Narendra, YANG, Yiqi. Properties of natural cellulose fibers from hop stems. Carbohydrate Polymers, 2009, 77(4), 898–902, doi: 1016/j.carbpol.2009.03.013.
25. LIU, Zhao-Tie, YANG, Yani, ZHANG, Lili, LIU, Zhong-Wen, XIONG, Heping. Study on the cationic modification and dyeing of ramie fiber. Cellulose 2007, 14(4), 337–45, doi: 1007/s10570-007-9117-0.
26. KECHAOU, B, SALVIA, M, BEAUGIRAUD, B, JUVE, D, FAKHFAKH, Z., TREHEUX, D. Mechanical and dielectric characterization of hemp fibre reinforced polypropylene (HFRPP) by dry impregnation process. eXPRESS Polym Letters, 2010, 4(3),171–182, doi: 3144/expresspolymlett.2010.22.
27. SEKI, Yoldas, SARIKANAT, Mehmet, SEVER, Kutlay, DURMUŞKAHYA, Cenk. Extraction and properties of Ferula communis (chakshir) fibers as novel reinforcement for composites materials, Composites Part B: Engineering, 2013, 44(1), 517–523, doi: 1016/j.compositesb.2012.03.013.
28. CHEN, Run. Tailor-made antioxidative nanocrystals: production and in vitro efficacy : PhD thesis. Berlin: Freie Universität Berlin, Department of Biology, Chemistry and Pharmacy,
29. OROZCO, Raymundo Sánchez, HERNÁNDEZ, Patricia Balderas, RAMÍREZ, Nelly Flores, MORALES, Gabriela Roa, LUNA, Jaime Saucedo, Agustín MONTOYA, Jaime Castro. Gamma irradiation induced degradation of orange peels. Energies, 2012, 5(8), 3051‒3063, doi: 3390/en5083051.
30. SEVERIANO, Lucio C, LAHR, Francisco A. R., BARDI, Marcelo A. G.; SANTOS, Alex C, MACHADO, Luci D. B. Influence of gamma radiation on properties of common Brazilian wood species used in artwork. Progress in Nuclear Energy, 2010, 52(8), 730–734, doi: 1016/j.pnucene.2010.04.008.
31. AGUIAR, L., MÁRQUEZ-MONTESINOS, F., GONZALO, A., SÁNCHEZ, J. L, ARAUZO, J. L. Influence of temperature and particle size on the fixed bed pyrolysis of orange peel residues. Journal of Analytical and Applied Pyrolysis, 2008, 83(1), 124‒130, doi: 1016/j.jaap.2008.06.009.

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Univerza v Ljubljani, Pedagoška fakulteta, Kardeljeva pl. 16, SI-1000 Ljubljana

 

Kratki znanstveni prispevek

Prispelo 04-2015 • Sprejeto 10-2015

 

Korespondenčna avtorica:

Dr. Francka Lovšin Kozina

Telefon: 00386 15892212

E-pošta: francka.lovsin@pef.uni-lj.si

 

Izvleček

Namen predstavljene raziskave je bil ugotoviti, kako otroci, ki obiskujejo devetletno osnovno šolo in ki so že zaključili spoznavanje tekstilnih vsebin, zaznavajo vsebine tekstilstva pri predmetu gospodinjstvo. V raziskavi je sodelovalo 106 učencev. V povprečju so bili stari 10,5 let. Rezultati so pokazali, da se je večina učencev strinjala, da obvladovanje ročnih spretnosti lahko omogoča denarni prihranek in tudi možnost izražanja lastne kreativnosti. Namen raziskave je bil tudi ugotoviti povezavo med izbranimi tekstilnimi vsebinami in trajnostnim vedenjem. Pokazalo se je, da prenos znanja v tem kontekstu ni zadovoljiv. Zato bi bil v prihodnosti potreben razmislek o izpopolnitvi/osvežitvi tekstilnih vsebin učnega načrta za gospodinjstvo, ravno tako bi bil potreben razmislek o ustreznosti števila ur, ki so namenjene temu področju.

Ključne besede: izobraževanje, ročne spretnosti, tekstil, trajnost

 

Viri

1. HEIMDAL, Elisabeth Jacobsen. Interactive inspirational tool for responsive textiles : master’s thesis. Lyngby: Technical University of Denmark, Department of Management Engineering, 2009.
2. TODOROVIĆ, Tijana, TOPORIŠIČ, Tomaž, PAVKO ČUDEN, Alenka. Clothes and costumes as form of nonverbal communication. Tekstilec, 2014, 57(4), 321−333, doi: 14502/Tekstilec2014.57.321–333.
3. EUN-YOUNG, Rhee. Clothing and textiles education in South Korea: Perspectives for the knowledge-based information society. Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, 2008, 26(2), 191−200, doi: 1177/0887302X08315178.
4. MARTIN, A. Craig, BUSH, J. Alan. Do role model influence teenagers’ purchase intention and behaviour. Journal of Consumers Marketing, 2000, 17(5), 441−453, doi: 1108/07363760010341081.
5. POULTER, Sean. The primark effect: throwaway fashion that cannot be recycled now make up 30 percent of the waste in council tips. Daily Mail, 2008, 25 [online] [accessed 15. 3. 2015]. Available on World Wide Web: <http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-1089094/The-Primark-effect-Throwaway-fashion-recycled-makes-30-cent-waste-council-tips.html>.
6. Textile recycling information sheet. Waste online [online] [accessed 15. 3. 2015]. Available on World Wide Web: <http://www.wasteonline.org.uk/>.
7. MORGAN, R. Louise, BIRTWISTLE, Grete. An investigation of young fashion consumers’ disposal habits. International Journal of Consumer Studies, 2009, 33(2), 190−198, doi: 1111/j.1470-6431.2009.00756.x.
8. BUTLER, Sara M., FRANCIS, Sally. The effect of environmental attitudes on apparel purchasing behaviour. Cloathing and Textile Reserach Journal, 1997, 15(2), 76−85, doi: 1177/0887302X9701500202.
9. VERMEIR, Iris, VERBEKE, Wim. Sustainable food consumption among young adults in Belgium: Theory of planned behaviour and the role of confidence and values. Ecological Economics, 2008, 64(3), 542−553, doi: 1016/j.ecolecon.2007.03.007.
10. ELLEN SHOLDER, Ellen, WIENER, Joshua Lyle, COBB-WALGREN, Cathy. The role of perceived consumer effectiveness in motivating environmentally conscious behaviors. Journal of Public Policy & Marketing, 1991, 10(2), 102−117.
11. KANG, Jiyun, CHUANLAN, Liu, SANG-HOON, Kim. Environmentally sustainable textile and apparel consumption: the role of consumer knowledge, percived consumer effectivness and percived personal relevance. International Journal of Consumer studies, 2013, 37, 442−452, doi: 1111/ijcs.12013.
12. LAITALA, Kirsi. Consumers’ clothing disposal behaviour ‒ a synthesis of research results. International Journal of Consumer Studies, 2014, 38(5), 444−457, doi: 1111/ijcs.12088.
13. FORTE TAVČER, Petra. Zbiranje potrošniških tekstilnih odpadkov v zbirnih centrih po Sloveniji. Tekstilec, 2013, 57(1), 43−61.
14. UČNI NAČRT. Program osnovna šola. Gospodinjstvo. Ljubljana : Ministrstvo za šolstvo in šport : Zavod RS za šolstvo, 2011.
15. PEČJAK, Vid. Misliti, delati, živeti ustvarjalno. Ljubljana : DZS, 1987, 301.
16. WOOLFOLK, Anita. Pedagoška psihologija. Ljubljana: Educy, 2002, 610.
17. KOLB, A. David. Experiential learning: Experience as the source of learning and development. New Jersey: Prentice-Hall, 1984.
18. PERUZZA, Nadia, KINSELLA, Elisabeth Anne. Creative arts occupations in therapeutic practice: a review of the literature. British Journal of Occupational Therapy, 2010, 73(6), 261−268, doi: 4276/030802210X12759925468943.
19. RILLEY, Jill, CORKHILL, Betsan, MORRIS, Clare. The benefits of knitting for personal and social wellbeing in adulthood: Finding from an international survey. British Journal of Occupational Therapy, 2013, 76(2), 50−57.
20. PHILIPPE, Aurier, NGOBO, Paul-Valentin. Assesment of consumer knowledge and its consequences: a multi-component approach. Advances in Consumer Research, 1999, 26, 569−575.
21. BATOR, J. Renee, CIALDINI, B. Robert. The application of persuasion theroy to the development of effective proenvironmental public service announcements. Journal of Social Issues, 2000, 56(3), 527−541, doi: 1111/0022-4537.00182.
22. SCHOR, B. Juliet. Born to buy: the commercilized child and the new consumer colture. New York : Scribner, 2004, 712−728.

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^*Univerza v Ljubljani, Naravoslovnotehniška fakulteta, Oddelek za tekstilstvo, grafiko in oblikovanje, Snežniška ulica 5, SI-1000 Ljubljana

^**Tehniški muzej Slovenije, Tržaška cesta 2, SI-1000 Ljubljana

^***Univerza v Ljubljani, Fakulteta za računalništvo in informatiko, Laboratorij za računalniško grafiko in multimedije, Večna pot 113, SI-1000 Ljubljana

 

Izvirni znanstveni članek

Prispelo 08-2015 • Sprejeto 10-2015

 

Korespondenčna avtorica:

izr. prof. dr. Urška Stankovič Elesini

Telefon: +386 1 200 32 29

E-pošta: urska.stankovic@ntf.uni-lj.si

 

Izvleček

Konkurirati na trgu zahteva nenehen razvoj na vseh področjih, tudi na področju informatizacije poslovnih procesov, katerega razvoj v zadnjih šestdesetih letih strmo narašča. V članku je predstavljena raziskava, kako je temu razvoju sledila slovenska tekstilna, oblačilna in usnjarskopredelovalna (TOUP) industrija v preteklosti in zadnje leto. Na podlagi zbranih literaturnih podatkov je bilo postavljenih osem hipotez, ki so bile proučene s pomočjo intervjujev in vprašalnika. Na raziskavo se je odzvalo 111 podjetij (25,5 odstotka). Rezultati so bili analizirani ločeno za velika, srednja, mala in mikro podjetja, saj je bilo preliminarno ugotovljeno, da so njihovi pogledi (in dejansko stanje) na poslovnoinformacijske sisteme precej različni, zato posploševanje rezultatov ne bi dalo realne obravnave postavljenih hipotez. Med pridobljenimi podatki so bile s Pearsonovim χ2-preskusom poiskane ustrezne korelacije. S poslovno informacijskimi sistemi so v celoti opremljena le velika in srednja podjetja, 80,0 odstotkov majhnih in le 26,3 odstotke mikro podjetij. Več kot polovica podjetij (64,4 odstotke) uporablja poslovno informacijske rešitve domačih ponudnikov. Lastne rešitve uporablja le slabih 20 odstotkov velikih podjetij in v manjšem deležu v mikro podjetjih. Srednja podjetja uporabljajo le kupljene/licenčne sisteme. Slaba polovica velikih in srednjih podjetij upravlja istočasno z dvema ali več informacijskimi sistemi, katere medsebojno povezujejo. Poslovno informacijski sistemi podpirajo izključno le finančne in prodajne funkcije v 60,4 odstotnem deležu podjetij, v ostalih podjetjih pa tudi proizvodnjo, kontroling, CRM, investicije idr. Poslovno informacijski sistemi v oblaku so v slovenskih TOUP podjetjih prisotni v manj kot 15 odstotkih. Poslovno informacijski sistemi so v velikih in srednjih podjetjih v povprečju starejši od osem let. V zadnjem letu (2014) je poslovno informacijske sisteme nadgradilo približno 40 odstotkov TOUP podjetij. Vložki v poslovno informacijske sisteme podjetij so majhni, z izjemo nekaterih velikih podjetij, kjer so vložena sredstva zaradi kompleksnosti sistemov razumljivo višja.

Ključne besede: poslovnoinformacijski sistemi, zgodovinski pregled, proizvodnja tekstilij, proizvodnja oblačil, proizvodnja usnja in usnjenih izdelkov, TOUP

 

Viri

1. Nekaj misli o računalnikih. Tekstilni obveščevalec, 1969, 12(2), 6−9.
2. SAVNIK, Viktor. Uporaba computorjev v konfekcijskih obratih. Tekstilni obveščevalec, 1969, 12(7), 1−4.
3. JEROVEC, Leon. Elektronska obdelava podatkov v sodobnem podjetju. Tekstilni obveščevalec, 1970, 13(5), 3−6.
4. SAVNIK, Viktor. Elektronska obdelava podatkov v pletilskih in konfekcijskih obratih, Tekstilni obveščevalec, 1970, 13(6), 10−16.
5. STUPICA, Igor, ŽIBERNA, Vanja. Avtomatska obdelava podatkov kot sredstvo avtomatizacije in racionalizacije proizvodnje v tekstilni industriji. Tekstilec, 1974, 17(12), 17−21.
6. HLEB, Marta. Stanje računalniške informatike v tekstilni industriji. Tekstilec, 1983, 26(12), 11−14.
7. STUPICA, Igor, ŽIBERNA, Vanja. Avtomatizacija in racionalizacija v tekstilni industriji s pomočjo elektronskega računalnika. Tekstilec, 1975, 18(9), 3−8.
8. JEROVEC, Leon. Pomen elektronskih računalnikov za vodenje podjetja (nadaljevanje in konec). Tekstilec, 1973, 16(6), 17−26.
9. JEROVEC, Leon. Pomen elektronskih računalnikov za vodenje podjetja. Tekstilec, 1973, 16(2), 15−21.
10. JEROVEC, Leon. Pomen elektronskih računalnikov za vodenje podjetja (nadaljevanje). Tekstilec, 1973, 16(3−4), 23−29.
11. JEROVEC, Leon. Marketing in elektronska obdelava podatkov. Tekstilec, 1974, 17(10−11), 13−18.
12. GRADIŠAR, Miro, RESINOVIČ, Gortan. Informatika v organizaciji. Kranj : Moderna organizacija, 2000, 1−472.
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27. ŽVIKART, Monika. Slovenjegraški Prevent je tretji največji slovenski izvoznik [dostopno na daljavo], eINFOrmator [citirano 12. 11. 2014]. Dostopno na svetovnem spletu: <http://www.finance.si/4866/Slovenjegra%C5%A1ki-Prevent-je-tretji-najve%C4%8Dji-slovenski-izvoznik>.
28. ČEPIN VRČKOVNIK, Barbara, URBANC, Matej. Konsolidacija zbirk podatkov o strankah in povezava z rešitvijo ERP za oblikovanje celovitega pogleda na stranko [dostopno na daljavo], Microsoft Dynamics Slovenija [citirano 12. 11. 2014]. Dostopno na svetovnem spletu: <http://blogs.technet.com/b/microsoft_dynamics_slovenija/>.
29. MIHELIČ, Niko, VALENTINČIČ, Zoran. Računalniško podprta proizvodnja v podjetju Svilanit Kamnik. Tekstilec, 2001, 44(9−10), 280−288.
30. ZUPAN, Gregor. Najem storitev računalništva v oblaku v podjetjih, Slovenija, 2014 – končni podatki [dostopno na daljavo], Statistični urad RS [citirano 22. 07. 2015]. Dostopno na svetovnem spletu: <http://www.stat.si/StatWeb/glavnanavigacija/podatki/prikazistaronovico?IdNovice=6561>.
31. GROBELŠEK, Matic. Kako izbrati pravi ERP? Gospodarski vestnik, 2002, 41, 80−83.
32. Zakon o gospodarskih družbah (ZGD-1). Uradni list RS, 2006, 42, 4405−4498.
33. AHLIN, Tomaž, ZUPANČIČ, Jože. Uvajanje celovitih programskih paketov. Organizacija, 2001, 34(5), 283−289.
34. ZUPAN, Gregor. Vpliv uporabe informacijsko-komunikacijske tehnologije na poslovanje podjetij. Uporabniška informatika., 2014, 22(2), 116−121.
35. HOLEY, Seveda se zmotim, a ne prav pogosto. Finance. Oglasna priloga, 23 januar 2014, 16, 20−21.
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37. SHESKIN, David. J. Handbook of Parametric and Nonparametric Statistical Procedures. Third Edition. CRC Press, 2004, 881−898.
38. Bruto investicije v nova in rabljena osnovna sredstva po tehnični strukturi in dejavnosti investitorja, originalni podatki v SIT in informativni preračuni v evre, Slovenija, 1996-2003 [dostopno na daljavo], Statistični urad RS [citirano 29. 07. 2015]. Dostopno na svetovnem spletu: <http://pxweb.stat.si/pxweb/Dialog/varval.asp?ma=1409001S_EUR&ti=&path=../Database/EUR/14/04_14090_investicije/&lang=2>.
39. Bruto investicije v nova in rabljena osnovna sredstva po tehnični strukturi in dejavnosti investitorja, originalni podatki v SIT in informativni preračuni v evre, Slovenija, letno [dostopno na daljavo], Statistični urad RS [citirano 29. 07. 2015]. Dostopno na svetovnem spletu: <http://pxweb.stat.si/pxweb/Dialog/varval.asp?ma=1409006S_EUR&ti=&path=../Database/EUR/14/04_14090_investicije/&lang=2>.
40. Investicije v osnovna sredstva po tehnični strukturi in dejavnosti investitorja – SKD 2008 (v 1000 EUR), Slovenija, letno [dostopno na daljavo], Statistični urad RS [citirano 29. 07. 2015]. Dostopno na svetovnem spletu: <http://pxweb.stat.si/pxweb/Dialog/varval.asp?ma=1409006S&ti=&path=../Database/Ekonomsko/14_poslovni_subjekti/04_14090_investicije/&lang=2http://pxweb.stat.si/pxweb/Dialog/varval.asp?ma=1409006S&ti=&path=../Database/Ekonomsko/14_poslovni_subjekti/04_14090_investicije/&lang=2>.

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Univerza v Ljubljani, Naravoslovnotehniška fakulteta, Oddelek za tekstilstvo, grafiko in oblikovanje, Snežniška ulica 5, SI-1000 Ljubljana

 

Izvirni znanstveni članek

Prispelo 09-2015 • Sprejeto 11-2015

 

Korespondenčna avtorica:

Doc. dr. Mateja Kert

Telefon: +386 1 200 32 34

E-pošta: mateja.kert@ntf.uni-lj.si

 

Izvleček

V raziskavi je bil proučevan način delovanja različnih tenzidov pri barvanju volne z reaktivnim barvilom C.I. Reactive Red 120 pri pH 3 in temperaturah od 50 do 90 °C. Uporabljeni so bili naslednji tenzidi: anionski tenzid natrijev dodecilsulfat (SDS); kationski tenzid n-dodeciltrimetilamonijev bromid (DTAB); neionski tenzidi Brij C10, Brij S10, Brij L23, Brij 58, Brij S20 in Brij S100; in tržno dostopen amfoterni proizvod Albegal B. V primerjavi z barvanjem brez tenzidov, sta SDS in Brij S100 nekoliko zmanjšala izčrpanje barvila pri 360 minutah barvanja, medtem ko so ostali proučevani tenzidi bistveno povečali izčrpanje barvila. Povečano navzemanje barvila smo pripisali adsorpciji tenzidov na volnena vlakna, zaradi povečanja kationskega karakterja in hidrofilnosti površine vlakna. Tenzidi so pospešili fiksiranje barvila pri temperaturah barvanja do 80 °C in zmanjšali fiksiranje pri 90 °C. Tenzidi so povečali vrednosti K/S in spremenili CIELAB vrednosti obarvanj. Albegal B je pokazal najmočnejši učinek.

Ključne besede: volna, reaktivno barvilo, tenzid, izčrpanje barvila, fiksiranje barvila

 

Viri

1. Wool Dyeing. Edited by David M. Lewis. Bradford : Society of Dyers and Colourists, 1992, 372.
2. Colorants and auxiliaries: Organic chemistry and application properties, Volume 2- Auxiliaries. Edited by John Shore. Bradford : Society of Dyers and Colourists, 1990, 372.
3. ASPLAND, J. Richard. Textile Dyeing and Coloration. New York : American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists, 1997, 410.
4. BURKINSHAW, Stephen M. Application of Dyes. V The Chemistry and Application of Dyes. Edited by D. R. Waring and G. Hallas. New York : Plenum press, 1990, 244–277.
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7. LEWIS, D. M. The Dyeing of wool with reactive dyes. Journal of the Society of Dyers and Colourists, 1982, 98(5−6), 165–175, doi: 10.1111/j.1478-4408.1982.tb03631.x.
8. HANNEMANN, Klaus. Mechanistic investigations on the action of levelling agents in reactive wool dyeing. Journal of the Society of Dyers and Colourists, 1992, 108(4), 200–202, doi: 10.1111/j.1478-4408.1992.tb01440.x.
9. JOCIĆ, D., JULIA, M. R., ERRA, P. Application of chitosan/nonionic surfactant mixture to wool assessed by dyeing with a reactive dye. Journal of the Society of Dyers and Colourists, 1997, 113(1), 25–31, doi: 10.1111/j.1478-4408.1997.tb01842.x.
10. YEN, Ming-Shien. Application of chitosan/nonionic surfactant mixture in reactive dyes for dyeing wool fabrics. Journal of Applied Polymer Science, 2001, 80(14), 2859–2864, doi: 10.1002/app.1403.
11. CHO, Ho Jung, LEWIS, David, M. Reactive dyeing systems for wool fibres based on hetero-bifunctional reactive dyes. Part 1: Application of commercial reactive dyes. Coloration Technology, 2002, 118(4), 198–204, doi: 10.1111/j.1478-4408.2002.tb00100.x.
12. CHO, Ho Jung, LEWIS, David, M. Reactive dyeing systems for wool fibres based on hetero-bifunctional reactive dyes. Part 2: Investigation of dyeing properties during the dyeing cycle. Coloration Technology, 2002, 118(5), 220–225, doi: 10.1111/j.1478-4408.2002.tb00103.x.
13. RIVA, A., CEGARRA, J. The influence of amphoteric products on the affinity of wool for acid dyes. Journal of the Society of Dyers and Colourists, 1987, 103(1), 32–37, doi: 10.1111/j.1478-4408.1987.tb01083.x.
14. RIVA, A., CEGARRA, J., PRIETO, R. Sorption of nonionic auxiliary products by wool and its influence on dyeing with acid dyes. Journal of the Society of Dyers and Colourists, 1996, 112(4), 114–116, doi: 10.1111/j.1478-4408.1996.tb01797.x.
15. BROOKS, John H. The mode of action of levelling agents in the dyeing of wool. Journal of the Society of Dyers and Colourists, 1974, 90(5), 158–163, doi: 10.1111/j.1478-4408.1974.tb03195.x.
16. NAEBE, Maryam, COOKSON, Peter G., RIPPON, John A., WANG, Xungai G. Effects of leveling agent on the uptake of reactive dyes by untreated and plasma-treated wool. Textile Research Journal, 2010, 80(7), 612–622, doi: 10.1177/0040517509340603.
17. McILVAINE, C. A buffer solution for colorimetric comparison. Journal of Biological Chemistry, 1921, 49(1), 183–186.
18. ROSEN, Milton J. Surfactants and interfacial phenomena. 1. ed. New York : John Wiley & Sons, 1989, 122–125.
19. HAIT, S. M., MOULIK, S. P. Determination of critical micelle concentration (CMC) of nonionic surfactants by donor-acceptor interaction with iodine and correlation of CMC with hydrophile-lipophile balance and other parameters of the surfactants. Journal of Surfactants and Detergents, 2001, 4(3), 303–309, doi: 10.1007/s11743-001-0184-2.
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21. Sigma Aldrich technical data [dostopno na daljavo]. Dostopno na svetovnem spletu: http://www.sigmaaldrich.com.
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23. CHO, H. J., LEWIS, David M., JIA, B. H. Improved reactive dyeing of wool with novel trifunctional reactive dyes. Coloration Technology, 2007, 123(2), 86–95, doi: 10.1111/j.1478-4408.2007.00067.x.
24. LEWIS, David M. Dyestuff-fibre interactions. Review of Progress in Coloration and Related Topics, 1998, 28(1), 12–17, doi: 10.1111/j.1478-4408.1998.tb00114.x.
25. CESTARI, Antonio R., VIEIRA, Eunice F. S., VIEIRA, Gláucia S., ALMEIDA, Luis E. The removal of anionic dyes from aqueous solutions in the presence of anionic surfactant using aminopropylsilica−A kinetic study. Journal of Hazardous Materials, 2006, 138(1), 133–141, doi: 10.1016/j.jhazmat.2006.05.046.
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27. BRAC, N., LAMB, R., PHAM, D., TURNER, P. Nonionic surfactants and the wool fibre surface. Colloids and Surfaces A: Physicochemical and Engineering Aspects, 1999, 146(1−3), 405–415, doi: 10.1016/S0927-7757(98)00863-2.
28. SOCRATES, George. Infrared and Raman Characteristic Group Frequencies: Tables and Charts. 3. ed. Chichester : John Wiley & Sons, 2004, 347.
29. DATYNER, Arved. Interactions between auxiliaries and dyes in the dyebath. Review of Progress in Coloration and Related Topics, 1993, 23(1), 40–50, doi: 10.1111/j.1478-4408.1993.tb00095.x.
30. MUSNICKAS, J., SKULKINA, O., TREIGIENE, R., RAGELIENE, L. Effect of the interaction between acid dye and nonionic surfactants on the adsorption of dye in wool fibre. Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe, 2008, 16(5), 117–121.

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*Kemijski inštitut Ljubljana, Hajdrihova 19, SI-1000 Ljubljana

**St. Petersburg State University of Technology and Design, Department of Chemical Engineering and Textile Design, Bolshaya Morskaya Str. 18, RU-191186, St. Petersburg, Rusija

 

Izvirni znanstveni članek

Prispelo 04-2015 • Sprejeto 07-2015

 

Korespondenčna avtorica:

Dr. Natalja Fjodorova

Telefon: +386 1 4760441

E-pošta: natalja.fjodorova@ki.si

Izvleček

Inovativni tekstilni materiali za specialna oblačila so namenjeni za zaščito telesa pred poškodbami. Tkanine, narejene iz visokozmogljivih aramidnih vlaken, se dandanes na široko uporabljajo za izdelavo atletskih športnih oblačil za ekstremne športe, ker imajo visoko natezno trdnost in elastični modul. Cilj naše študije je bil prikazati nov pristop pri iskanju optimalnih nastavitev za impregnacijo posameznih serij tekstilnih materialov na osnovi paraaramidnih vlaken. V raziskavah je predstavljena metoda 2D (2-dimenzionalnega) nevronskega mapiranja s tako imenovanim pristopom »feed foward bottleneck neural network (FFBN NN)«, ki omogoča vizualno ugotovitev optimalnih rešitev (optimalnih nastavitev procesa, pri katerih dobimo najboljšo kakovost). Optimalne nastavitve procesa izberemo s pomočjo odločitev, pri katerih lahko izberemo najboljšo kakovost pri najnižjih stroških. Takšen pristop je uporaben za ugotovitev optimalnih nastavitev pri različnih kemijskih obdelavah. V primerih, ko pri standardnem regresijskem modelu (zaradi nelinearnih zvez) pride do nezadostnega ali pomanjkljivega ujemanja, ga lahko uspešno nadomestimo z modelom v obliki nevronske mreže FFBN. Metodo mapiranja FFBN NN lahko uporabljamo sočasno s standardnimi statističnimi metodami. Tako omogočimo dvojno kontrolo sistema.

Ključne besede: aramidna vlakna, optimizacija, impregnacija, feed-forward bottleneck neural network, načrtovanje poskusa

 

Viri

1. Alchemie Group home page [online], [accessed 22. 4. 2015]. Available on Word Wide Web: <http://alchemie-group.com/core-materials-technology/autx-aramid-fibre/compliance/>.
2. KIM, Hyun Ah and KIM, Seung Jin. Physical properties of para-aramid/nylon hybrid air textured yarns for protective clothing. Fibers and Polymers, 2014, 15(11), 2428–2436, doi: 10.1007/s12221-014-2428-5.
3. ZHENG, Huanda and ZHENG, Laijiu. Dyeing of meta-aramid fibers with disperse dyes in supercritical carbon dioxide. Fibers and Polymers, 2014, 15(8), 1627–1634, doi: 10.1007/s12221-014-1627-4.
4. BILISIK, Kadir. Experimental determination of yarn pull-out properties of para-aramid (Kevlar®) woven fabric. Journal of Industrial Textiles January, 2012 41(3), 201–221, doi: 10.1177/1528083711413411.
5. UPPAL, Rohit, RAMASWAMY, Gita N. and LOUGHIN, Thomas. A novel method to assess degree of crystallinity of aramid filament yarns. Journal of Industrial Textiles, 2013, 43(1), 3–19, doi: 10.1177/1528083712444648.
6. LIN, Lantian, SHEN, Yiping and ZHANG, Qiuping. Analysis of environmental impact on mechanical properties of aramid filaments. Journal of Industrial Textiles, 2013, 42(4), 489–500, doi: 10.1177/1528083712446383.
7. PARK, Jong Lyoul, YOON, Byung Il, PAIK, Jong Gyu and KANG, Tae Jin. Ballistic performance of p-aramid fabrics impregnated with shear thickening fluid. Part I – Effect of laminating sequence. Textile Research Journal, 2011, 82(6), 527–541, doi: 10.1177/0040517511420753.
8. ZIELINSKA, Dorota, DELCZYK-OLEJNICZAK, Bogumila, WIERZBICKI, Lukasz, WILBIK-HAŁGAS, Bożena, STRUSZCZYK, Marcin Henryk and LEONOWICZ, Marcin. Investigation of the effect of para-aramid fabric impregnation with shear thickening fluid on quasi-static stab resistance. Textile Research Journal, 2014, 84 (15), 1569–1577, doi:10.1177/0040517514525881.
9. LI, Ting-Ting, WANG, Rui, LOU, Ching Wen and LIN, Jia-Horng. Evaluation of high-modulus, puncture-resistance composite nonwoven fabrics by response surface methodology. Journal of Industrial Textiles, 2013, 43(2), 247–263, doi: 10.1177/1528083712452900.
10. ZHIYING, Cui, YANMIN, Wan and WEIYUAN, Zhang. Thermal protective performance and moisture transmission of firefighter protective clothing based on orthogonal design. Journal of Industrial Textiles, 2010, 39(4), 347–356, doi: 10.1177/1528083709347126.
11. LEE, Kyulin and CHO, Gilsoo. The optimum coating condition by response surface methodology for maximizing vapor-permeable water resistance and minimizing frictional sound of combat uniform fabric. Textile Research Journal, 2014, 84(7), 684–693, doi: 10.1177/0040517513509870.
12. SARAVANA, kumar T. and SAMPATH, V. R. Prediction of dimensional properties of weft knitted cardigan fabric by artificial neural network system. Journal of Industrial Textiles, 2013, 42(4), 446–458, doi: 10.1177/1528083712444296.
13. BEHERA, B. K. and GOYAL, Y. Artificial neural network system for the design of airbag fabrics. Journal of Industrial Textiles, 2009, 39(1), 45–55, doi: 10.1177/1528083708093335.
14. KRAMER, Mark A. Nonlinear principal component analysis using autoassociative neural networks. AIChE Journal, 1991, 37(2), 233–243, doi: 10.1002/aic.690370209.
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20. FJODOROVA, Natalja, NOVIČ, Marjana and DIANKOVA, Tamara. Optimization of pigment dyeing process of high performance fibers using feed-forward bottleneck neural networks mapping technique. Analytica Chimica Acta, 2011, 705(1–2), 148–154, doi: 10.1016/j.aca.2011.04.041.
21. High-performance fibres. Edited by J. W. S. Hearle. Cambridge: Woodhead Publishing, 2001, pp. 329, doi: 10.1533/9781855737549.

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*Narodni muzej Slovenije, Prešernova cesta 20, SI-100 Ljubljana

**Univerza v Ljubljani, Naravoslovnotehniška fakulteta, Oddelek za tekstilstvo, grafiko in oblikovanje, Snežniška ulica 5, SI-1000 Ljubljana

Izvirni znanstveni članek

Prispelo 04-2015 • Sprejeto 08-2015

 

Korespondenčna avtorica:

Izr. prof. dr. Mateja Bizjak

Telefon: +386 1 200 32 19

E-pošta: mateja.bizjak@ntf.uni-lj.si

 

Izvleček

Koptske tkanine, ki jih hrani Narodni muzej Slovenije v Ljubljani, so bile narejene v Egiptu med 3. in 10. stoletjem našega štetja. Gre za zgodovinski oziroma arheološki tekstil, ki se je v grobovih ohranil dolga stoletja, predvsem zaradi suhega podnebja in ugodnih razmer. Artefakti so bili nekoč sestavni del večjih tekstilij: tunik, pregrinjal, pokrival, zastorov, šalov in blazin. V teoretičnem delu so podane osnovne značilnosti konstrukcije koptskih tkanin in opisana so naravna barvila, s katerimi so barvali volno. Zaradi občutljivosti tekstilij in njihove pomembnosti so bile uporabljene le nedestruktivne metode raziskovanja. V eksperimentalnem delu so bile s pomočjo stereomikroskopa NOVEX z digitalno kamero CMEX-5000 opazovane barve ter določene vezave, gostote niti in druge konstrukcijske značilnosti, povezane s postopkom tkanja. Na podlagi pridobljenih podatkov je bila izdelana računalniška simulacija in stkana rekonstrukcija enega od vzorcev.

Ključne besede: koptske tkanine, vezava, gostota niti, naravna barvila, simulacija

 

Viri

1. STOJANOVIĆ, Dobrila. Koptske tkanine. Beograd: Muzej primenjene umetnosti, 1980, 86 str.
2. ZELINKA, Darinka. Koptske tkanine v Narodnem muzeju v Ljubljani. Situla, 1963, zv. 6, 76.
3. NICHOLSON, Paul T., SHAW, Ian. Ancient Egyptian materials and technology. Cambridge: University Press, 2000, 268–279.
4. STAUFFER, Annemarie. Koptische Textilien. Bern: Bernisches Historisches Museum, 1996.
5. SCHWEPPE, Helmut. Handbuch der Naturfarbstoffe. Landberg/Lech: Ecomed, 1992, str. 5, 17–19, 32, 53, 54, 60–61, 172, 230, 315, 483, 490.
6. STAUFFER, Annemarie. Spätantike, frühchristliche und islamische Textilien aus Ägypten. Bern: Bernische Historisches Museum, 1996, str. 10.
7. RENNER, Dorothee. Spätantike figürliche Purpurwirkereien. Documenta Textilia. München: Deutscher Kunstverlag, 1981, str. 82–94.
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9. PFISTER, R., BELLINGER, Louisa. The Excavation at Dura Europos. Final report IV. Part II. The Textiles. New Haven: Yale University Press, 1945.
10. HOFENK de GRAF, Judith. Zur Geschichte der Textilfärberei. V: Documenta textilia. München: Deutscher Kunstverlag, 1981, str. 23–33.
11. HOFMANN-DE KEISER, Regina. Farbstoffe in koptischen Textilien. V: Verletzliche Beute. Spätantike und frühislamische Textilien aus Ägypten. Wien: Hatje Cantz Verlag, 2006, str. 23–36.
12. RUTSCHOWSCAYA, Marie-Hélène. Coptic fabrics. Pariz: Adam Biro, 1990, 26–29.
13. DE MOOR, Antoine, VERHECKEN-LAMMENS, Chris, VERHECKEN, André, MAERTENS, Hugo. 3500 years of textile art: the collection in HeadquARTers. Tielt: Lannoo, 2008, str. 65–85, 86–95.
14. HOFENK de GRAFF, Judith H. The colourful past. Origins, chemistry and identification of natural dyestuffs. Riggisberg: Abegg-Stiftung, London: Archetype Publications, 2004, 396.
15. The Leyden and Stockholm Papyri. Greco-Egyptian chemical documents from the early 4th century AD: Oesper Collections in the History of Chemistry. Uredil William B. Jensen. Cincinnati: University of Cincinnati, 2008, str. 84.
16. KIRBY, Jo, SAUNDERS, D., SPRING, M., HIGGITT, C. Rdeča in modra: nedavne raziskave pigmentov, barvil in spremembe barvnih plasti v londonski Narodni Galeriji. Znanost za umetnost: konservatorstvo in restavratorstvo danes: zbornik prispevkov mednarodnega simpozija. El. knjiga. Ljubljana: Zavod za varstvo kulturne dediščine Slovenije, Restavratorski center, 2013, str. 73–97.
17. TORELLI, Niko. Barvilni lesovi. Les, 2001, 53(9), 295–301.
18. Sveto pismo stare in nove zaveze. Ljubljana: Britanska biblična družba, 1974.
19. BRUNS, Margarete. Von rotem Ocker. Kermesläsen und Purpurschnecken. V: Ein Buch von alten Farben. München: Moss & Partner, 1989, str. 7–13.
20. NAUERTH, Claudia, AHRENS, Dieter, KIRCHER, Ursula, LEWIS, Suzanne. Koptische Textilkunst im spätantiken Ägypten. Die Sammlung Rautenstrauch im Städtischen Museum Simeonstift Trier. Trier: Spee-Verlag, 1978, str. 20.
21. BOŽIČ, Mojca, KOKOL, Vanja. Redukcijska barvila: konvencionalni postopek barvanja in ekološke alternative. Tekstilec, 2006, 49(1–3), 8–15.
22. STIJNMAN, A. Iron gall inks in history: ingredients and production. V: Iron gall inks on manufacture, characterisation, degradation and stabilisation. Edited by Jana Kolar in Matija Strlič. Ljubljana: Narodna univerzitetna knjižnica, 2006, str. 25–68.
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Univerza v Ljubljani, Naravoslovnotehniška fakulteta, Oddelek za tekstilstvo, grafiko in oblikovanje, Snežniška ulica 5, SI-1000 Ljubljana

Izvirni znanstveni članek

Prispelo 06-2015 • Sprejeto 07-2015

 

Korespondenčna avtorica:

Doc. dr. Marija Gorjanc

Telefon: +386 1 2003256

E-pošta: marija.gorjanc@ntf.uni-lj.si

 

Izvleček

Pri barvanju bombažne tkanine z naravnim barvilom je bil kot čimža uporabljen srebrov nitrat (AgNO₃). Kot naravno barvilo je bil uporabljen zeleni čaj, saj ima visoko vsebnost katehina in čreslovine. Barvilo zelenega čaja je bilo ekstrahirano pri nevtralnih in alkalnih pogojih. Čimžanje je bilo opravljeno med barvalnim postopkom, z uporabo štirih molarnih koncentracij AgNO₃, in sicer 1, 5, 10 ter 50 mM. Barvo (CIE L*a*b* vrednosti) in UV-zaščitni faktor (UZF) pobarvanih bombažnih vzorcev smo spektofotometrično izmerili pred 10 zaporednimi pranji in po njih. Rezultati kažejo, da z večanjem molarne koncentracije srebrovega nitrata postanejo barve vzorcev temnejše, bolj rdeče in bolj modre. Barvanje z alkalnim ekstraktom zelenega čaja ni bilo tako uspešno kot z nevtralnim izvlečkom zelenega čaja. Pri barvanju z nevtralnim izvlečkom zelenega čaja in z uporabo čimže različnih molarnih koncentracij srebrovega nitrata so bili doseženi različni odtenki bombaža. Pri uporabi 50 mM AgNO₃ so bili doseženi zelo temni (skoraj črni) odtenki. Bombažni vzorci, pobarvani z nevtralnim izvlečkom zelenega čaja, so dosegli odlično UV-zaščito (50+), nekateri tudi po večkratnem pranju.

Ključne besede: barvanje, zeleni čaj, čimžanje, srebrov nitrat, barve, UV-zaščita

 

Viri

1. BECHTOLD, Thomas, TURCANU, A., GANGLBERGER, Erika and GEISSLER, Susanne. Natural dyes in modern textile dyehouses – how to combine experiences of two centuries to meet the demands of the future? Journal of Cleaner Production, 2003, 11(5), 499–509, doi: 10.1016/S0959-6526(02)00077-X.
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10. SETIAWAN, Veronica Wendy, ZHANG, Zuo-Feng, YU, Guo-Pei, LU, Qing-Yi, LI, Yong-Liang, LU, Ming-Lan, WANG, Ming-Rong, GUO, Chun Hua, YU, Shun-Zhang, KURTZ, Robert C. and HSIEH, Chung-Cheng. Protective effect of green tea on the risks of chronic gastritis and stomach cancer. International Journal of Cancer, 2001, 92(4), 600–604, doi: 10.1002/ijc.1231.
11. DALLUGE, Joseph J., NELSON, Bryant C., THOMAS, Jeanice Brown and SANDER, Lane C. Selection of column and gradient elution system for the separation of catechins in the green tea using high-performance liquid chromatography. Journal of Chromatography A, 1998, 793(2), 265–274, doi: 10.1016/S0021-9673(97)00906-0.
12. CHU, Kai On, WANG, Chi Chiu, ROGERS, Michael Scott, CHOY, Kwong Wai and PANG, Chi Pui. Determination of catechins and catechin gallates in biological fluids by HPLC with coulometric array detection and solid phase extraction. Analytica Chimica Acta, 2004, 510(1), 69–76, doi: 10.1016/j.aca.2003.12.060.
13. SON, Son-Gi, JANG, Kyung-Jin, KIM, Tae-Kyeong, JUNG, Jong-Suc and CHOI, Young-Hee. Functional dyeing and finishing using catechins extracted from green tea (II) – Evaluation of anti-oxidant activity of the fabrics treated with green tea extracts. Journal of Korean Society of Dyers and Finishers, 2008, 20(5), 7–13, doi: 10.5764/TCF.2008.20.5.007.
14. HWANG, Eun-Kyung, LEE, Young-Hee and KIM, Han-Do. Dyeing and deodorizing properties of cotton, silk, and wool fabrics dyed with various natural colorants. Journal of the Korean Society of Dyers and Finishers, 2007, 19(6), 12–20.
15. SHIN, Younsook and CHOI, Hee. Characteristics and dyeing properties of green tea colorants (Part I) – Components and characteristics of green tea colorants. Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, 1999, 23(1), 140–146.
16. SHIN, Younsook and CHOI, Hee. Characteristics and dyeing properties of green tea colorants (Part III) – Dyeing properties cotton with green tea colorants. Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, 1999, 23(4), 510–516.
17. CHOI, Suk Chul, JUNG, Jin Soun, and CHUN, Tae Il. The effect of mordants on the silk fabrics dyed with green tea extracts (I) – Analysis of natural mordants and the effect on color changes. Journal of Korean Society of Dyers and Finishers, 1999, 11(3), 15–22.
18. SON, Ji-Hyon, LEE, Myung-Sun and CHUN, Tae-Il. Catechins content and color values of silk fabrics dyed with Korean green tea extracts. Journal of Korean Society of Dyers and Finishers, 2006, 18(1), 10–19.
19. DEO, H. T.; DESAI, B. K. Dyeing of the cotton and jute with tea as a natural dye. Coloration Technology, 1999, 115(7–8), 224–227, doi: 10.1111/j.1478-4408.1999.tb00360.x.
20. KIM, Sin-hee. Dyeing characteristics and UV protection property of green tea dyed cotton fabrics – Focusing on the effect of chitosan mordanting condition. Fibers and Polymers, 2006, 7(3), 255–261, doi: 10.1007/BF02875682.
21. KIM, Sin-Hee. Ultraviolet protection property of green tea extract dyed fabrics. Journal of Korean Society of Dyers and Finishers, 2006, 18(6), 80–87.
22. KIM, Tae-Kyeong, SON, Song-I, JUNG, Jong-Suc, JANG, Kyung-Jin, KWON, Oh-Kyung, CHOI, Young-Hee and JEONG, Young-Han. Functional dyeing and finishing using catechins extracted from green tea (I) – Extraction optimization, stability, and content analysis of catechins. Journal of Korean Society of Dyers and Finishers, 2008, 20(2), 75–82, doi: 10.5764/TCF.2008.20.2.075.
23. SON, Songi, JANG, Kyungjin, KIM, Taekyeong, JUNG, Jongsuc and CHOI, Younghee. Functional dyeing and finishing using catechins extracted from green tea – dyeing optimization and fastness. Journal of Korean Society of Clothing Industry, 2009, 11(2), 344–349.
24. SHIN, Nam-Hee, KIM, Sung-Yeon and CHO, Kuyung-Rae. A study on dyeing of gray tone utilizing green tea. Journal of the Korean Society for Clothing Industry, 2006, 8(3), 343–348.
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Univerza v Ljubljani, Naravoslovnotehniška fakulteta, Oddelek za tekstilstvo, grafiko in oblikovanje, Snežniška ulica 5, SI-1000 Ljubljana

Izvirni znanstveni članek

Prispelo 04-2015 • Sprejeto 07-2015

 

Korespondenčna avtorica:

Doc. dr. Marija Gorjanc

Telefon: +386 1 2003256

E-pošta: marija.gorjanc@ntf.uni-lj.si

 

Izvleček

V raziskavi je bil proučevan vpliv čimžanja z uporabo štirih čimž v nizki koncentraciji (0,2 g/l) na obarvljivost bombažne tkanine z ekstraktom kurkume v dveh koncentracijah (za svetlo in temno obarvanje). Uporabljene čimže so bile tri kovinske soli (železov sulfat, aluminijev sulfat in cinkov klorid) in organska čimža tanin. Čimžanje je potekalo pred barvanjem, med njim in po njem oziroma pre-, meta- in postčimžanje. Določene so bile tudi barvne obstojnosti na večkratno pranje in vroče likanje. Barvne vrednosti barvanih vzorcev so bile določene z uporabo refleksijskega spektrofotometra. Raziskava je pokazala, da je obarvljivost bombaža z ekstraktom kurkume močno odvisna od uporabljene čimže in načina čimžanja. Najgloblje obarvanje je bilo doseženo pri bombažu, barvanem z višjo koncentracijo ekstrakta kurkume, ki je bil čimžan z aluminijevim sulfatom pred barvanjem. Barvne obstojnosti na pranje in vroče likanje so se z uporabo čimž na splošno izboljšale, najbolj za vzorec, metačimžan z železovim sulfatom.

Ključne besede: bombaž, kurkuma, čimža, barvanje z naravnimi barvili, obarvljivost

 

Viri

1. SAMANTA, Ashis Kumar and KONAR, Adwaita. Chapter 3. Dyeing of textiles with natural dyes. In: Natural Dyes. Edited by: Emriye Akçakoca Kumbasar. InTech, 2011, p. 29−56, doi: 10.5772/21341.
2. IBRAHIM, N. A., EL-GAMAL, A. R., GOUDA, M. and MAHROUS, F. A new approach for natural dyeing and functional finishing of cotton cellulose. Carbohydrate Polymers, 2010, 82(4), 1205–1211, doi: 10.1016/j.carbpol.2010.06.054.
3. LAMBERT, Eva and KENDALL, Tracy. The complete guide to natural dyeing : techniques and recipes for dyeing fabrics, yarns, and fibers at home. Loveland: Interweave Press, 2010, 143 p.
4. ADEEL, Shahid, BHATTI, Ijaz A., KAUSAR, Afifah and OSMAN, Eman. Influence of UV radiations on the extraction and dyeing of cotton fabric with Curcuma longa L. Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research, 2012, 37(1), 87−90.
5. Turmeric: The genus Curcuma. Edited by P. N. Ravindran, K. Nirmal Babu, K. Sivaraman. Boca Raton : CRC Press, 2007.
6. EL-SHISHTAWY, Reda M., SHOKRY, G. M., AHMED, Nahed S. E.and KAMEL M. M. Dyeing of modified acrylic fibers with curcumin and madder natural dyes. Fibers and Polymers, 2009, 10(5), 617–624, doi: 0.1007/s12221-010-0617-4.
7. BHATTI, Ijaz, A., ADEEL, Shahid, JAMAL, M. Asghar, SAFDAR, Muhammad and ABBAS, Muhammad. Influence of gamma radiation on the colour strenght and fastness properties of fabric using turmeric (Curcuma longa L.) as natural dye. Radiation Physics and Chemistry, 2010, 79(5), 622–625, doi: 10.1016/j.radphyschem.2009.12.006.
8. JAYAPRAKASHA, Guddadarangavvanahally K., RAO, Lingamullu Jagan Mohan and SAKARIAH, Kunnumpurath K. Improved HPLC method for the determination of curcumin, demethoxycurcumin, and bisdemethoxycurcumin. Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry, 2002, 50(13), 3668–3672, doi: 10.1021/jf025506a.
9. MARGARETA, Sequin-Frey. The chemistry of plant and animal dyes. Journal of Chemical Education, 1981, 58(4), 301–305, doi: 10.1021/ed058p301.
10. MALEKINA, S. G., MIRZAPOUR, H., NOROUZI, M. Antibacterial properties and color fastness of silk fabric dyed with turmeric extract. Fibers and Polymers, 2013, 14(2), 201–207, doi: 10.1007/s12221-013-0201-9.
11. MIRJALILI, Mohammad and LOGHMAN, Karimi. Antibacterial dyeing of polyamide using turmeric as natural dye. Autex Research Journal, 2013, 13(2), 51–56, doi: 10.2478/v10304-012-0023-7.
12. UMBREEN, Saima, SHAUKAT, Ali, TANVEER, Hussain and NAWAZ, Rakhshanda. Dyeing properties of natural dyes extracted from turmeric and their comparison with reactive dyeing. Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, 2008, 12(4), 1–11.
13. BERGER-SCHUNN, Anni. Practical color measurement : a primer for the beginner : a reminder for the expert. Edited by J. W. Goodman. New York [etc.] : Wiley, 1994.
14. SIMONČIČ, Barbara. Teoretične osnove barvanja. Ljubljana: Naravoslovnotehniška fakulteta, Oddelek za tekstilstvo, 2009, 120 p.
15. GRIFONI, Daniele, BACCI, Laura, Di LONARDO, Sara, PINELLI, Patrizia, SCARDIGLI, Arianna, CAMILLI, Francesca, SABATINI, Francesco, ZIPOLI, Gaetano and ROMANI, Annalisa. UV protective properties of cotton and flax fabrics dyed with multifunctional plant extracts. Dyes and Pigments, 2014, 105, 89–96, doi: 10.1016/j.dyepig.2014.01.027.
16. KAVIRAYANI, Indira Priyadarsini. The chemistry of curcumin: From extraction to therapeutic agent. Molecules, 2014, 19(12), 20091–20112, doi: 10.3390/molecules191220091.

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Univerza v Ljubljani, Naravoslovnotehniška fakulteta, Oddelek za tekstilstvo, grafiko in oblikovanje, Snežniška ulica 5, SI-1000 Ljubljana

Izvirni znanstveni članek

Prispelo 05-2015 • Sprejeto 08-2015

 

Korespondenčna avtorica:

Doc. dr. Maja Klančnik

Telefon: +386 1 200 32 64

E-pošta: maja.klancnik@ntf.uni-lj.si

Izvleček

Pripravljene so bile tri odpadne vode, ki so bile onesnažene s sitotiskarsko barvo: cian, magenta in rumene barve v dveh različnih koncentracijah. Odpadne vode so bile čiščene s koagulacijo in flokulacijo ter primerjalno z adsorpcijo. Za adsorpcijsko čiščenje so bile uporabljene različne koncentracije prahastega aktivnega oglja, zrnatega aktivnega oglja in zmletih pomarančnih olupkov, kot primer poceni in biološko razgradljivega adsorbenta. Učinkovitost čiščenja odpadnih voda po koagulaciji, po kombinaciji koagulacije in flokulacije ter po adsorpciji je bila ovrednotena z zmanjšanjem obarvanosti odpadnih voda s pomočjo transmisijskega spektrofotometra in z odstranitvijo organskih snovi, izraženih kot celotni organski ogljik (TOC) na TOC-analizatorju. Rezultati so pokazali, da je s čiščenjem odpadne vode s koagulacijo dosežena ustrezna stopnja zmanjšanja obarvanosti (povprečne SAK-vrednosti pri 438 nm 1,2 m-1, pri 525 nm 0,7 m-1 in pri 620 nm 0,5 m-1) in vsebnosti organskih snovi (TOC-vrednosti pod 19 mg C/l) za odvajanje v kanalizacijo in površinske vode. Nadaljnje čiščenje s flokulacijo ni izboljšalo učinka čiščenja odpadnih voda. Pri čiščenju odpadnih voda, onesnaženih z manjšo koncentracijo tiskarske barve, je bila adsorpcija na aktivno oglje v prahu glede na zmanjšanje vsebnosti organskih snovi (TOC-vrednosti pod 3 mg C/l) nekoliko učinkovitejša kot koagulacija. Pri čiščenju odpadnih voda, onesnaženih z večjo koncentracijo tiskarske barve, pa se je kot najučinkovitejša pokazala koagulacija. Aktivno oglje v granulah se je izkazalo za precej slabši adsorbent kot aktivno oglje v prahu in v primeru tiskarske barve magenta je bilo povsem neučinkovito. Zmleti pomarančni olupki so bili za spremljanje adsorpcijskega čiščenja problematični, ker sami pripomorejo k obarvanju in k visokim vrednostim celotnega organskega ogljika (TOC), vendar pa so se pokazali kot učinkovitejši adsorbent kot aktivno oglje v granulah.

Ključne besede: sitotiskarska barva, odpadna voda, čiščenje, koagulacija, adsorpcija

 

Viri

1. Uredba o emisiji snovi in toplote pri odvajanju odpadnih voda v vode in javno kanalizacijo. Priloga 2 [dostopno na daljavo], Uradni list RS, št. 64/12 in 64/14 [citirano 15.6.2015]. Dostopno na svetovnem spletu <https://www.uradni-list.si/1/content?id=109650>.
2. METEŠ, Azra, KOPRIVANAC, Natalija in GLASNOVIC, Antun. Flocculation as a treatment method for printing ink wastewater. Water Enviroment Research, 2000, 72(6), 680–688, doi: 10.2175/106143000×138292.
3. ROUSSY, J., CHASTELLAN, Philippe, van VOOREN, Maurice in GUIBAL, Eric. Treatment of ink-containing wastewater by coagulation/flocculation using biopolymers. Water SA, 2005, 31(3), 369–376,doi: 10.4314/wsa.v31i3.5208.
4. KLANČNIK, Maja in ŽIDANIK, Andreja. Coagulation and flocculation process as printing ink wastewater treatment. V 11th International Conference on Printing, Design and Graphic Communications Blaž Baromić, 26.−29 September 2007. Zadar, Croatia, 2007.
5. KLANČNIK, Maja in URBANC, Meta. Adsorption treatment of printing ink wastewater. V 13th International Conference on Printing, Design and Graphic Communications Blaž Baromić. Uredil Z. Bolanča. Zagreb : University of Zagreb, Faculty of Graphic Arts, 2009, 79–82.
6. KLANČNIK, Maja in ŽUVELA, Tanja. Treatment of wastewater containing flexographic printing ink by activated carbon and orange peel. V 5th International Symposium on Novelties and Graphics. Uredila Barbara Simončič. Ljubljana : Naravoslovnotehniška fakulteta, 2010, 846–850.
7. KLANČNIK, Maja. Coagulation and adsorption treatment of printing ink wastewater, Acta Graphica, 25(3–4), 2014, 73–82.
8. TREBIŽAN, Uroš. Čiščenje odpadne vode pri tiskanju s pigmentnimi barvili : diplomsko delo. Ljubljana. Univerza v Ljubljani, Naravoslovnotehniška fakulteta, Oddelek za tekstilstvo, 2002.
9. MCKAY, G.E.L., GEUNDI, M.S. in NASSAR, M.M. Equilibrium studies during the removal of dyestuff from aqueous solution using bagasse pith. Water Research, 1987, 21(12), 1513–1520, doi: 10.1016/0043-1354(87)90135-7.
10. AZHAR, Saiful S., LIEW, A. Ghaniey, SUHARDY, D., HAFIZ, K. Farizul in HATIM, M. D. Irfan. Dye removal from aqueous solution by using adsorption on treated sugarcane bagasse. American Journal of Applied Sciences, 2005, 2(11), 1499–1503, doi: 10.3844/ajassp.2005.1499.1503.
11. SIVARAJ, Rajeshwari, NAMASIVAYAM, C. in KADIRVELU, K. Orange peel as an adsorbent in the removal of Acid violet 17 (acid dye) from aqueous solutions. Waste Management, 2001, 21(1), 105–110, doi: 10.1016/s0956-053x(00)00076-3.
12. ARAMI, Mokhtar, LIMAEE, Narggess Yousefi, MAHMOODI, Niyaz Mohammad in TABRIZI, Nooshin Salman. Removal of dyes from colored textile wastewater by orange peel adsorbent: Equilibrium and kinetics studies. Journal of Colloid and Interface Science, 2005, 288(2), 371–376, doi: 10.1016/j.jcis.2005.03.020.
13. BENAÏSSA. H. Removal of acid dyes from aqueous solutions using orange peel as a sorbent material. Ninth International Water Technology Conference, IWTC9, 2005, Sharm El-Sheikh, Egypt, p. 1175–1187. Dostopno na svetovnem spletu: <http://iwtc.info/2005_pdf/17-3.pdf>.
14. ARDEJANI, Doulati F., BADII, Kh., LIMAEE, N. Yousefi, MAHMOODI, N. M., ARAMI, M., SHAFAEI, S. Z. in MIRHABIBI, A. R. Numerical modelling and laboratory studies on the removal of Direct Red 23 and Direct Red 80 dyes from textile effluents using orange peel, a low-cost adsorbent. Dyes and Pigments, 2007, 73(2), 178–185, doi: :10.1016/j.dyepig.2005.11.011.
15. VASANTH KUMAR, K. in PORKODI, K. Batch adsorber design for different solution volume/adsorbent mass ratios using the experimental equilibrium data with fixed solution volume/adsorbent mass ratio of malachite green onto orange peel. Dyes and Pigments, 2007, 74(3), 590–594, doi: 10.1016/j.dyepig.2006.03.024.
16. OLAJIRE, A. A., GIWA A. A. in BELLO, L. A. Competitive adsorption of dye species from aqueos solution onto melon husk in single and ternary dye system. International Journal of Environmental Science and Technology, 2015, 12(3), 939–950, doi: 10.1007/s13762-013-0469-8.
17. TABOR, Tanja in KLANČNIK, Maja. Adsorption of printing ink from wastewater. V: Proceedings. 7th Symposium of Information and Graphic Arts Technology, Ljubljana, 5–6 June 2014. Uredila Raša URBAS. Ljubljana: Naravoslovnotehniška fakulteta, Oddelek za tekstilstvo, 2014, 235–240.

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Univerza v Ljubljani, Naravoslovnotehniška fakulteta, Oddelek za tekstilstvo, Snežniška ulica 5, SI-1000 Ljubljana

Izvirni znanstveni članek

Prispelo 03-2015 • Sprejeto 04-2015

 

Korespondenčna avtorica:

Doc. dr. Dejana Javoršek

E-pošta: dejana.javorsek@ntf.uni-lj.si

 

Izvleček

Prikazovanje želene barve na zaslonu na spletu je še vedno ključni del uspeha za slikarje in fotografe. Namen naše raziskave je bil primerjati natančnost in različnost prikazanih barv na različnih napravah ter med modeli posamezne naprave. Analiziranih je bilo sedem Applovih zaslonov različnih naprav (iPad 2, iPad 3, iPad Mini, iPhone 4, iPhone 5, iMac ter MacBook Pro) v dveh brskalnikih, Chrome in Safari. Pri napravi iMac je bil uporabljen barvni profil zaslona iMac, pri MacBook Pro pa je bil uporabljen barvni profil Colour LCD. Barvni prostori naprav so prikazani v barvnem diagramu CIE x, y in CIELAB ter primerjani s standardnim barvnim prostorom sRGB. Rezultati kažejo, da na prikaz barv na različnih napravah v veliki meri vpliva predvsem kakovost zaslona. Pri napravah, ki podpirajo barvne profile, na prikaz barv vpliva tudi izbira brskalnika. Pri napravah z vključenim barvnim profilom zaslona je pomembno, da izberemo brskalnik, ki ima omogočeno barvno upravljanje, ki izbrani profil upošteva. V našem primeru brskalnik Safari upošteva določen profil zaslona, medtem ko brskalnik Chrome barvnih profilov zaslona ne upošteva in rezultati so odvisni od drugih dejavnikov. Ti rezultati so pomembni tako za grafične in modne oblikovalce kot tudi za tekstilne tehnologe, ki želijo potencialnim strankam predstaviti svoje delo in izdelke na različnih napravah.

Ključne besede: barvno upravljanje, brskalniki, prikazovalne naprave, barvni prostori

 

Viri

1. WONG, Alice. Colour Management for Web Browsers [online], Graphic Comunication, Senior project 2010, College of Liberal Arts, California Polytechnic State University, 2010, [accessed 28.5.2014]. Available on World Wide Web: <http://digitalcommons.calpoly.edu/grcsp/29/>.
2. JAVORŠEK, Dejana, MUCK, Tadeja in KARLOVIĆ, Igor. Reproduciranje barv in barvno upravljanje. Ljubljana: Univerza v Ljubljani, Naravoslovnotehniška fakulteta, Oddelek za tekstilstvo, 2013, pp. 275.
3. Smartphone Users Worldwide Will Total 1.75 Billion in 2014 [online], emarketer.com/Article/Smartphone-Users-Worldwide-Will-Total-175-Billion-2014 [accessed 16.2.2014]. Available on World Wide Web: <http://www.emarketer.com/Article/Smartphone-Users-Worldwide-Will-Total-175-Billion-2014/1010536>.
4. SHANKAR, Venkatesh, VENKATESH, Alladi, HOFACKER, Charles and NAIK, Prasad. Mobile marketing in the retailing environment: current insights and future research avenues. Journal of interactive marketing, 2010, 24(2), 111–120, http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.intmar.2010.02.006.
5. KERBS, W. Robert. An Empirical Comparison of User Color Preferences in Electronic Interface Design [online], California State Polytechnic University, 2003 [accessed 16.2.2014]. Available on World Wide Web: <http://www.hft.org/HFT03/paper03/05_Ker.pdf>.
6. PRASAD, Shitala; KUMAR, Piyush; SINHA, Kumari Priyanka. Grayscale to Color Map Transformation for Efficient Image Analysis on Low Processing Devices. In: Advances in Intelligent Informatics. Editor: El-Sayed M. El-Alfy et al., Springer International Publishing Switzerland, 2015, 9–18, http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-11218-3_2.
7. ICC Colour Management [online], International Colour Consortium [accessed 16.2.2014]. Available on World Wide Web: <http://www.colour.org/slidepres2003.pdf>.
8. ZORIĆ, Vladimir and KARLOVIĆ, Igor. Color Reproduction on Tablet Devices, Acta Graphica, 2014, 25(1–2), 31-36.
9. DUGGAN, Seán. Colour management: Use the correct ICC profile for web images [online]. [accessed 12.4.2014]. Available on World Wide Web: <http://www.seanduggan.com/technique/downloads/ICCprofiles_web_images.pdf>.
10. LIPERA, Roger. Introduction to Colour & the Web [online]. Interactive Media Center, University at Albany [accessed 1.3.2015]. Available on World Wide Web: <http://library.albany.edu/imc/webcolor/color3_3.html>.
11. PREISTER, Gary W. Htmlgoodies. Consistent Colors For Your Site – All You Need To Know About Web Safe Colors [online]. HTMLGoodies Staff [accessed 12.3.2014]. Available on World Wide Web: <http://www.htmlgoodies.com/tutorials/web_graphics/consistent-colors-for-your-site-all-you-need-to-know-about-web-safe-colors.html>.
12. TINDEMANS, Simon. Web browser colour management [online]. Initial publication, 2012 [accessed 15.2.2013]. Available on World Wide Web: <http://simon.tindemans.eu/cm/webcm>.
13. PILI, Fábio. Web browser colour management guide [online]. Published by Fábio Pili, 2010 [accessed 1.3.2015]. Available on World Wide Web: <http://cameratico.com/guides/web-browser-color-management-guide>.
14. Colour Management in Safari [online]. Technical Note TN2220, Safari Developer Library [accessed 1.3.2015]. Available on World Wide Web: <https://developer.apple.com/library/safari/technotes/tn2220/_index.html>.

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Univerza v Ljubljani, Naravoslovnotehniška fakulteta, Oddelek za tekstilstvo, Snežniška ulica 5, SI-1000 Ljubljana

Pregledni znanstveni članek

Prispelo 04-2014 • Sprejeto 05-2015

 

Korespondenčna avtorica:

Izr. prof. dr. Alenka Pavko Čuden

Tel.: +386 1 200 32 16

E-pošta: alenka.cuden@ntf.uni-lj.si

 

Izvleček

Na votkovne pletene strukture vplivajo različne deformacije zanke. Nagnjenost in izkrivljenost zank v pleteni strukturi sta poznani kot poševnost oz. spiralnost pletiva. Vzroki za poševnost in spiralnost so podrobno preiskani, analizirani in ocenjeni. Na splošno jih je mogoče razdeliti v dve skupini: v materialne in procesne. Eden od materialnih vzrokov je povezan s prejo; poševnost/spiralnost pletiva povzroča preostali vrtilni moment preje, ki se odraža v neumirjenosti preje. Med najpomembnejšimi procesnimi vzroki je povezanost s pletilnikom, ki se nanaša na večsistemsko krožno pletenje. Raziskave poševnosti in spiralnosti pletiva potekajo že skoraj sto let. Razviti so bili modeli za razumevanje in predvidevanje deformacije zanke. Ves čas razvijajo in izboljšujejo postopke za zmanjšanje ali celo odstranitev poševnosti/spiralnosti. Nekateri vključujejo spremembe surovin, drugi spremembe mehanskih postopkov in/ali opreme, medtem ko se preostali usmerjajo v plemenitenje. V raziskavah in industrijski praksi so bili za merjenje poševnosti in spiralnosti uporabljeni številni standardi in druge preskuševalne metode. Uporaba številnih izrazov, ki opisujejo pojav poševnosti/spiralnosti, kaže na trajen pomen problema na eni strani in na nedoslednost terminologije na drugi.

Ključne besede: pletenje, pletivo, poševnost, spiralnost, nagnjenost zanke, neumirjenost preje, preostali vrtilni moment

 

Viri

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Univerza v Ljubljani, Naravoslovnotehniška fakulteta, Oddelek za tekstilstvo, Snežniška 5, 1000 Ljubljana

Izvirni znanstveni članek

Prispelo 03-2014 • Sprejeto 05-2015

 

Korespondenčna avtorica:

Izr. prof. dr. Sabina Bračko

Telefon: +386 1 200 32 38

E-pošta: sabina.bracko@ntf.uni-lj.si

 

Izvleček

Človeška koža je kompleksen in nepredvidljiv organ, katerega barva se na področju znanosti objektivno vrednoti z uporabo barvne metrike. Na rezultate merjenja vplivajo številni dejavniki, ki še niso v celoti opredeljeni. Nekateri dejavniki neposredno določajo barvo kože, so odvisni od posameznika ter jih ne moremo nadzorovati. Poudarek raziskave pa je bil na drugi skupini dejavnikov, ki se nanašajo na pogoje merjenja in so spremenljivi in prilagodljivi. Tako je bil namen raziskave proučiti vpliv števila zaporednih meritev, izbora dela telesa, lokacije točke v določenem delu telesa, velikosti merilne odprtine ter temperature na barvo kože. Ocenjeni sta bili tudi primernost uporabljenih instrumentov in ponovljivost rezultatov merjenja v odvisnosti od števila zaporednih meritev ter izbrane velikosti merilne odprtine. Meritve so bile izvedene z dvema različnima refleksijskima spektrofotometroma, sodelovalo pa je skupaj šest prostovoljcev. V okviru meritev so bili omenjeni pogoji načrtno spreminjani, rezultati pa so bili podani v obliki refleksijskih spektrov, CIEL^*a^*b^* koordinat, barvnih razlik ΔE^*_ab, sprememb svetlosti ΔL^*, sprememb nasičenosti ΔC^*_ab ter sprememb barvnega tona ΔH^*_ab v barvnem prostoru CIELAB. Vsi proučevani dejavniki so izkazali velik vpliv na rezultate merjenja barve kože. V raziskavi je bilo ugotovljeno, da za dobro ponovljivost rezultatov merjenja zadošča deset zaporednih meritev v eni točki. Odsvetovana je uporaba najmanjših merilnih odprtin, ker te ne omogočajo dovolj visoke ponovljivosti. Priporočena sta tudi natančno definiranje dela telesa in posameznih točk merjenja v odvisnosti od namena in vzdrževanje take temperature okolja, ki čim manj moti normalno temperaturo površine kože.

Ključne besede: človeška koža, barva kože, merjenje barve, spektrofotometrija, barvni prostor CIELAB

 

Viri

1. Skin Problems & Treatments Health Center [online], WebMD [accessed 15.9.2014]. Available on World Wide Web: <http://www.webmd.com/skin-problems-and-treatments/picture-of-the-skinw>.
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1Univerzitet u Banjoj Luci, Tehnološki fakultet

²Universitet u Novom Sadu, Tehnološki fakultet

Strokovni članek

Prispelo 07-2014 • /Sprejeto 12-2014

 

Korespondenčni avtor:

MSc Mladen Stančić

E-pošta: mladen.stancic@unibl.rs

 

Izvleček

Oblačila so med uporabo in vzdrževanjem izpostavljena različnim vplivom, med katerimi sta najpogostejša pranje in izpostavljenost telesnemu znoju. Omenjena učinka povzročata določene spremembe na vlaknih in barvnih odtisih tekstilnih materialov. V članku je predstavljena raziskava vpliva znojenja in zaporednih pranj barvnih odtisov na tekstilnih materialih, izdelanih v tehniki sitotiska. Proučevani sta bili reprodukcija barv s spektrofotometrično analizo in sposobnost zadrževanja vode. Izsledki raziskave kažejo, da s povečanjem števila pranj prihaja do večjih sprememb barvnih odtisov. Ugotovljeno je bilo tudi, da poleg več zaporednih pranj na barvo odtisov vpliva tudi znojenje. Potrjen je bil vpliv tiskanja in pranja na sposobnost zadrževanja vode v tekstilnih materialih.

Ključne besede: sitotisk, pranje, vpliv znojenja, kakovost tiska, barvna reprodukcija, sposobnost zadrževanja vode

 

Viri

1. GRUJIĆ, Dragana. Uticaj svojstava materijala na toplotno fiziološku udobnost odjeće. Doktorska disertacija. Maribor: Univerza v Mariboru, Fakulteta za strojništvo, Maribor, 2010.
2. TIPPET, Brooks G. The Evolution and progression of digital textile printing [online] [accessed 31.3.2014]. Available from: <http://www.brookstippett.com/docs/Print2002-BGT.pdf>.
3. ONAR ÇATAL, Deniz, ÖZGÜNEY, Arif T. AKÇAKOCA KUMBASAR E. Perrin. The influence of rheological properties of the pretreatment thickeners on ink-jet printing quality. Tekstil ve Konfeksiyon, 2012, 22(4), 309–316.
4. MOMIN, Nasar Harun Chitosan and improved pigment ink jet printing on textiles : PhD Thesis. Melbourne: RMIT University, 2008.
5. KAŠIKOVIĆ, Nemanja, NOVAKOVIĆ, Dragoljub, KARLOVIĆ, Igor, VLADIĆ, Gojko. Influence of ink layers on the quality of ink jet printed textile materials. Tekstil ve Konfeksiyon, 2012, 22(2), 115–124.
6. KIATKAMJORNWONG, S., PUTTHIMAI, P., NOGUCHI, H. Comparison of textile print quality between inkjet and screen printings. Surface Coatings International Part B: Coatings Transactions, 2005, 88(1), 25–34, http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/BF02699704.
7. LEE, Taik-Min, CHOI, Yong-Jung, NAM, Su-Yong, YOU, Choon-Woo, NA, Dae-Yup., CHOI, Hyeon-Cheol, SHIN, Dong-Youn, KIM, Kwang-Young, JUNG, Kwang-Il. Color filter patterned by screen printing. Thin Solid Films, 2008, 21(5), 516, 7875–7880, http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.tsf.2008.05.044.
8. KREBS, Frederik C., JØRGENSEN, Mikkel, NORRMAN, Kion, HAGEMANN, Ole, ALSTRUP, Jan, NIELSEN, T, FYENBO, Jan, LARSEN, Kaj, KRISTENSEN, Jette. A complete process for production of flexible large area polymer solar cells entirely using screen printing–First public demonstration. Solar Energy Materials and Solar Cells, 2009, 93(4), 422–441, http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.solmat.2008.12.001.
9. STANČIĆ, Mladen, NOVAKOVIĆ, Dragoljub, TOMIĆ, Ivana, KARLOVIĆ, Igor. Influence of substrate and screen thread count on reproduction of image elements in screen printing. Acta Graphica, 2012, 23(1), 1–12.
10. SZENTGYÖRGYVÖLGY, Rozália, BORBÉLY, Ákos. Printability of PVC and PS substrates by screen printing. Óbuda University e-Bulletin, 2012, 2(1), 293–300.
11. INGRAM, Samuel. Screen printing primer. Sewickley: GATF Press, 1999.
12. PAN, Jianbiao, TONKAY, Gregory L., QUINTERO, Alejandro. Screen printing process design of experiments for fine line printing of thick film ceramic substrates. Proceedings of International Symposium on Microelectronics. San Diego, California, USA: 1998, 264–269.
13. PHAIR, John W., LUNDBERG, Mats, KAISER, Andreas. Leveling and thixotropic characteristi­cs of concentrated zirconia inks for screen-printing. Rheologica Acta, 2009, 48(2), 121–133, http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/s00397-008-0301-4.
14. NOVAKOVIĆ, Dragoljub, PAVLOVIĆ, Živko, KAŠIKOVIĆ, Nemanja Tehnike štampe – praktikum za vežbe. Novi Sad : Fakultet tehničkih nauka, 2011, p. 181.
15. KALANTZI, Styliani, MAMMA, Diomi, KALOGERIS, Emmanuel, KEKOS, Dimitris. Improved properties of cotton fabrics treated with lipase and its combination with pectinase. Fibres and Textiles in Eastern Europe, 2010, 18(5), 86–92.
16. TOMŠIČ, Brigita, SIMONČIČ, Barbara, OREL, Boris, ČERNE, Lidija, FORTE TAVČER, Petra, ZORKO, Mateja, JERMAN, Ivan, VILČNIK, Aljaž, KOVAČ, Janez. Sol–gel coating of cellulose fibres with antimicrobial and repellent properties. Journal of Sol-Gel Science and Technology, 2008, 47(1), 44–57, http://dx.doi.org/10.1002/app.30677.
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21. NOVAKOVIĆ, Dragoljub, KARLOVIĆ, Igor, PAVLOVIĆ, Živko, PEŠTERAC, Čedomir. Reprodukciona tehnika. Praktikum za vežbe. Novi Sad: Fakultet tehničkih nauka, 2009, p. 86.
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¹Univerza v Mariboru, Fakulteta za strojništvo, Smetanova 17, 2000 Maribor

²IOS, d. o. o., Inšitut za okoljevarstvo in senzorje, Beloruska 7, 2000 Maribor

Pregledni znanstveni članek

Prispelo 10-2014 • Sprejeto 02-2015

Korespondenčna avtorica:

red. prof. dr. Aleksandra Lobnik

Telefon: +386 2 220 79 12

E-pošta: lobnikaleksandra@gmail.com

 

Izvleček

Razvoj nanomaterialov in njihova uporaba v tekstilstvu sta velika priložnost za izdelavo novih izdelkov z različnimi funkcionalnimi in tehnološkimi lastnostmi, vendar razvoj poleg priložnosti pomeni tveganja za okolje in zdravje ljudi v obliki nanoonesnaževanja ter toksičnih vplivov na žive organizme. V prispevku so obravnavani okoljski vplivi in zdravstvena tveganja nanomaterialov, ki se najpogosteje uporabljajo v tekstilstvu, kot npr. nanodelci srebra (Ag), silicijevega dioksida (SiO₂), titanovega dioksida (TiO₂), cinkovega oksida (ZnO), aluminijevega oksida (Al₂O₃), aktivnega oglja, nanoglina in ogljikove nanocevke (CNT).

Ključne besede: nanotehnologija, nanomateriali, življenjski cikel izdelka, nanodelci srebra, nanodelci silicijevega dioksida, nanodelci titanovega dioksida, nanodelci cinkovega oksida, nanodelci aluminijevega oksida,

nanoglina, ogljikove nanocevke, toksičnost

 

Viri

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2. LAKIĆ, Marijana, KOŠAK, Aljoša, GUTMAHER, Andreja, LOBNIK, Aleksandra. Nanomateriali za uporabo v funkcionalnih tekstilijah. Tekstilec, 57(2), 139–152, doi: 10.14502/Tekstilec2014.57.139–152.
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114. HELLAND, Aasgeir, WICK, Peter, KOEHLER, Andreas, SCHMID, Kaspar, SOM, Claudia. Reviewing the environmental and human health knowledgebase of carbon nanotubes. Environmental Health Perspectives, 2007, 115(8), 1125–1131, doi: 10.1289/ehp.9652.
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¹University of Ljubljana, Faculty of Natural Sciences and Engineering, Department of Textiles, Snežniška ulica 5, SI-1000 Ljubljana

²Predilnica Litija, Kidričeva 1, SI-1270 Litija

Izvirni znanstveni članek

Prispelo 01-2015 • Sprejeto 02-2015

Korespondenčna avtorica:

Doc. dr. Dunja Šajn Gorjanc

E-mail: dunja.sajn@ntf.uni-lj.si

 

Izvleček

Raziskava je usmerjena na vpliv ognjevarnih modakrilnih vlaken v prstanski preji iz mešanice modakrilnih in bombažnih vlaken in elektroprevodnih kovinskih vlaken v prstanski preji iz mešanice poliestrskih in kovinskih vlaken na mehanske lastnosti v območju manjših (uporabnih) obremenitev. Analizirane preje so namenjene za izdelavo zaščitnih oblačil (ognjevarnih in elektroprevodnih), tako se raziskava osredinja na viskoelastično območje manjših obremenitev na krivulji napetost/raztezek, tj. pri napetosti 5 cN/tex, kar pomeni obremenitev mase 85 g. Raziskava je pokazala, da ognjevarna modakrilna vlakna (MAC) v mešanici iz 55 % modakrilnih 45 % bombažnih vlaken vplivajo na povečanje elastičnega območja (napetost in raztezek v meji polzišča), na drugi strani pa vplivajo na znižanje modula elastičnosti prstanske preje. Vsebnost MTF (iz nerjavnega jekla) vlaken v mešanici iz 75 % PES in 25 % MTF vlaken vpliva na zmanjšanje elastičnega območja za okrog 10 %, na drugi strani pa se vrednosti elastičnega območja gibljejo v mejah območja manjših (uporabnih) obremenitev na krivulji specifična napetost/raztezek, ki znaša 5 cN/tex oziroma 85 g.

Ključne besede: modakrilna vlakna, kovinska vlakna, prstanska preja, mehanske lstnosti, viskoelastične lastnosti

 

Viri

1. SCOTT, Richard, A. Textiles for Protection. Edited by R. A. Scott. Cambridge : Woodhead Publishing, 2005, pp. 3–22.
2. HORROCKS, A. R., SUBHASH, C. Anand. Handbook of Technical Textiles, Edited by A. Richard Horrocks, C. Subhash Anand. 1^st Edition. Cambridge : Woodhead Publishing, 2000, pp. 42–60.
3. LAWRENCE, Carl A. Fundamentals of Spun Yarn Technology. Boca Raton : CRC Press, 2003, pp. 38–44.
4. NDLOVU, Lloyd N., CUNCHAO, Han, CHONGWEN, Yu. Mechanical and FR properties of different ratios of cotton/polysulfonamide (PSA) core spun and blended yarns, Journal of Engineered Fibres and Fabrics, 2014, 9(4), 24–33.
5. VALASEVIČIŪTĖ, L., MILAŠIUS, R., BAGDONIENĖ, R., ABRAITIENĖ, A. Investigation of end-use properties of fabrics from metaaramid yarns. Materials Science, 2003, 9(4), 391–394.
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8. Textile Innovation Knowledge Platform dostopno na daljavo, TIKP citirano 10.12.2014. Dostopno na svetovnem spletu: http://www.tikp.co.uk/>.
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¹The University of Georgia, College of Family and Consumer Science, Department of Textiles, Merchandising and Interiors, Athens, GA 30602, USA

²Donghua University, College of Textiles, Shanghai 201620, People’s Republic of China

³Key Lab of Textile Science and Technology, Ministry of Education, Shanghai 201620, People’s Republic of China

Izvirni znanstveni članek

Prispelo 09-2014 • Sprejeto 01-2015

Korespondenčni avtor:

Xiaosong Liu

Tel.: 00 1 404 86 13681956267

E-pošta: xiaosongliu7405@aiyun.com

 

Izvleček

Poliestrska vlakna profiliranega prečnega prereza so bila encimsko obdelana z lipazami in kutinazami. Raziskan je bil vpliv specifične obdelave na odboj svetlobe in barvne spremembe vlaken. Rezultati so pokazali, da lipaze L0777 niso vplivale na odboj svetlobe s površine vlaken, ne glede na čas obdelave ali spremembo vrednosti pH. Kutinaze so povzročile luknjičavost na površju vlaken pri 24-urni obdelavi pri temperaturi 55 ^oC in vrednosti pH 7,00 in 8,50. Spremembe so bile spremljane z odbojem svetlobe in spremembo barve ter elektronsko mikroskopskimi posnetki površja vlaken. Krivulje širokokotnega sipanja rentgenskih žarkov (WAXD) s kutinazami obdelanih vzorcev so pokazale manjše spremembe strukture, ki pa so lahko posledica delovanja toplote in ne encimske obdelave. Rezultati diferencialne kalorimetrije (DSC) kažejo povečanje površine eksotermnega vrha pri temperaturi 265 ^oC, kar dokazuje rekristalizacijo vlaken pri vlaknih, encimsko obdelanih s kutinazami.

Ključne besede: odboj svetlobe, barva, lipaze, kutinaze, poliestrska tkanina

 

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53. EBERL, Anita, HEUMANN, Sonja, BRUCKNER, Tina, ARAUJO, Rita, CAVACO‒PAULO, Artur, KAUFMANN, Franz, KROUTIL, Wolfgang, GUEBITZ, Georg M. Enzymatic surface hydrolysis of poly(ethylene terephthalate) and bis(benzoyloxyethyl) terephthalate by lipase and cutinase in the presence of surface active molecules. Journal of Biotechnology, 2009, 143(3), 207‒212, doi: 10.1016/j.jbiotec.2009.07.008.

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University of Zagreb, Faculty of Textile Technology, Department of Textile Chemistry and Ecology, Prilaz baruna Filipovića 28a, HR-10 000 Zagreb, Croatia

Pregledni znanstveni članek

Prispelo 06-2014 • Sprejeto 01-2015

Korespondenčna avtorica:

Kristina Šimić, B.Sc.

Tel: 00 385 148 77 353

E-pošta: kristina.simic@ttf.hr

 

Izvleček

Celulaze so encimi, namenjeni površinski modifikaciji celuloznih tekstilij, predvsem pri plemenitenju tekstilij. Večkomponentni sistem encimov hidrolizira celulozne makromolekule na površju vlaken do glukoze. Z uporabo celulaz pri plemenitenju tekstilij se odstranijo štrleča vlakna na površju tekstilije, s čimer postane obdelano površje gladko. Med najpomembnejše vrste uporabe celulaz spada plemenitenje denim jeansa, kjer dosežejo posebne učinke brez bistvenega znižanja trdnosti tkanine. Encimi so učinkoviti v blagih pogojih vrednosti pH in temperature in so lahko biorazgradljivi.

Ključne besede: encimi, celulaze, tekstilna vlakna, plemenitenje

 

Viri

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