Department of Textile Technology, National Institute of Technology, Jalandhar-144011, Punjab, India

Original Scientific Article

Received 10-2014 • Accepted 11-2014

Corresponding author:

PhD Sujit Kumar Sinha

E-mail: sinhask@nitj.ac.in

 

Abstract

The structural modification of yarn is opening up new fields of application. In the present study, the structure of polyester/polyvinyl alcohol (PVAL) blended ring spun yarns was modified with a dissolution of PVAL, while the yarns were prepared using various percentage of the PVAL fibre. The elastic recovery and elastic performance coefficient (EPC) were measured before and after the dissolution of PVAL for a comparative assessment. Fibre fineness and twist multiplier were also selectively altered to study the effect. The experiments were carried out to study the elastic recovery at 2% and 4% extension, while EPC was calculated using 30% and 50% of breaking load of respective yarns. The t-test result confirmed some significant difference in EPC and recovery behaviour of the yarns on the modification through the removal of PVAL. Fibre fineness and applied twist were found to influence the behaviour. Modified yarns were found to exhibit improved elastic recovery properties.

Keywords: elastic recovery, elastic performance coefficient, polyester and PVAL fibres, ring spun yarn

References

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Univerza v Ljubljani, Naravoslovnotehniška fakulteta, Oddelek za tekstilstvo, Snežniška 5, 1000 Ljubljana

 

Original Scientific Article

Received 9-2014 • Accepted 10-2014

Corresponding author:

Prof. dr. Barbara Simončič

E-mail: barbara.simoncic@ntf.uni-lj.si

 

Abstract

In the research, the influence of dyeing with three reactive dyes Avitera SE, i.e. yellow, red and blue, on the functional properties of cotton fabrics finished with SiO₂ nanoparticles, hydro- and oleophobic finish (FAS) and the combination of both (SiO₂ + FAS) was studied. At the same time, the influence of applied finishes on the colour change of dyed cotton fabrics was studied as well. The presence of different finishes on cotton was studied using scanning electron microscopy (SEM) and Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR). The hydro- and oleophobic properties of undyed and dyed cotton fabrics before and after washing were evaluated by measuring static contact angles of water and n-hexadecane, sliding water angles and estimation of oleophobicity according to AATCC 118-1966 T. The colorimetric properties of samples were studied before and after the application of finishes, after the washing and artificial illumination. The presence of finishes on cotton was confirmed with the FTIR and SEM results. Superhydrophobic properties were obtained in the case of all studied samples and were not affected by previous dyeing. Despite the application of SiO₂ nanoparticles, the samples did not obtain self-cleaning properties. Application of finishes led to oil repellency, which even slightly increased on the previously dyed samples. The finishes showed good washing resistance. The colour of undyed and dyed samples was strongly influenced by the presence of finishes. The FAS finish caused the darkening and yellowing of samples, while the SiO₂ finish influenced the colour change to blue, yellow and red, respectively. The dyed and finished samples had poor light fastness, which was visible from the colour differences results.

Keywords: reactive dyes, SiO₂ nanoparticles, FAS, sol-gel, lotus effect, oleophobicity

 

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¹Pokrajinski muzej Ptuj-Ormož, Muzejski trg 1, 2250 Ptuj

²Univerza v Ljubljani, Naravoslovnotehniška fakulteta, Oddelek za tekstilstvo, Snežniška 5, 1000 Ljubljana

 

Original Scientific Article

Received 9-2014 • Accepted 10-2014

Corresponding author:

Prof. dr. Barbara Simončič

E-mail: barbara.simoncic@ntf.uni-lj.si

 

Abstract

The aim of the research was to examine the influence of the antimicrobial sol-gel finishing based on dimethyl-tetradecil-[3(trimethoxysilyl)propyl] ammonium chloride (Si-QAC ) on the colour and colour fastness of cotton (CO), silk (SE) and wool (WO) fabrics, which are mostly used in the conservation-restoration of historic textiles. The fabric CO was dyed with direct and reactive dyes, and with indigo, the fabric SE was dyed with the metal complex dyes and the fabric WO with the acid dyes. Yellow, red and blue colours were used. The Si-QAC agent was applied in two increasing concentrations. The dyed non-finished and finished samples of fabrics CO, SE and WO were artificially illuminated in Xenotest, and repeatedly washed in Launder-Ometer. Colour differences were determined between illuminated and non-illuminated as well as washed and non-washed samples and consequently statistically evaluated with the multifactor analysis of variance, ANOVA. The results show that the presence of the coating resulted in the colour change of all studied samples. The coating presence significantly impaired the lightfastness of dyeings, but did not significantly affect the washing fastness of dyeings. Colour fastness was importantly influenced by the dye structure.

Keywords: natural fibres, antimicrobial finishing, influence of the coating on colour, washing fastness of dyeings, light fastness of dyeings

 

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¹Istanbul Technical University, Textile Technologies and Design Faculty, Istanbul, Inon. Cad. No. 65, 34437, Turkey

²Pädagogische Hochschule Wien, Institut für Berufsbildung, Mode- und Designpädagogik, Grenzakcerstraße 18, A-1100 Wien, Austria

 

Scientific Review

Received 10-2014 • Accepted 11-2014

Corresponding author:

Assoc. Prof. D.Sc. Simona Jevšnik

E-mail: simonajevsnik@gmail.com

Abstract

3D computer technologies are closely linked to all textile fields ranging from the designing and constructing of fabrics and garments, virtual human body presentations, interactive virtual prototyping to virtual fashion shows and e-trading. This paper offers a review of frequently used methods for fabric simulation. The review is divided into two parts. The first part of the paper comprises currently used techniques, followed by the presentation of basic terms and fabric parameters required for fabric simulations. The second part discusses the approaches and methods for constructing computer models of fabrics. In conclusion, the list of used techniques and parameters for defining a computer fabric model are presented together with given future guidance.

Keywords: CAD/CAM in textiles, fabric simulations, fabric models

 

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¹Busitema University, Uganda, Faculty of Engineering, Department of Textile and Ginning Engineering, P. O. Box 236, Tororo, Busitema, Uganda

²Technical University of Liberec, Faculty of Textile Engineering, Department of Material Engineering, Studentská 2, 461 17 Liberec 1, Czech Republic

 

Original Scientific Article

Received 10-2014 • Accepted 11-2014

Corresponding author:

Samson Rwawiire

E-mail: rbsjunior@gmail.com

 

Abstract

Globally, sustainable materials that are environmentally friendly and the path towards sustainable development are needed. Natural plant fibre utilization in various industries has seen a surge, especially in the automotive sector. Natural fibres such as from Sansevieria and banana pseudostem are readily available and have considerable mechanical properties that make them good candidates for reinforcement epoxy resins. The dynamic mechanical properties (DMA) of Sansevieria (Sansevieria trifasciata) and banana pseudostem (Musa sapientum) woven fibre epoxy composites are discussed. The results show that the optimum temperature range of application of the Sansevieria and banana epoxy composites is up to 50 °C. The glass transition temperature, T_g, obtained from the curves of mechanical damping factor (tan δ) was 100 °C and 120 °C for Sansevieria and banana fibre epoxy composites, respectively.

Keywords: DMA, Sansevieria trifasciata, banana fibre, Musa sapientum, epoxy composite

 

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¹University of Ljubljana, Faculty of Natural Sciences and Engineering, Department of Textiles, Snežniška ulica 5, 1000 Ljubljana
²University of Primorska, Faculty of Humanities, Titov trg 5, 6000 Koper

 

Scientific Review

Received 08-2014 • Accepted 11-2014

Corresponding author:

Tijana Todorović

Tel. 00 386 41 530 780

E-mail: tijanaart@gmail.com

 

Abstract

Clothing presents an inseparable part of the human body. Linking art with clothing synthesizes the spiritual and social nature of human conduct, and it also creates metaphors and symbolic relationships in the anthropogenic environment. The aim of this synthetic view is to help us understand our internal worlds. The body represents the only support or shelter that a person (or humankind) can rely on. Through clothing, a person can make their first step in non-verbal communication towards the world. Clothing not only shows our appearance, but also represents our interior world. We attract attention with the help of our clothing. With apparel, we communicate with others, express acceptance or rejection, or collective attitudes in relation to understanding something that is likeable, sociable, moral etc. Clothing can be interpreted as a transmission of information between a carrier and recipient through symbolic messages in the general or specific scope of the clothing culture. In such open communication, a person creates their individuality through appearance. Messages and information about ourselves are visually sent and received.

Keywords: clothing and its importance, culture, subculture, modern clothing, communication, sign of affiliation, form, function, clothing and semiotics, costume

 

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University of Ljubljana, Faculty of Natural Sciences and Engineering, Department of Textiles, Snežniška 5, 1000 Ljubljana, Slovenia 

Scientific Review
Received 05-2014 • Accepted 07-2014 

Corresponding author:
M.Sc. Špela Udovič
E-mail: spela.udovic1@gmail.com

 

Abstract

This article deals with the issue of viewers’ perception, observation and understanding of certain works of art that can reasonably be linked to the creation of textiles. In this study, we wanted to justify the assumption that the visual structure of a pattern may be comparable to the grammar of some paintings and graphic works. Our viewpoints are based on the postulate that a work of art can be transformed and consequently perceived as a pattern through repeated variations and that the visual expressiveness of a pattern can also achieve the status of a work of art. With the analysis of image areas, we tried to prove that the structure of the visual field is one of the essential factors that affect both the perception of paintings and art matter patterns. The image surface is the fundamental part of the area perceived in the visual system. Every image surface in space can be observed in a visual and artistic way. When an image surface is a part of a work of art, e.g. a pattern or picture, we experience and analyse it from the perspective of art viewing. In artistic terms, the image surface can be perceived as an art surface of paintings, drawings, patterns etc. The aspects of its creation are reflected in the properties of textures, structures, factures, patinas and raster. The features of colour relationships and colour modulation which can be seen in the form of textures and raster are implied by fine art in different models. The halftoning and texturing can connect the patterns of Lia Cook and Ghada Amer textile images, as well as of Victor Vasarely and Bridget Riley paintings. In Riley’s paintings, the textural grammar is highlighted in the shape structures forming the visual field, whereas Ghada Amer also expresses herself through the hapticity of textile materials which are mainly used in the conceptual sense.

Keywords: visual field, surface, texture, raster, pattern, picture

 

References

1. BUTINA, Milan. Prvine likovne prakse. Ljubljana: Debora, 1997.
2. KUMAR, Marko. Tehnologija grafičnih procesov: 3., prenovljena in razširjena izdaja. Ljubljana: Center RS za poklicno izobraževanje, 2008.
3. BRADDOCK, Sarah E. in O’MAHONY, Marie. Techno textiles : revolutionary fabrics for fashion and design. London: Thames and Hudson. 1999.
4. ŠUŠTERŠIČ, Nina, BUTINA, Milan, De GLERIA, Blaž, SKUBIN, Iris in ZORNIK, Klavdij. Likovna teorija : učbenik za likovno teorijo v vzgojnoizobraževalnem programu umetniška gimnazija – likovna smer. Ljubljana: Debora, 2004.
5. KOČEVAR, Tanja Nuša. Vpliv parametrov konstrukcije in kompozicije tkanin na optično mešanje barv na njeni površini : doktorska disertacija. Ljubljana: Univerza v Ljubljani, Naravoslovnotehniška fakulteta, Oddelek za tekstilstvo, 2000.
6. 1000 Patterens. Uredila Drusilla Cole,. London: A & C Black, 2003.
7. SEURAT, Georges Pierre. La Parade. 1887−89 [dostopno na daljavo],[citirano 3.11.2008]. Dostopno na svetovnem spletu: <http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Seurat-La_Parade_detail.jpg>.
8. COOK, Lia, SORKIN, Jenni in TROMBLE, Meredith. Lia Cook. Winchester: Telos Art Publishing, 2002.
9. COOK, Lia. Four by Four. 2007 [dostopno na daljavo],[citirano 3.11.2008]. Dostopno na svetovnem spletu: <https://picasaweb.google.com/johanssonprojects/Thread#5079903373629558594>.
10. COOK, Lia. An investigation: woven faces and neuroscience. Textile Forum, 2011, št. 18(4), 42−43.
11. COOK, Lia. Facing Maze. 2010 [dostopno na daljavo],[citirano 3.11.2008]. Dostopno na svetovnem spletu: <https://www.cca.edu/academics/faculty/lcook>.
12. LEKSIKON slikarstva: A-Ž. Uredil Drago Bajt. Ljubljana: Tehniška založba Slovenije, 1996.
13. SEMENZATO, Camillo. Svet umetnosti. Ljubljana: Mladinska knjiga, 1979.
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15. VASARELY, Victor, Metagalaxie. 1979 [dostopno na daljavo],[citirano 3.11.2008]. Dostopno na svetovnem spletu: <http://www.ebay.de/itm/VICTOR-VASARELY-GROSSE-ORIGINAL-GRAFIK-SERIGRAPHIE-METAGALAXIE-VP-1708-/300928468796>.
16. VASARELY, Victor. Alom, 1966 [dostopno na daljavo],[citirano 3.11.2008]. Dostopno na svetovnem spletu: <http://www.radford.edu/rbarris/Women%20and%20art/post%20abstract%20expressionism%20pt%201.html>.
17. TRSTENJAK, Anton. Psihologija barv. Ljubljana: Inštitut Antona Trstenjaka, 1996.
18. DINTINJANA, Mia. Bridget Riley. Likovne besede : revija za likovno umetnost, 2001, št. 55/56, 50−75.
19. MEDVED Andrej, FER Briony, NANCY, Jean-Luc, GABERŠČIK Boris, PINTER Tihomir, JERAŠA Jaka in LESKOŠEK Ivan. Abstraktno slikarstvo od Mušiča do Rimeleja: abstraktno kot sublimno. Piran: Obalne galerije (Ljubljana: Povše), 2004.
20. RILEY, Bridget,. Arrest 2. 1965 [dostopno na daljavo],[citirano 3.11.2008]. Dostopno na svetovnem spletu: <http://www.op-art.co.uk/op-art-gallery/bridget-riley/bridget-riley-arrest-2-1965>.
21. Contemporary textiles : the fabric of fine art. Uredila Nadine Käthe Monem.  London: Black Dog Publishing, cop., 2008.
22. REILLY, Maura. Ghada Amer. New York: Gregory R. Miller & Co., 2010.
23. AMER, Ghada. Red Strokes on Raw Canvas. 2004 [dostopno na daljavo],[citirano 3.11.2008]. Dostopno na svetovnem spletu: <http://www.elitismstyle.com/blogazine/wp-content/uploads/2011/01/ghada-amer-red-strokes1.jpg>.
24. NAKAMURA, Shigeki. Pattern sourcebook : around the world : 250 patterns for projects and designs. Beverly: Rockport Publishers, 2008.
25. UDOVIČ, Špela, KOVAČEV, Asja Nina, RODICA, Barbara. Raziskava semantičnih razsežnosti oblik in barv v vzorcu »Wild Rose«. Tekstilec, 2013, 56(3), 207−221.

 

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University of Ljubljana, Faculty of Natural Sciences and Engineering, Department of Textiles, Snežniška 5, 1000 Ljubljana, Slovenia 

Original Scientific Article
Received 04-2014 • Accepted 07-2014 

Corresponding author:
Assis. Prof. D.Sc. Dejana Javoršek
Tel.: 00386 1 200 32 65
E-mail: dejana.javorsek@ntf.uni-lj.si 

 

Abstract

Colour management is the basic method which guarantees the optimal appearance of colour on computer displays in digital prepress. The aim of this research was to determine whether it is possible to predict the appearance of colour on a wide gamut display using chromatic adaptation transforms when changing the display white point from 6500 K to the following values of the colour temperature of the display white point: 5000 K, 5500 K, 7000 K, 7500 K and 9300 K. For a colour adaptation, three chromatic adaptation transforms were used, i.e. bradford, von Kries and XYZ Scaling model. The measurements obtained at 6500 K white point were used as reference to calculate the adapted colour values for the remaining five white points. Finally, the colour differences between the measured and adapted colour values for each white point were calculated to evaluate the performance of each chromatic adaptation transform. The results of calculated colour differences showed small colour differences (values below 3) for a large number of colour patches for all white point pairs; in consequence, it was confirmed that it is possible to satisfactory predict the appearance of colour on a display using chromatic adaptation transforms. The best results were obtained with the XYZ Scaling model, the von Kries model also gave good results, whereas the bradford model gave contrary to expectations the worst results. It was also confirmed that the values of colour differences increase relative to the rise of colour differences between the source and destination white point, as the biggest colour difference was observed between 6500 K and 9300 K white points and the smallest between 6500 K and 7000 K. The research also showed that different chromatic adaptation transforms adapt the colour values of different colours well in respect to their lightness, chroma and hue.

Keywords: display, chromatic adaptation, XYZ Scaling model, bradford model, von Kries model

 

References

1. FAIRCHILD, Mark D. Color appearance models. Second edition. Chichester: John Wiley & Sons, 2006. 385 str.
2. SIST ISO 12646:2010/Dod 1:2014 Grafična tehnologija – Zasloni za barvno preskušanje – Značilnosti in pogoji za vizualno opazovanje – Dodatek 1. 18 str.
3. Chromatic adaptation. V Wikipedija: the free encyclopedia [dostopno na daljavo]. Obnovjeno 21. maj 2013 [citirano 23. 6. 2013]. Dostopno na svetovnem spletu: <https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chromatic_adaptation>.
4. Digital color imaging handbook. Uredil Gaurav Sharma. Boca Raton [etc.]: CRC Press, 2003, 56−57.
5. FINLAYSON, Graham D. in SÜSSTRUNK, Sabine. Spectral sharpening and the Bradford transform [dostopno na daljavo]. Obnovljeno 7. julij 2011 [citirano 15. 7. 2013]. Dostopno na svetovnem spletu: <http://infoscience.epfl.ch/record/34077/files/FinlaysonS00.pdf>.
6. SÜSSTRUNK, Sabine, HOLMB, Jack in FINLAYSON, Graham D. Chromatic adaptation performance of different RGB sensors [dostopno na daljavo]. Obnovljeno 9. julij 2011 [citirano 20. 6 2013]. Dostopno na svetovnem spletu: <http://infoscience.epfl.ch/record/34049/files/SusstrunkFH01.pdf>.
7. ĐORĐEVIĆ, Dejana, JAVORŠEK, Andrej in HLADNIK, Aleš. Primerjava CMCCAT2000 in bradfordskega modela kromatične prilagoditve. Tekstilec, 2009, 52(4−6), 91−101.
8. ĐORĐEVIĆ, Dejana, JAVORŠEK, Andrej in HLADNIK, Aleš. Performance of five chromatic adaptation transforms using large number of color patches. Acta graphica, 2009, 20(1/4), 9−19.
9. ĐORĐEVIĆ, Dejana, JAVORŠEK, Andrej in HLADNIK, Aleš. Comparison of chromatic adaptation transforms used in textile printing sample preparation. Coloration Technology, 2010, 126(5), 275−281, http://dx.doi.org/10.1111/j.1478-4408.2010.00258.x.
10. WESTLAND, Stephen in RIPAMONTI, Caterina. Computational color science: using matlab. Chichester: John Wiley & Sons, 2004. 207 str.
11. LINDBLOOM, Bruce. Bruce Lindbloom.com [dostopno na daljavo]. Obnovljeno 24. marec 2008 [citirano 12. 7. 2013]. Dostopno na svetovnem spletu: <http://www.brucelindbloom.com/>.
12. KATOH, Naoya in NAKABAYASHI, Kiyotaka Applying mixed adaptation to various chromatic adaptation transformation (CAT) models [dostopno na daljavo]. Obnovljeno 18. oktober 2011 [citirano 7. 7. 2013]. Dostopno na svetovnem spletu: <http://pdf.aminer.org/000/540/731/applying_mixed_adaptation_to_various_chromatic_adaptation
    _transformation_cat_models.pdf>.
13. CIE 15:2004. 3rd edition. Technical report. Colorimetry. Washington, D.C.: International Commission on Illumination, 2004, 71 str.
14. HUNT, Robert W. in POINTER, Michael R. Measuring Colour: Fourth Edition. Chichester : John Wiley & Sons, 2011. 469 str.
15. User requirements for a flat panel display (FPD) as master monitor in an HDTV programme production environment (2008). [dostopno na daljavo]. BT Series, Broadcasting service (television). Report ITU-R BT.2129 (05/2009) [citirano 2. 8. 2013]. Dostopno na svetovnem spletu: <http://www.itu.int/dms_pub/itu-r/opb/rep/R-REP-BT.2129-2008-PDF-E.pdf>.
16. Altering color dramatically with a single setting : examining color temperature on an LCD monitor. EIZO Corporation [dostopno na daljavo]. Obnovljeno 30. marec 2009 [citirano 22. 7. 2013]. Dostopno na svetovnem spletu: <http://www.eizo.com/global/library/basics/color_temperature_on_an_LCD_monitor/>.
17. PASCALE, Dänny. A Review of RGB color spaces …from xyY to R’G’B’. Montreal: The BabelColor [dostopno na daljavo]. Obnovljeno 10. januar 2011 [citirano 26. 6. 2013]. Dostopno na svetovnem spletu: <http://www.babelcolor.com/download/A%20review%20of%20RGB%20color%20spaces.pdf>.
18. SIST ISO 3664:2011 Grafična tehnologija in fotografija – Pogoji za vizualno opazovanje. 33 str.
19. BRAČKO, Sabina in ĐORĐEVIĆ, Dejana. Merjenje barv : vaje. Ljubljana: Naravoslovnotehniška fakulteta, Oddelek za tekstilstvo, 43 str.

 

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University of Ljubljana, Faculty of Natural Sciences and Engineering, Department of Textiles, Snežniška 5, 1000 Ljubljana, Slovenia 

Original Scientific Article
Received 04-2014 • Accepted 07-2014 

Corresponding author:
D.Sc. Tanja Podbevšek
E-mail: tanja.podbevsek@ntf.uni-lj.si

 

Abstract

The aim of this study was to compare the back length distances (BacLen) from contemporary construction systems with the measured back length distances of the Slovenian young female population to establish which back length presented in different contemporary construction systems fits best to the body dimension of a specific target market group. 160 female students (aged between 19 and 27 years) from the University of Ljubljana (Slovenia) volunteered for the study. The results showed that the measured back length distances differed significantly from those obtained from the tables of contemporary construction systems or calculated as a secondary measure according to these systems. The measured BacLen distances were the same in all size groups and did not increase as did with all analyzed contemporary construction systems. The range of measured BacLen distances inside each size group was substantial (33−43 cm) and the measured BacLen distances were not in correlation with the body height, bust girth and in consequence nor with the calculated BacLen distances. In conclusion, the values for back length distances as proposed by different contemporary construction systems differ significantly from the measured ones in the young Slovenian female population. We thus suggest including back length distance as a directly measured parameter for a pattern block construction when producing made-to-measure clothes.

Keywords: pattern construction, anthropometric measurements, back length, dress, basic pattern block

 

References

1. ALEXANDER, Marina, CONNELL, Lenda Jo and PRESLEY Ann Beth. Clothing fit preferences of young female adult customers. International Journal of Clothing and Technology, 2005, 17 (1), 52−64, http://dx.doi.org/10.1108/09556220510577961.
2. PODBEVŠEK, Tanja. Market segmentation in the light of clothing anthropometry. In: 5th World Textile Conference AUTEX 2005, 27-29 June 2005, Portorož, Slovenia. Ed. Alenka MAJCEN LE MARECHAL et al. Proceedings. Maribor: Faculty of Mechanical Engineering, Department of Textiles, 2005, str. 671-676.
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¹University of Banja Luka, Faculty of Technology, V. Stepe Stepanovića 73, Banja Luka, Republic Srpska, Bosnia and Herzegovina
²University of Primorska, Faculty of design, Prevale 10, 1236 Trzin, Slovenia
³Istanbul Technical University, Faculty of Textile Technologies and Design, İnönü Caddesi, Carigrad, Turkey 

Original Scientific Article
Received 05-2014 • Accepted 07-2014 

Corresponding author:
Assis. Prof. D.Sc. Dragana Grujić
E-mail: dragana.grujic@unibl.rs

 

Abstract

People with increased secretion of sweat constantly deal with the problem of sweating already at low physical strain in various environmental conditions and seek solutions to achieve the desired thermal comfort of garments. Appropriate thermal comfort when wearing clothes can be achieved only with a suitable choice of textiles, an appropriate clothing design and the construction of clothing cutting patterns constituting the garment. This research hence focuses on the influence of fibre composition of knitted clothes and the design of men’s sports T-shirts on the thermal physiological comfort of clothes during the process of wearing in terms of thermal and sorption properties. Important parameters to determine thermal comfort are the amount of secreted sweat and the amount of sweat absorbed by clothes. The amount of secreted sweat is influenced by climatic conditions, physical activity of a person and their tendency to perspiration, whereas the amount of sweat absorbed by clothes is influenced by the thermal and sorption properties of knitted clothes, as well as by the openness of clothing. The latter enables ventilation, resulting in a more efficient heat exchange between the body and environment. For the purpose of this research, we tested the following knitted clothes parameters: thermal conductivity (l), air permeability (Q), water vapour permeability (WVP) and the ability to retain water (WRV). The influence of cuts of men’s T-shirts made from knitted fabrics of various fibre composition on the ventilation and comfort was tested on the basis of the amount of secreted sweat (E_sw) during the process of wearing as a physiological parameter of a person and the amount of sweat accumulated in the T-shirt (W_sw) as the parameter of knitted clothes sorption properties. The results showed that the fibre composition of knitted clothes and the design of a sports T-shirt substantially influence the amount of sweat accumulated in the T-shirt and in consequence, the comfort during the process of wearing.

Keywords: sportswear, clothing ventilation, thermal comfort, sweat accumulation

  

References

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¹Titera, d. o. o., Obrtna ulica 40, 9000 Murska Sobota, Slovenia
²Prevent&Deloza, d. o. o., Kosova ulica 14, 3000 Celje, Slovenia 

Short Scientific Article
Received 07-2014 • Accepted 08-2014 

Corresponding author:
Assoc. Prof. D.Sc. Daniela Zavec Pavlinić
Tel.: 00386 31 307 728
E-mail: info@titerad.com

 

Abstract

Working in hot environments usually includes the presence of several different negative influences from the environment from which it is necessary to protect the human being; therefore, it is necessary that the personal protective equipment is carefully planned. In addition to the protective functions, the possibility of cooling a person at the microenvironment level of personal protective equipment must be considered. It is important to know the options and concepts of cooling in a hot environment to prevent overheating and to increase operational efficiency in prescribed time. There are different systems for cooling down; they differ in their performance over time and in their functionality. This article deals with the passive system for cooling down which was implemented in a manufactured shirt. The passive system in a form of a non-woven fleece material, was distributed across the surface of a T-shirt on the upper chest and back parts. Non-woven fleece with hydrocrystalls in contact with cold water swells and in that state cools down a person or keeps their skin temperature at normal levels. The lower part of the shirt was made of a polyester air-netted material. Thus, we tested a T-shirt with 16 test subjects during intense training on a ski-simulator. We were interested in the cooling performance and functionality of the product. To the end, the temperature was measured using a thermal camera, while the functionality was evaluated with a subjective evaluation. The results showed differences in temperature before and after the exercise, which confirms the cooling effect. The results obtained by the subjective evaluation led us further to the optimization of the product from the perspective of a different distribution of fleece material for cooling down over the surface of T-shirts. However, the cooling mechanisms required for a short period of time are substantially different than those used in cooling at longer-lasting activities.

Keywords: hot environment, human cooling concepts, hydrocrystals, personal protective equipment

  

References

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University of Ljubljana, Faculty of Natural Sciences and Engineering, Department of Textiles, Snežniška 5, SI-1000 Ljubljana

Scientific Review
Received 03-2014 • Accepted 03-2014

Corresponding author:
dr. Tanja Podbevšek
E-mail: tanja.podbevsek@ntf.uni-lj.si

 

Abstract

A clothing pattern construction system is indispensable in every garment producing company. Using one of the so-called traditional systems is still very common in practice. Such a system includes complete instructions for the development of pattern parts of a garment from two-dimensional textile surfaces which more or less fits the body of the wearer. There are many contemporary construction systems on the market. Slovenian garment producing companies mostly use one of the German systems (Müller’s system) while the German ready-to-wear industry uses several different systems, which are also different from those used in Great Britain, Italy, Hungary etc. The paper offers a comparison of traditional clothing pattern construction systems from different authors. The specified comparison is drawn in the field of anthropometric measurement methods, designations of sizes/measurement tables, equations for calculating secondary measures, and methods of a clothing pattern construction that can be seen in different pattern cuts and their fittings to the physical dimensions of the body. The observed differences are abundant, substantial, and significant. The future pattern construction systems will include a computer-aided design based on the data gathered with 3D electronic body scanners. Such scanners enable faster and more complex data collection of body dimensions, body shapes and postures of potential garment consumers and consequently provide better garment fit to customers’ bodies.

Keywords: pattern construction systems, development of basic clothing pattern block, clothing anthropometry, measurement table, pattern development methods

 

References

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2. PODBEVŠEK, Tanja. Garment anthropometry – a challenge for the future. V 2nd International Textile, Clothing & Design Conference : Book of Proceedings. Editor Z. Dragčević. Dubrovnik : Faculty of Textile Tehnology, University of Zagreb, 2004, 574–579.
3. PODBEVŠEK, Tanja. Pattern construction of the skirt as related to the female body shape. V 2nd International Textile, Clothing & Design Conference : Book of Proceedings. Editor Z. Dragčević. Dubrovnik : Faculty of Textile Tehnology, University of Zagreb, 2004, 568−573.
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8. SONG, Hwa Kyung, ASHDOWN, P. Susan. Categorization of lower body shapes for adult females based on multiple view analysis. Textile Research Journal, 2011, 81(9), 914−931, doi: 10.1177/0040517510392448.
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27. STIEGLER, Margarete, KROOLOPP Luise. Schnittkonstruktionen für Jacken und Mäntel. München : Rundschau-Verlag Otto G. Königer GmbH & Co., 1994, 112.
28. UJEVIĆ, Darko, ROGALE, Dubravko, HRASTINSKI, Marijan, GERŠAK, Jelka, DRAGČEVIĆ, Zvonko, ESERT, Mario, KOREN, Tomislav. Tehnike konstruiranja i modeliranja odjeće. Zagreb : Tekstilno-tehnološki fakultet Sveučilišta u Zagrebu, 2000, 338.
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33. PODBEVŠEK, Tanja. Comparison of the Pattern construction of the female blouse by two contemporary construction systems. V 5th International Conference IN-TECH-ED ’05 : Book of Proceedings. Budapest : Budapest Tech, Rejtő Sándor Faculty of Light Industry Engineering, 2005, 367–374.
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¹University of Boras, The Swedish School of Textiles, Bryggaregatan 17, 501 90 Boras, Sweden
²University of Boras, School of Engineering, Allegatan 1, 501 90 Boras, Sweden
³PoliMaT, Centre of Excellence for Polymer Materials and Technologies, Tehnološki park 24, 1000 Ljubljana
⁴University of Maribor, Faculty of Mechanical Engineering, Institute of Engineering Materials and Design, Smetanova 17, 2000 Maribor

Original Scientific Paper
Received 02-2014 • Accepted 02-2014

Corresponding author:
Prof. Dr. Sc. Bojana Vončina
E-mail: bojana.voncina@um.si

 

Abstract

World is facing numerous environmental challenges, one of them being the increasing pollution both in the atmosphere and landfills. After the goods have been used, they are either buried or burnt. Both ways of disposal are detrimental and hazardous to the environment. The term biodegradation is becoming more and more important, as it converts materials into water, carbon dioxide and biomass, which present no harm to the environment. Nowadays, a lot of research is performed on the development of biodegradable polymers, which can “vanish” from the Earth surface after being used. In this respect, this research work was conducted in order to study the biodegradation phenomenon of cellulosic and non-cellulosic textile materials when buried in soil, for them to be used in our daily lives with maximum efficiency and after their use, to be disposed of easily with no harmful effects to the environment. This research indicates the time span of the use life of various cellulosic and non-cellulosic materials such as cotton, jute, linen, flax, wool when used for the reinforcement of soil. The visual observations and applied microscopic methods revealed that the biodegradation of cellulose textile materials proceeded in a similar way as for non-cellulosic materials, the only difference being the time of biodegradation. The non-cellulosic textile material (wool) was relatively more resistant to microorganisms due to its molecular structure and surface.

Keywords: biodegradation, composting, natural textile materials, FT-IR

 

References

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Technical University of Liberec, Faculty of Textile Engineering, Department of Clothing Technology, Liberec, Czech Republic

Original Scientific Paper
Received 02-2014 • Accepted 04-2014 

Corresponding author:
Ph.D. Viera Glombikova, Ing. Bc
Tel.: +420 485353124
E-mail: viera.glombikova@tul.cz

 

Abstract

This study deals with the effect of dye-sublimation printing on the performance of underwear. Two groups of polyester knitted fabrics were analysed. The change of tree selected groups of properties was investigated before and after the application of dye-sublimation printing, namely durability (breaking force and elongation, abrasion resistance and pilling resistance), physiological properties (water vapour permeability, air permeability) and colour-fastness (resistance to rubbing, to domestic and commercial laundering, to perspiration). Further, the structure changes of fabrics (thickness and density) during heat pressing both without application of dyes (without transfer printing on material) and with application of dyes were also studied to analyse the affect extent of printing conditions (particularly pressure and temperature) on total wear comfort printed fabrics. The results show that the tested materials meet requirements in terms of colour-fastness to rubbing, to domestic and commercial laundering and to perspiration to a very high standard (grade 5). In terms of abrasion resistance and pilling resistance the material also showed high resistance. The air permeability for both fabrics decreased by about 40% in comparison with the value obtained before printing and the mechanical properties slightly increased (about 8%). This was due to an increase in the stitch density and a decrease in the thickness, therefore reducing the porosity of the material for printing conditions, mainly due to the influence of the pressure and temperature within the heat press machine.

Keywords: dye-sublimation printing, underwear, physiological comfort, colour-fastness, mechanical properties, structure changes

 

References

1. Advanced Innovative Technologies. Heat transfer printing – sublimation [dostopno na daljavo], [citirano 04. 07. 2013]. Dostopno na svetovnem spletu: <http://www.aitequipment.com/cgi-bin/db_searchz.cgi?database=dbpg_contactus.exm&template=dbpg_contactus_tmplt.htm&0=1>.
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16. GLOMBIKOVA, Viera, KOMARKOVA, Petra. To investigate the effect of dye-sublimation printing on the performance of underwear. V 8^th International Conference TEXCI 2013. TU Liberec, Czech Republic, 2013.

 

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¹ University of Maribor, Faculty of Mechanical Engineering, Smetanova 17, SI-2000 Maribor
² IOS, Ltd., Institute for environmental protection and sensors, Beloruska 7, SI-2000 Maribor

Scientific Review
Received 01-2014 • Accepted 04-2014 

Corresponding author:
Prof. Dr. Aleksandra Lobnik
Tel.: +386 2 220 79 12
E-mail: lobnikaleksandra@gmail.com

 

Abstract

In the last decade, the advancement of nanotechnology and its application in several areas has been encouraging the global competition, and many industries need innovative solutions in order to provide better performance and enhanced value to their products. The development of high-functional nanomaterials represents a powerful source of potential innovation and progress in the European textile industry, which can only compete with the rest of the world with the products with added value. The development of functional and smart textiles with built-in advanced high-functional nanomaterials presents an important market niche with a high amount of built-in knowledge and use of modern technologies. The use of high-functional nanomaterials in textiles gives the new desired specific functional properties that can enhance the comfort and quality of life, safety, and can ease the control of health. Despite the fact that advanced high-functional nano-textile products give new functions, they shall keep all the essential features of textiles, such as wearability, flexibility, softness, elasticity, lightness, washability etc. Today, the textile industry mainly uses high-functional inorganic and polymeric nanoparticles, nanostructured materials, nanocomposites and nanofibres to achieve the functional properties such as antistatic, antimicrobial, self-cleaning, reinforcement etc. In this paper, we present in detail the nanomaterials that are most commonly used for the development of functional textiles with the emphasis on hydrophobic and hydrophilic properties, textiles with improved colouring and with increased resistance to colour fading, textiles used for UV-protection and fire-resistant textiles.

Keywords: nanomaterials, hydrophobic textiles, hydrophilic textiles, UV-protective textiles, flame retardant textiles, superhydrophobicity

 

References

 

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University of Ljubljana, Faculty of Natural Sciences and Engineering, Department of Textiles, SI-1000 Ljubljana 

Original Scientific Paper
Received 04-2014 • Accepted 05-2014 

Corresponding author:
Prof. Dr. Tadeja Muck
Tel.: +386 1 200 32 84
E-mail: tadeja.muck@gmail.com

 

Abstract

The research focuses on the area of interactive radio frequency identification technology (RFID) and its use in the tagging of textile and garments. The research aim was to take into consideration the influence of water and water-repellent finishing in a real environment on the operability of passive ultra-high frequency (UHF) RFID tags on different types of fabric. The tags reading rate on dry, wet, non-repellent and water-repellent finished cotton and polyester fabrics was studied. The water- and oil-repellent nanocomposite sol-gel finishing with fluorocarbon functional precursors was applied on fabrics as well as on tags. The reading frequency depending on the distance between an RFID tag or tags, respectively, fixed on fabrics and the reader antenna was measured. It was found that water has a negative impact on the reading rate of UHF RFID tags, since it absorbs the radio frequency waves. Wetting has a larger effect on cotton than on polyester fabrics. The tags positioned on the first fabric layer show the best results. The positioning of three tags successively one after another between layers of fabric causes a shadowing effect and reduction of reading rate and reading accuracy. With the application of the water and oil-repellent nanocomposite sol-gel finishing, the effect of wetting is reduced and consequently, tags responsiveness increases. It was also found out that finishing has a positive impact on the tag readability in the near field, i.e. on average the maximum reading length, as it has on the increase of tag responsiveness if they are positioned successively on the fabrics in the manner of overlapping.

Keywords: UHF RFID tag, Gen 2 standard, water- and oil-repellent finishing, cotton fabric, polyester fabric

 

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Technical University of Liberec, Faculty of Textile Engineering, Department of Clothing Technology, Liberec, Czech Republic

 

Original Scientific Paper
Received/12-2013 • Accepted/01-2014

 

Corresponding author:
Ph.D. Viera Glombikova, Ing.
Telephone: +420 485 353 124
E-mail: viera.glombikova@tul.cz

 

Abstract

Porosity represents one of the parameters of knitted fabrics, which significantly affects their air permeability and thus the overall physiological comfort of knitted clothes. X-ray computed microtomography (µCT) is a relatively new but not yet widely used method for studying textile porosity. The paper discusses the use of a 3D image of the textile structure obtained by applying μCT in the textile metrology. Specifically, it deals with the analysis of options for determining the 3D porosity of knitted fabric by μCT and subsequent analysis of the relationship of porosity versus the fabric permeability to air. The first part of the article was aimed to analyse the suitability of application of µCT to determine the 3D porosity of textile materials and determination of appropriate measurement conditions. Obtained porosity data measured by the 3D device SkyScan 1174 was compared to the porosity calculated by the standard mathematical model. The research results show that μCT system is suitable alternative method for 3D porosity measurement. There is very small difference (about 6%) between the percentage of the air volume of the examined knitted fabric obtained by µCT (64.6%) and porosity expressed through the volume fraction by standard mathematical model (70.6%). The last part analyses the dependent relationship between porosity of the knitted structures obtained by using μCT SkyScan 1174 and air permeability measured on FX device 3300 according to EN ISO 9237. Analysis between air permeability and measured porosity of others knitted structures verified correctness of suggested measurement process of 3D porosity.

Keywords: micro CT, 3D porosity, knitted fabric, air permeability, 3D model of knitted fabric

 

References

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10. OGULATA, R. Tugrul, MAVRUZ, Serin. Investigation of porosity and air permeability values of plain knitted fabrics. Fibres & Textiles In Eastern Europe, 2010, 18(5), 71–75, <http://www.tandfonline.com/doi/abs/10.1080/00405000903474907#.UywHbfldVL4>.
11. KAŤUCH, Peter, ŽIVČÁK, Jozef. Priemyselná tomografia. Nový rozmer v metrológii. 2010, [online], [21.6.2013]. Available on: <http://web.tuke.sk/smetrologia/podklady/metro2010.pdf>.
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13. NECKÁŘ, Bohuslav, DAS, Dipayan. Theory of structure and mechanics of fibrous assemblies. Woodhead Publishing Limited, 2012, 310, <http://dx.doi.org/10.1533/9780857093028>.
14. ČUDEN PAVKO, Alenka. Parameters of compact single weft knitted structure (Part 1): Loop modules and munden constants – State of research. Tekstilec, 2010, 53(7−9), 205–214, [online], [19.11.2013]. Available on: <http://www.tekstilec.si/wp-content/uploads/2010/08/Parametri-zbitega-levo-desnega-pletiva-1.-del_moduli-zanke-in-Mundenove-konstante-%E2%80%93-stanje-raziskav.pdf>.

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¹ University of Ljubljana, Faculty of Natural Sciences and Engineering, Department of Textiles, Snežniška 5, 1000 Ljubljana

²Acourt Expert and Valuer for Textile and Leather-Fur Field, Brezovica pri Dobu 12A, 1233 Dob

³City of Ljubljana, Department Department for Commercial Activities and Traffic, Trg MDB 7, 1000 Ljubljana

 

Original Scientific Paper
Received 02-2014 • Accepted 02-2014

 

Corresponding author:
izr. prof. dr. Urška Stankovič Elesini
Telephone: +386 1 200 32 29
E-mail: urska.stankovic@ntf.uni-lj.si

 

 Abstract

Depending on their expectations about the product, consumers can be satisfied, dissatisfied or impressed when they purchase a product. When they are dissatisfied with the product, they have the right to complain. They can enforce their rights from clerical errors. If the fault is not contested, companies must meet the consumers’ demands. If the fault is contested and the company does not recognize it, the consumers must decide whether to continue with the process of complaint. Ten hypotheses concerning the complaint procedure were developed in this research. They were made on the primary and secondary data basis. The primary data were obtained from long experienced work within the Textile and Leather Development Monitoring Committee. The hypotheses cover the consumers’ knowledge about the rights arising from clerical errors, the reasons for complaints and dealing with the question of why consumers in solving complaints do not turn to third parties more often, especially when a company does not react to the consumer’s complaint, leading to the consumer disagreeing with such a solution. The data for verifying the hypotheses were obtained by means of an online questionnaire. To verify the hypothesis of equal probability and the hypothesis of independence, the Pearson’s χ2 test was used. The Cochran Q test was used when several answers were possible. On the basis of accepted/rejected hypotheses and corresponding findings, the algorithm for solving complaints was developed. The algorithm specifies the procedure of solving complaints in a demonstrable and understandable way.

Keywords: consumer, complaint, third-party, questionnaire, algorithm

 

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University of Ljubljana, Faculty of Natural Sciences and Engineering, Department of Textiles, Snežniška 5, 1000 Ljubljana

 

Original Scientific Paper
Received 11-2013 • Accepted 01-2014

 

 Corresponding author:
prof. dr. Petra Forte Tavčer
Telephone: +3861 200 32 93
E-mail: petra.forte@ntf.uni-lj.si

 

 Abstract

The aim of the study was to examine the influence of various protective finishes on the visual properties of anaglyph images and CMYK primary colours digitally printed on a cotton fabric. Using the impregnation process, one-component water- and oil-repellent, and flame retardant finishes, as well as their combination were subsequently applied on the printed samples. A visual evaluation was determined for the 3D visual effect of printed samples before and after the finishing, one and five washings, and after seventy-two hours of exposure to artificial light. The colour fastness of prints after repeated washing, exposure to artificial light, dry and wet rubbing was determined. The repellence properties of studied finishes were studied by measuring the contact angles of water and n-hexadecane, while the vertical flammability test was used for the determination of flame retardancy. The wash fastness of the studied finishes was also taken into observation. The results showed that the presence of finishes changed the colour properties of prints; however, it did not impair the 3D effect of the anaglyph image, which was maintained even after repeated washings and exposure to artificial light. The presence of finishes improved the wash fastness of the M and Y colour, and impaired the wash fastness of the C and K colour. The light fastness of unfinished printed samples was poor, but it improved for the M, Y and K colours after the application of finishes. The prints did not influence the functional repellent and flame retardant properties. However, the impaired wash fastness of finishes was observed.

Keywords: cotton fabric, digital printing, anaglyph images, 3D effects, colour fastness, influence of finish

 

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University of Ljubljana, Faculty of Natural Sciences and Engineering, Department of Textiles, Snežniška 5, 1000 Ljubljana

 

Original Scientific Paper
Received 10-2013 • Accepted 02-2014

 

Corresponding author:
prof. dr. Petra Forte Tavčer
Telephone: +3861 200 32 93
E-mail: petra.forte@ntf.uni-lj.si

 

Abstract

Conservation of natural resources, a reduction of harmful effects of waste generation, reduced need for landfill space related with the payment of environmental taxes, creation of new “green” jobs together with the supply of low-cost materials – all that can be a result of organized, efficient waste collection, which enables reuse and recycling processes. A separate waste collection means a professional and thoughtful collection, which prevents landfilling of materials due to the leakage of potentially hazardous substances into the environment, e.g. landfill gas, drainage waters, dust and odour, posing a threat to the environment. Therefore, the EU has issued a directive which requires a separate collection of textile waste in designated containers located in assembly centres. The assembly centres are facilities arranged for receiving waste, including their preliminary sorting and storage for the purposes of transportation to a waste treatment facility. This paper presents the quantity, type and waste management of clothing and textiles collected in the assembly centres in Slovenia in 2012. The data were collected using a descriptive method (personal interviews and an online questionnaire) and were evaluated using descriptive statistics. The study includes 54 of jointly 59 (n = 54) respondents, administrators of assembly centres in Slovenia. The largest share of the assembly centres collects clothing and textiles (78%), while a small proportion of them (15%) collects clothing only and an even smaller (2%) proportion of them stopped collecting textile waste. In 2012, an average assembly centre in Slovenia collecting clothes and textiles (n = 43) collected approximately 15 tons of waste clothing and textiles. Furthermore, the assembly centres collecting clothes only collected approximately 4 tons of waste clothing. The majority of respondents rated the collected clothes of higher quality compared to the collected textiles. Among the clothes, T-shirts, shirts and outerwear were collected to the largest extent, while among the textiles, the mattresses and bedding. The vast majority of respondents believed that the collected textiles have an economic value and that the interest in taking over the waste already exists. In this paper, the quantity, type and further treatment of waste clothing and textiles collected at the assembly centres is examined.

Keywords: post-consumer textile waste-quantity, type, further treatment, assembly centres, waste clothes, waste textiles, textile waste collection

 

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